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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 03:57 PM
  #1  
VTX1800rider's Avatar
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Ball joint play

The last several weeks, I've found and hit some good size potholes. Not on purpose of course but ones that would swallow a VW. I just checked the front end. On the left side no play. On the right I had a small amount for the ball joint. Are these suppose to be tight or is a very slight play allowed? The truck has 66k on it. I'm not sure if it was the potholes or they are reaching the life expectancy.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 04:16 PM
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Tight is good, a little play is ok too. They are tight when new.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 04:19 PM
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A very small amount of play is ok, i know this isn't a def. rule but I was always told anything around 1/16th an inch was ok. But more than that, its time to replace. I had to replace my originals on my 04 250 at 70,000 mi. It was only the right lower joint that was actually bad. It had a small amount of play in it, but it was toast! Everytime I turned the wheels it made a grinding sound.

But def. replace all the ball joints when you do it! I have taken my front hubs apart twice now... and that was two times too many(not just the length of time it took me or the work, but also the price of the axle dust shields and hub seals that pissed me off!
 
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Old Mar 7, 2011 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by swinehart07
A very small amount of play is ok, i know this isn't a def. rule but I was always told anything around 1/16th an inch was ok. But more than that, its time to replace. I had to replace my originals on my 04 250 at 70,000 mi. It was only the right lower joint that was actually bad. It had a small amount of play in it, but it was toast! Everytime I turned the wheels it made a grinding sound.

But def. replace all the ball joints when you do it! I have taken my front hubs apart twice now... and that was two times too many(not just the length of time it took me or the work, but also the price of the axle dust shields and hub seals that pissed me off!

I was told 1/16 too by a mechanic I know. He said about 3 hrs to do it and parts for about $500. I'm going to check with a dealer I seem to have good luck with over the years. This is over my head. I'll have to listen for any grinding sounds too. I just know when I go for the insp. sticker in May, it won't pass. I watched a guy in front of me last year fail with almost the same amount. Of course they are also looking for buck too.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2011 | 05:08 PM
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Axle dust shields- 25.00(x2)
Hub seal- 5.00(x2)
Knuckle seal- 65.00(x2)
Upper ball joints- 27.00(x2)
Lower ball joints- 42.00(x2)

I suppose 500.00 isn't too bad especially if you don't have the tools and time to do it. Those knuckle seals are what **** me off. 65 bucks a pop and you have to be carefull driving them onto the axle shaft. I made a tool that works great but you need a good size vise to hold the axle.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2014 | 12:29 PM
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Bumping this thread up.

Looks like the ball joints on my 2008 F250 are starting to go. I can feel a little play and see that its at the ball joints. Mostly the uppers, but I know to just change all 4 if I'm gonna do it.

How bad is bad though? Its really hard to measure 1/16" of and inch while yanking on the wheel to make the play visible. I have no vibration or anything when driving, but have been occassionally hearing a tiny clunk noise when turning at low speed. Thought it was the hub, but upon inspection everything is nice and snug, just a tiny bit of play at the ball joints.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2014 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Bumping this thread up.

Looks like the ball joints on my 2008 F250 are starting to go. I can feel a little play and see that its at the ball joints. Mostly the uppers, but I know to just change all 4 if I'm gonna do it.

How bad is bad though? Its really hard to measure 1/16" of and inch while yanking on the wheel to make the play visible. I have no vibration or anything when driving, but have been occassionally hearing a tiny clunk noise when turning at low speed. Thought it was the hub, but upon inspection everything is nice and snug, just a tiny bit of play at the ball joints.
With the truck up off the ground, you can get a crowbar in the gap and slightly pry up and down. You will easily see excessive play.
Normally you will also see quite a bit of tire wear cupping when these go bad.
How do your tires look?
 
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Old Dec 18, 2014 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by r2millers
With the truck up off the ground, you can get a crowbar in the gap and slightly pry up and down. You will easily see excessive play.
Normally you will also see quite a bit of tire wear cupping when these go bad.
How do your tires look?
Ok. So when I put a bar under the tire while the wheel is in the air and pull up I can see even more play. Its not huge, but probably around 1/16".

The tires actually look to have a bit of heel toe wear. Its like the front of each tread block is slightly worn more than the back of the block. The truck drives straight as an arrow though, so the alignment should be fine.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2014 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Ok. So when I put a bar under the tire while the wheel is in the air and pull up I can see even more play. Its not huge, but probably around 1/16".

The tires actually look to have a bit of heel toe wear. Its like the front of each tread block is slightly worn more than the back of the block. The truck drives straight as an arrow though, so the alignment should be fine.
When I said gap, I meant where you would normally put the tuning fork in when removing the ball joint. You will some vertical play that shouldn't be there if ball joint is good.
Unusual Tire wear is a much better indicator of ball joint issues then the way the truck drives. That can be a little deceptive.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2014 | 02:18 PM
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Ok, there is definitely too much play. Everything else is nice and snug, but I don't want the wear to spead too much into other parts. Better just go ahead and change all 4 joints.

Other than the new joints, a joint press tool, etc what else do I need? New axle seals?

I found a good video with a step by step on doing the job. Saw on another thread about full ball joint replacement kits with all the seals you might need when stripping down the front axles, but the link was dead. Anyone know where to buy a kit like this. Thanks.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2014 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Ok, there is definitely too much play. Everything else is nice and snug, but I don't want the wear to spead too much into other parts. Better just go ahead and change all 4 joints.

Other than the new joints, a joint press tool, etc what else do I need? New axle seals?

I found a good video with a step by step on doing the job. Saw on another thread about full ball joint replacement kits with all the seals you might need when stripping down the front axles, but the link was dead. Anyone know where to buy a kit like this. Thanks.
Wear doesn't spread, if it ain't broke don't fix it.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2014 | 06:52 AM
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I wouldn't buy a kit JMO. Did a lot of research on parts before I put anything on my truck front end, make sure you buy Quality parts also IMO when I'm there changing ball joints, I have everything apart so yes, I'm going to replace all tie rods, center link ,sleeves, seals and repack all bearings as I don't want to be replacing parts one at a time when they wear or worse yet break (Peace of mind) when I get the front realigned . Look at Raybestos (Lifetime guarantee). I put $750 including buying the tool, all lifetime on everything and it was worth every penny!!
 
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Old Dec 20, 2014 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian
Ok, there is definitely too much play. Everything else is nice and snug, but I don't want the wear to spead too much into other parts. Better just go ahead and change all 4 joints.

Other than the new joints, a joint press tool, etc what else do I need? New axle seals?

I found a good video with a step by step on doing the job. Saw on another thread about full ball joint replacement kits with all the seals you might need when stripping down the front axles, but the link was dead. Anyone know where to buy a kit like this. Thanks.
I would just buy the ball joints, all 4. Many places rent the pickle fork if you buy the ball joints from them.
Your truck looks like a 4wd.
You can buy the front bearing assemblies and replace if you want to spend the money but with 66k, I wouldn't spend the money yet.
Not sure of your years will work, but many can fill the sealed bearing from the abs sensor hole. That can keep them running quite a long time.
 
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