My daily driver is a 2005 F250 SD with the 6.0 diesel, 190,000 miles.

It started running ****ty about 2 weeks ago. Hard starts, rough running and sparadic power loss while maintaing a speed at a low RPM. I took it to the dealership and they ran a diagnostic and told me they were going to clean the fuel filter housing/pump assembly for $1,100. Sounded pretty high to me considering the pump/filter housing takes about 10 mins to remove. Anyways they call me after they tear it all apart and suggest a new filter/pump housing, and added a cam sensor, egr valve and that would cost me $2200. I told them to push it out of the bay and not touch it. I about **** when they told me I was going to be spending that much for a couple sensors and that housing, so I bought it back to my shop and did all the work myself. I also dropped my fuel tank and cleaned it. found a bunch of paper tabs had fallen into the tank form the diesel additive I buy from ford. I also replaced the housing and sensors that they suggested. It runs a lot better than it was, but it still starts hard and will loose power or cut out power when maintaining speed at low idle. Im not sure where to go from here. I could take it back to the dealership for another diag, but I bought automotive engenuity and the ford package upgrade and have tried messing with it a bit today and havent had a lot of luck. I see a few codes that are up but I have no clue the depth of this software.

If anyone knows some good advice on what to look at next on the truck or on this automotive enginuity I would greatly appreciate it.

thanks,

 

Moved to the 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel forum.

 

Have you ever cleaned your Turbo. I did mine as well as many other things but a few of the vanes were sticking and I only have 58,000 on my engine.

 

I have done nothing with the turbo yet. I was just reading up in the tech folder. There is an overwhelming amount of info in there. I noticed one of the blue rubber boots on the turbo line looked fairly worn. Is cleaning the turbo a real intense job? I saw someone post its a 7 hour job.

Tommorrow I will post the codes I can get to come up with the diagnostic program I bought, but Im pretty green with it.

 

try posting up the codes you are getting that woudl be lots of help

 

Cleaning turbo was no big deal. Listen to Cheezit he is a wealth of information and if anyone can help he can.

 

/ blush

 

Ok,

hooked up the laptop and these are the codes I was able to get, I just got this program and Im a novice at best with using it.

DTC's

C1175- Speed wheel sensor LR circuit input failure
C1236- Speed wheel LR input sensor missing signal
U1900- CAN communications bus fault
PO528- Fan speed sensor no signal
B1318- Battery low voltage
B1352- Igniion key-in circuit failure

Key off test- Pass
Key on test- P1703 Brake switch out of self test range
Diesel key on glow plug test- pass
Diesel key off injector buzz- pass

Power balance- at an idle I didnt see any indication of any misfires (no spikes in graph at all) I tried to idle up but then the lines woud leave the graph and I havent figured out how to change the parameters so I can view at a higher rpm.


Thats what I have in codes, I bought the truck in august and in the first couple of weeks it ran fine and then one day would not start. dealership replaced the FCIM and they told me I would need 2 injectors. I waited on the injectors and within a week of replacing the FCIM I developed random no fires when I would try and start, I would have to try and crank several times. once the truck fires it starts right up. Now I also have fluttering power loss at low rpm like I said before.
So list of new parts

FCIM-dealership replaced in october

Work done by me last weekend:

Fuel filter housing/pump
Dropped/cleaned fuel tank
cam sensor
egr valve-(from what I have read so far I should have installed the delete?)
oil/fuel/air filters

I read about the amperage range on the FCIM and that low voltage can effect starting so Im going to get some new batteries tomorrow and see if that clears up the starting issue... and Ill add some pics of the truck too.

any advice is appreciated

 

Also, I forgot to mention that the dealership I had the trouble with last week told me that I was getting a low compression reading in cylinder 3, but that it might be triggered by the fuel problem I was having.

I dont know if low compression would show up in a power balance graph but I didnt see anything abnormal. Im not sure Automotive Enginuity can even run a compression test.
I was surprised that my injectors passed my tests and the dealership told me in october I had 2 injectors out and when I had it in last week it was 5(but maybe they were false codes from fuel issue??)

thanks again

 

check it using relitive compresssion... if ae has that function.