UNEVEN LIFTER WEAR
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UNEVEN LIFTER WEAR
I am new to this forum. So excuse me if this question has already been asked. I have uneven lifter wear on the #1 cylinder in my 460. Turns out the intake lifter is about 3/8's worn and at an angle as compared to the normal looking exhaust lifterI just put these in about 50 miles ago. Any ideas from this group as to what maybe the cause?
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 14,333
Likes: 247
From: Stanley, VA
Modern oils suck. To keep the EPA happy, the oil companies have removed phosphorus and zinc from the oil. These are both extreme pressure additives. Modern engines with roller tappets can get by without any problems but our engines with flat tappets need the EP additives or else, well you just saw the results.
You need to use an oil that still has the EP additives or add them yourself to the oil.
Competition Cams has a good write up about this on their website.
Also, here are a couple of pictures of a lifter from another FTE member. This was also a low mileage engine.
You need to use an oil that still has the EP additives or add them yourself to the oil.
Competition Cams has a good write up about this on their website.
Also, here are a couple of pictures of a lifter from another FTE member. This was also a low mileage engine.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 279
Likes: 8
That is a bummer, the cam will need to be replaced, mike is right, modern oils have no zinc or any of the additives that will help keep a flat tappet cam alive, the only oil I know of that has it is that expensive Joe Gibbs stuff, it's just for those cams. I have read alot about EOS additive and will try it when I have to rebuild my engine.
When you replace the cam, consider high quality cam break in lube, and EOS with non synthetic oil, or Gibbs "BR" break in oil, and if you have heavy valve springs for a performance cam, take out the inner and run it till its broke in and install them back, and what ever you do, once you get it started dont let it fall below 2000 RPM for 30 minutes and dont rev it. You should not have any more lifters that look like that. Just my 2 cents, good luck.
When you replace the cam, consider high quality cam break in lube, and EOS with non synthetic oil, or Gibbs "BR" break in oil, and if you have heavy valve springs for a performance cam, take out the inner and run it till its broke in and install them back, and what ever you do, once you get it started dont let it fall below 2000 RPM for 30 minutes and dont rev it. You should not have any more lifters that look like that. Just my 2 cents, good luck.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 279
Likes: 8
I should have also said there is alot of metal in your pan, and your oil pump has sucked up the smaller particles, it may be badly scored, if this is a fresh engine you might want to clean out the pan and check the pump, good luck.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 1
From: Axtell, TX
That is a bummer, the cam will need to be replaced, mike is right, modern oils have no zinc or any of the additives that will help keep a flat tappet cam alive, the only oil I know of that has it is that expensive Joe Gibbs stuff, it's just for those cams. I have read alot about EOS additive and will try it when I have to rebuild my engine.
When you replace the cam, consider high quality cam break in lube, and EOS with non synthetic oil, or Gibbs "BR" break in oil, and if you have heavy valve springs for a performance cam, take out the inner and run it till its broke in and install them back, and what ever you do, once you get it started dont let it fall below 2000 RPM for 30 minutes and dont rev it. You should not have any more lifters that look like that. Just my 2 cents, good luck.
When you replace the cam, consider high quality cam break in lube, and EOS with non synthetic oil, or Gibbs "BR" break in oil, and if you have heavy valve springs for a performance cam, take out the inner and run it till its broke in and install them back, and what ever you do, once you get it started dont let it fall below 2000 RPM for 30 minutes and dont rev it. You should not have any more lifters that look like that. Just my 2 cents, good luck.
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Joined: Mar 2011
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re: UNEVEN LIFTER WEAR
Thanks for the feedback fellas. I had to replace a lifter in #8 about three weeks ago and decided to change out all the lifters while I was in there. Now three weeks later the engine developed a vacuum leak at the front that when I noticed the "lifter knock". So I checked it out. So guys suggest changing out the cam and new lifters, well ok. Thanks for the advice fellas.
LEDFOOT70
LEDFOOT70
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Joined: May 2010
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From: Florida
I am afraid i have the same problem, just changed cam and lifters, engine ran fine before changing cam, runs good when cold, after it is hot it has a miss. I have pulled my hair trying to figure this problem, so i took it to a professional. They are not 100% sure yet but maybe leaning toward the cam and lifters are bad due to the oil.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 1
From: Axtell, TX
You MUST use the cam break in lube along with the use of an oil with 1200ppm of zddp for a hydraulic flat tappet cam. When you crank it for the first time bring the rpm up to 2000. Cycle a slow acceleration/deceleration between 2 and 3000rpm for 20-30min. If you have to cut it off for any reason, upon restart immeidately bring the rpms back up until break in is completed. Failure to do this will land you right back where you started.
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