I searched around a bit and didn't see a thread devoted to preventive mods for known failure items so I thought I'd start a thread and see how many items we can come up with. These are items that are likely to affect most 7.3 owners eventually unless something is done to prevent the failure. I'll start with a simple one for the fuel line retainer clip on the right side cylinder head.

Although this has never happened to my truck...I've seen it posted on here enough times to warrant some preventive work for this issue. The problem is the retainer clip used to secure the fuel line can wear a hole in the tube itself and a fuel leak will develop. The factory clip has a small amount of rubber coating to help prevent this but it must not be sufficient. The easy fix is to use a short strip of thick rubber tape to wrap around the fuel line. If you don't have any rubber tape, several wraps of quality electrical tape will probably work fine.

Easy way to access the clip is to remove the passenger side intercooler tube to find the clip attached to a stud on the inboard side of the cylinder head. The attached photos and illustrations should help anyone who has not yet performed this mod.

If you know of or have posted a preventive mod in another thread then it might be helpful to post a link to that thread here as well. If this has already been done before, then my apologies.

Here is a running list of the ideas we have so far...

1. Protect fuel line to Bank1 head to prevent the clamp from wearing through the tube.(see post #1 below and this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-for-e99s.html)
2. UVCH ($0.50) and torque bolts (see post #62)
3. grease non-servicable front hubs via ABS hole (link needed)
4. protect Overdrive wire under steering column cover to prevent blown fuse (see post #13 by Woodnthings)
5. unplug fuel bowl heater to prevent blown fuse
6. hutch mod (unless you have fuel pressure gauge installed...) (see post #24)
7. Check SCA (unless you have ELC...)
8. Trans flush and service-(see post #2 below---write up by Mark K)
9. Power Steering hose guard-(see photo in post #7 below)
10. HPOP lines getting old (see post #5 for link to twags6's thread)
11. wrap around radiator hose with spare serpentine belt (see post #14 below for link to another thread)
12. extra protection for 42 pin wiring harness where it rubs on valve cover (see photo in post #16 below)
13. Under the "extra insurance" category. A mechanics combo kit of o-rings from Dieselorings.com (see link in post #18 and post #40 for IPR kit)
14. Caliper Slide Pin upgrade (see post #26 for link)
15. Coolant Flush and/or ELC upgrade-99.5 and up (see post #29)
16. Evap Core Cleaning (see post #30 for link)
17. A/C clutch air gap fix (see post #35 on page 3 for link to SpringerPop write up)
18. Another "insurance" item is to carry a spare CPS. (See post #41 for links)
19. Change brake fluid. It's remarkably easy and inexpensive. (See post #64 for details)
20. Ensure differential vent hose is clear and has no blockage. This helps prevent leaks at the pinion seal.
21. Use IR thermometer gun to check wheel bearing temps prior to long trips. Bad bearings will run hot before they start to make noise.

 

To prevent premature melt down of your transmission ( and like me, invest in a new BTS), Remove your 7.3 trans cooler and replace it with a 6.0. Then, (as told to me by Brian at BTS), do a transmission flush and filter change every 30,000 miles. I have read that some do not think that the filter needs changed but BTS suggested it should be.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...l-writeup.html

Note: This article was revised on May 2, 2008. It was first written by Mark Kovalsky several years ago, so "I" in the procedures is Mark.



Transmission Maintenance - Do It Yourself (DIY)

Changing automatic transmission fluid (ATF) in a SuperDuty truck with 7.3L engine and 4R100 automatic transmission. (Will also work on earlier trucks with E40D transmission.)


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.

1. Things you need to get started:

a. The transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 20 quarts of MERCON V ATF. You may use either conventional or synthetic ATF, as long as it is rated MERCON or MERCON V. Your Owner’s Guide says to not use MERCON V, but Ford changed that in 2006.

b. A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler line. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying! The metal part of your cooler return line is probably 3/8th inch outside diameter (OD) with a ferule on the end of it, so if you can find 7/16th inch inside diameter (ID) tubing, that will probably work great. If you use ½” ID, it will be a loose fit over the ferule and will need a good hose clamp tightened good to prevent it from leaking. So just in case, place a big drain pan under the connection. And some folks have reported they were strong enough to force a 3/8th inch ID tube over the ferule. If you try that, dipping the end of the plastic tubing in very hot water for a few seconds will make the job easier.

c. If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.

d. If your transmission has ever been worked on by a Ford dealer, you probably have a Magnefine in-line filter in the "rubber" part of the cooler return line, near the front axle. If so, you should replace that filter every time you change the ATF. You can get one from your Ford dealer, or for about $15 from Magnefine Filters--Online Order Form. Your cooler lines are probably 3/8th inch, so you want the 3/8th size Magnefine inline filter.

2. Note: In cool or cold weather, be sure the transmission is up to operating temp before you begin. It’s not supposed to happen, but several members have reported ATF coming out the cooler bypass line instead of the cooler return line if they tried these procedures with a cold transmission. Also, in cool or cold weather, keep the new ATF in the house so it’s around room temperature of about 70º F. when you pour it in the transmission.

3. If your pan has a drain plug, drain the pan, then replace and tighten the drain plug. If it doesn't have a drain plug, skip to step #5.

4. Pour 7 quarts of new ATF into the filler [dipstick] tube.

5. Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler(s). This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. This is where the old ATF from the transmission, torque converter and coolers will be pumped out. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission.


6. This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.

a. Run the engine at idle RPM until you have around 1.5 gallons in the drain bucket, then you should see a big air bubble in the clear tubing. Ignore tiny bubbles. As soon as you see a big air bubble, shut off the engine. Then double-check the amount of used ATF in the drain bucket. You should have around 1.5 gallons. If you have much less than 1.5 gallons, then you probably killed the engine too soon, so crank the engine and pump out some more old ATF.

b. If you drained the pan in step 3 and poured in 7 quarts of new ATF in step 4, then while the engine is idling in step 6a above, move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.

c. If you poured in 7 quarts of new ATF in an earlier step, then refill through the dipstick tube with 6 quarts of new ATF. (That's 13 quarts total so far). If you have not poured in any new ATF yet, then pour in 7 quarts of new ATF, for a total of 7 quarts so far.


7. Repeat steps 6a and 6c until you have poured in a total of 19 quarts of new ATF (7 + 6 + 6).


8. Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission with 20 lb/ft torque.

9. Drive the truck several miles to get the transmission up to operating temperature. Then check the fluid level and use the last quart of ATF to top off.

Note: You should always check the ATF level when the transmission is up to operating temp – not when it’s cold. The cold marks on the dipstick are not very reliable. When first filling the transmission, use the cold zone on the dipstick to get close to the right amount of ATF in the transmission. But for topping off, do it with a hot transmission using the hot area of the dipstick. When you get done, you want the transmission full, but not overfull.

10. Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.

11. Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.

12. Then get back on TheDieselStop and tell us your "lessons learned" for those that follow you down the DIY road.

Now that we understand the basic procedure, let's muddy the water with the options:

Optional: Change the internal transmission filter. Revise paragraph 3 above to read:

3. Drain the pan, remove the pan, replace the transmission filter, clean the inside of the pan and clean the reuseable gasket, install the pan, then replace and tighten the drain plug. Torque pan bolts to 11 lb/ft.

If your pan doesn't have a drain plug, you remove and drain the pan at the same time. This might be a messy job, but most tranny pans on other vehicles don't have a drain plug, so you won't be doing something the pros don't do routinely.

Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable.

The pans for the 4x2 and 4x4 drivetrains are slightly different, so the internal transmission filter is also slightly different. So be sure you buy the correct transmission filter for your drivetrain.

I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter. I've opened filters with over 300,000 miles that were not even close to being clogged.

It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter.

Optional: Drain the torque converter. Add the following to paragraph 3 above:

If your truck was built before August, 2001, then you may have a drain plug in the torque converter. If you do, then you can also drain the torque converter as part of step 3 above. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001, you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter.

If your torque converter does include a drain plug, then to drain the torque converter remove the shield (but NOT the upper right bolt - this one only needs to be loosened) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you drain the torque converter, be sure to replace the drain plug, and torque it to 18 to 20 lb/ft before you continue.

If you drain the torque converter, then the old ATF won't come out of the end of the cooler return line until the torque converter is filled with ATF. So instead of waiting until you see big air bubbles in the drain line during your first iteration of going through in step 6a, run the engine for about 30 seconds while changing gears for step 6b, then cut off the engine.

Optional: Blow out the coolers. Add the following to paragraph 5 above.

It's not necessary, but some folks want to get every possible drop of the old ATF out of the system before they pump new ATF through the system. If you drained the torque converter, then you might also want to blow the ATF out of the coolers and cooler lines. If you have an air compressor, you can reduce the line pressure to about 15 PSI, remove the cooler "hot" line from the front of the transmission, and blow air into that line. That will force the ATF in the coolers and lines out the cooler return line at the back of the transmission. DO NOT use air pressure of more than about 15 PSI! Then be sure to reconnect that line before you continue with paragraph 6. <!-- / message --><!-- edit note -->
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x2 the fuel line fix...talk about a nightmare...right after i bought the truck i was driving down the hway on a sunny clear day and it looked like it was raining behind my truck. I was kicking up so much mist i thought i lost a radiator hose or something. I went to take the off ramp and slid sideways going 45mph because my tires were so slick from the fuel. i lost about 15 gallons in 5 minutes.

And;
1. It's a major pain getting the line out of the back of the truck, and back in
2. It's a dealer order part, so probably really expensive and a lead time too
3. I replaced it with rated high temp fuel line @ $5/ft with a couple fittings to make it work, so you could be out of luck and not have wheels for some time if you can't make it work.
4. The smell of diesel stayed in my cab for about a month.
5. Everyone behind me (including my friend in his 350) probably wanted my head on a stick.
6. Paying for a tow


see?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...fuel-leak.html
lol, you dont want to be here.

 

I would add replacement of the HPOP lines. these puppies are getting old and they work with some high heat and pressure. and there is NO GOOD TIME to BLOW an HPOP line. I know, I've done it twice. However, it is a quick way to dump 2 gal of oil on the side of the freeway! best to change them on your schedule rather than wait til your on a hook sayin
"I was gunna do that one of these days"

Barney

 

Good idea. Here is a link to a current thread that may help someone who hasn't done this before.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...placement.html

 

Great idea Greg!! Tried to rep you.

 

The power steering line rubbing on the drivers side suspension is another good one. I've heard of several people that it started to leak and left them stranded. You can see it looking from the drivers side tire towards the engine. Easy fix just put some wire loom over it. I forgot the size I used. Here is a pic of it. You can see where I added the wire loom.

 

Very good thread indeed.

 

Now that is a great idea! This is exactly what I'm talking about. I read about those threads but I keep forgetting about them when I get home and end up working on something else. I think I'll edit the first post to add to the list.

Hopefully SpringerPop will add his link to his annual grease thread and whoever came up with the 50 cent mod will add a link to their original thread (was that Chris?) etc, etc.

 

Thanks anyway. Still appreciated just the same...

 

Don't forget to mention equipping your truck with the "Dual Alternator" Upper Radiator hose!! Combine that with carrying a spare belt and you'll save yourself a lot of heartache should a belt failure happen.

 

EDIT: Added a few more items to original list along with credit for the original write up. Can someone help me figure out who originated some of these ideas please?

I know we are all here to help each other and it's not about building our egos but some of these ideas are really helpful and it would be nice to acknowledge the one who created the original write up in the first place.

For instance, I think F350-6 came up with the 50 cent mod but I'm not 100% sure. Did SpringerPop come up with the greasing hub idea? I suppose the Hutch Mod is named after someone with the same name? Does anyone have the link to the original thread for each of these ideas?

 

Here is a link for the Transmission Shifter Chafe Repair

Maybe add the wire harness chafe issue at the drivers side valve cover. A little tape or looming will keep it from damaging the wires.

 

Nice. See post #27 by PaysonPSD with a pic and part numbers.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...er-pump-2.html

 

Very nice write up. Thanks Ken!