Hi, I'm just a shade tree mechanic try to diagnose a hot crank no start condition on my 2006 F-350 6.0 that I purchased second hand about six months ago. I first took it to a diesel shop to have them fix it and the mechanic told me that the stand pipes and dummy plugs needed changing out but couldn't tell me 100% if that would fix the hot no start problem. So after $1100 later here I am broke with the same issue. I have been reading a lot about this problem and it seems that the snap to connect fitting on the HPOP is the most common problem on these trucks. It seemed easy enough to do so I went after it only to find it was already replaced with the updated part. I went ahead and changed it anyway but it obviously didn't help. So today I pressurized the system through the ICP port with my small harbor freight compressor up to 80 psi and forced the IPR valve closed with 12v. I then listened for a leak in the passenger side valve cover with a hose stuck in the oil fill cap, the driver side cover from some drain hole under the air filter housing and in the oil filter housing. I could hear a mild hissing from the driver side and the oil filter housing but it was clearly louder from the oil fill on the passenger side. This leads me to believe I have a top seal leak from one of the injectors on the passenger side, but not 100% sure. Should I be hearing anything at all from the driver side and from the oil filter housing if its a bad seal in the passenger side?

Another problem I just found out I have seems like maybe fuel in the oil. I done a oil change this week after 3500 miles since last change and drained out five gallons of oil!! The oil seemed really thin. My coolant level is still good so the only thing I can think of is fuel dilution. Could this possibly be the same o ring or injector that is causing my hpo leak or something else?
Will a bubble or balloon test help with diagnosing this?

I bought a cheap OBD2 reader that works on my Ipad with a app called Dashcommand so I can see what codes were stored. The codes are...
P0401- Exhaust Gas Recirculation A Flow Insufficient Detected (EGR has been deleted)
P0528-Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0670-Glow Plug Control Circuit/Open
P0683-Glow Plug Control Module to PCM Communication Circuit
P2290-Injection Control Pressure Too Low

So far my thoughts are to replace the injector and nipple cup seals to take care of the hpo leak. Once I have the valve cover off, clean the injectors real good and cycle the fuel pump with turning the key on and inspect the injectors for a fuel leak. Is there a better way than this?

Sorry for the long post but I wanted to share enough information for you guys to understand my problems and hopefully help lead me down the correct path in my diagnoses. I have already spent too much money and time throwing parts at it so I need to get it right this time. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks, Wes

 

I recently drained over 5 gal out of a 6.0 also. Mine didn't smell like fuel or look like water though. Did you smell yours?

 

I did smell it but couldn't confirm it was fuel by the smell.

 

Yes - contaminated fuel/oil equals leak(s).

Could be any number of problems : bad injectors, HPOP leaks, the replaced stand pipe/dummy plugs, bad o-rings.

Recommend a better scanner (e.g ScanGuage, TorquePro, DashBoss, your choice)

I'd first check for misfires, then baseline the IPR pressure (engine off) --- should be 0-15% depending on altitude, then crank and watch IPR (high readings (near 85%) indicate problems). Also HPOP PSI needs to be above 500psi to get the injectors going.

Also --- best to use approx 100psi for the leak test, pull the oil fill cap, then the covers to isolate leaks (if any).

 

I just looked up how much oil you should use and it's 15 quarts. 5 gallons is 20 quarts. Way over full. The only way to get to much fuel into the oil is if the injector was stuck open. I don't see how it would occur otherwise since both systems are separated. I would however replace the oil if you haven't already done so with 15 quarts of oil only. As for the no start condition. You never told us if the motor turns over slowly or what. As for the codes, do you have a CEL? some of those codes may be a normal thing like open circuit to the glow plugs because they dont come on when the engine is hot. I would find another mechanic or make friends with one at a Ford dealership and he will be able to help.

 

I can't use torquePro with IOS, I'll have to research ScanGuage and DasBoss to see what they will tell me that DashCommand will not.

The below pic shows the IPR at 85% with the IPC pressure at only 300 psi while trying to hot crank. After the air test that was done, does anyone think it is the injector seals on the passenger side or could it be the HPOP itself.

 

Oil has been changed with only 15 quartz like before. Motor turns over fast, battery's are charged, I do have the check engine light on, all the codes posted above are stored codes and not pending codes.

For the glow plugs, today I Ohmed out all the glow plugs from the GPCM plug end and all read about .6 ohms so I believe the glow plugs and wiring harness is good. I then turned the key to on and checked the voltage to one of the glow plug pins on the connector and got 12v for a few seconds. So I'm not even sure if I have a glow plug issue or not.

For the P0528 fan sensor I loaded the PID for sensor signal for fan speed in DashCommand and went for a drive but never got any feedback from the fan sensor you can see in the photo below. I checked to visible connections for the fan and all looked good. I also see that the fan is always on, even when the truck is first started up and the coolant temp is low. Is this fan supposed to turn off and on are always on?

 

670 and 683 came up with mine when I had a crank hot no start. I was told it's tied to the long cranks without starting.

 

You can buy a 20$ phone to run torquepro. That's how I do it.