Oil leak
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,115
Likes: 115
From: Chico, Ca.
Oil leak
I've got a 65 F250 with a 352fe and mx com with oil leaks. The trans and starter are coated in oil, which seems to be coming from the rear of the engine where the head meets the block. The leak is at each corner of the block near the firewall. Is this a head gasket problem? Thanks.
Kurt
Kurt
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 840
Likes: 8
I'm having a similiar problem and intend to get one of those oil dye kits to help identify the sources of the leak.
The first page of this thread may be of interest:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...oil-leaks.html
The first page of this thread may be of interest:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...oil-leaks.html
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
Likes: 35
From: Central Oregon
Pretty common for a FE engine to leck oil out the intake manifold, the cork gaskets come out over time. To fix you have to pull the intake and replace the gaskets. When I have done this in the past; I clean every thing good and glue the gaskets to the engine side and then set the intake down without bolting it down and let set over night. The use the gasket sealer on the top of the gaskets and bolt it down. Very important to keep the cork in peices in place while they are drying. Make sure you put a lot of sealer at the ends of the cork.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 703
Likes: 3
From: Western Washington
I've used the cork gaskets before, but prefer using a gasket maker called RightStuff. Never had a problem with it creating a leak from drying out, cracking, splitting or separating. Also used it on the oil pan and timing chain cover. It's a little pricey, but works good.
OJ
OJ
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Valve covers are also notorious leakers along with the intake. Try cleaning the back of the engine real good, take it out for a 5 mile or more test run and see what is wet when you get back.
Do you have chrome or after market valve covers on the engine?
John
Do you have chrome or after market valve covers on the engine?
John
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 840
Likes: 8
As my valve covers arn't leaking, I went right to the intake gaskets as a likely source for both my leak and yours. But Jowilker is right....valve covers are more likely to be the culprit.
Try to find out for certain where the leak is. Removing the intake isn't much fun. All the pushrods and rocker arm assemblies have to come out.....and try not to mix anything up if possible....all pushrods should go back where they came from, or you'll get some extra wear later on.
Try to find out for certain where the leak is. Removing the intake isn't much fun. All the pushrods and rocker arm assemblies have to come out.....and try not to mix anything up if possible....all pushrods should go back where they came from, or you'll get some extra wear later on.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Chico, Ca.
I've replace the valve cover gaskets, and the covers are stock. Looks like I'm in for a bigger job.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 840
Likes: 8
At least it's not an expensive job, just time consuming.
I forget the latest info on intake gaskets, but the consensus is not to use Fel_Pro printoseals (1246).
Some people swear by the Victor-Reinz 15166X gaskets, which I've heard may to hard to get. I think the performance P/N may be V-R Nitro Seal 95159SG which should be available at NAPA.
I have some information that says the Fel-Pro MS90145 is a good gasket.
Don't go by me though when it comes to P/Ns. Maybe someone else can confirm them, or check into it a bit. There's a lot of info here using Search, and more from other forums using Google. Also, there are different gaskets depending on wether the engine is low-riser, M-R, etc.
One trick I found, is to temporarily install the gasket and mark the top corners if they protrude higher than the head/valve cover surface. The remove the gaskets and trim with tin-snips. As some of these gaskets are metal cored, trimming them with a razor blade after the intake is installed can be difficult. If they arn't trimmed, your valve covers may leak.
I forget the latest info on intake gaskets, but the consensus is not to use Fel_Pro printoseals (1246).
Some people swear by the Victor-Reinz 15166X gaskets, which I've heard may to hard to get. I think the performance P/N may be V-R Nitro Seal 95159SG which should be available at NAPA.
I have some information that says the Fel-Pro MS90145 is a good gasket.
Don't go by me though when it comes to P/Ns. Maybe someone else can confirm them, or check into it a bit. There's a lot of info here using Search, and more from other forums using Google. Also, there are different gaskets depending on wether the engine is low-riser, M-R, etc.
One trick I found, is to temporarily install the gasket and mark the top corners if they protrude higher than the head/valve cover surface. The remove the gaskets and trim with tin-snips. As some of these gaskets are metal cored, trimming them with a razor blade after the intake is installed can be difficult. If they arn't trimmed, your valve covers may leak.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 703
Likes: 3
From: Western Washington
Also, if the valve cover bolts were over-torqued, this will warp the area around the bolt holes on the rail and cause them to leak. If that's the case you will have to straighten / flatten back out the rail to get an even seal. Use a straight edge on the underside around the bolt holes to check this. But the FE's love to leak in the rear corners where there's no bolt.
OJ
OJ
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Mine had to be done by 3 different people earlier before they were stopped. One of the installers was me, and I didn't stop the leak.
The last shop stopped all dribbles, didn't ask how, just glad he did.
John
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