Does anybody have any experience with dynamatting their truck. How much of this type product do we need to cover the floor and back wall? Thanks in advance....

 

I used Rattle Trap on my 55..

100 sq ft just did the cab interior, floor, firewall, back wall, and roof.. enough left over for the door interiors

Sam

 

There are a few posts over on the HAMB about sound deadener. Many suggest using products you can buy at your local home improvement store for cheap. The first is the foundation liner used on cement block, it's tar on one side and foil wrap on the other. Then there's the wrap used on heating ducts, it's a small bubble wrap material with an adhesive on one side and foil on the other. Because of the bubble wrap it should only be used on the roof and doors. You can use the foundation wrap anywhere you want.

The guys that used it said it works pretty good and is a fraction of the cost of Dynamat.

 

Interesting that this issue has come up now...I bought a couple of cases of Dynamat Extreme some time ago when I found it on sale and had full intention of covering 100% of the interior surfaces with it. A few weeks ago I was talking with a local truck builder at his shop and noticed that one of his trucks had the mat only installed in sections, not a full 100% coverage. When I asked him about why the mat wasn't used to cover the whole panel he told me that the idea behind the mat was to supress vibrations and that full coverage was not necessary to accomplish this goal. That got me thinking, if you have a bell for instance and you ring it, how much of the bell's surface do you need to touch to stop the vibration? The answer is obvious, just a fingertip will do.
I am not sure how much coverage I will do when I install my Dynamat...I think that I will look into a bit further before making a decision but I just thought that I would throw this out to see if anyone else had their own idea on the subject.
BTW - I know that full coverage will provide much better thermal insulation but that is not the primary function of this product. This stuff is expensive and heavy so I would like to limit the amount I use if possible and go to a lighter weight, cheaper thermal insulation where feasible.

 

Some people use the Dynamat as thermal shield, not just sound deading. From what I remember right Dynamat states that you should cover all flat panels. the ration of amout used depends on the amount of db drop you want to acheve, if you apply 1/4 or 1/2 coverage of a panels the db drop should be around 3 to 5 decible, where when you cover all the panels you should see 10 to 20 decible drop.

 

I bought the bulk pack (36 sq. ft.) of Dynamat Extreme and used it to cover the entire floor and firewall of my '56. All 36 square feet of the package was used to cover EVERYTHING. (There are pics in my gallery) I purchased the Dynamat from Amazon for $138.00 and shipping was free. I also used the 1/4" Dynaliner to help with heat and sound issues. I believe I bought two -12 square feet packages for around $40 per package. The combination of the two really made a difference in terms of heat insulation and sound proofing. I really couldn't believe how much of a difference it made!!! I split a second bulk pack with my neighbor and am going to install the Dynamat in my doors this spring.

From the Dynamat website:

You can apply Dynamat in patches (25-50% area coverage) to keep a specific panel from resonating or you can apply it over an entire area (such as the floor, doors, or trunk) to create a sound barrier and vibration damper.

Even a small amount of Dynamat can cause profound noise reduction. For example, applying Dynamat to the doors of your vehicle can reduce road noise from 3-6 dB. Complete coverage of an average vehicle can reduce road noise 9, 12 even as much as 18 dB.

 

I used a plastic foam cell heat insulation barrier on top of the rattle trap, and then jute on top of that below the carpet.

sam

 

Fatmat is about 1/2 the price of dynamat......Peel & Seal from Lowes (in the roofing section) is about 1/2 price of that again. I've used all 3 and haven't seen any difference....just food for thought.

 

.....Except for the smell, the roofing stuff is rank for a couple of weeks!

 

I've used Fatmat in my 58 VW Bug and if you have ever ridden in an original one with any kind of exhaust they are like a tin can. I did a checker board pattern in the doors and rear quarters and complete coverage on floors and rear firewall. It made that car sound solid and like a real car....

In my truck I used Hercliner only and the Fatmat on the firewall and it's not too bad. it would probably be real quied if I used the foam padding and carpet on the floor and back wall
Deadanimal

 

Hmmmm, I honestly never noticed the smell......but then my sense of smell is about gone from working in bodyshops all these years.

 

As Bob J said, there's ton's of info on the HAMB on this subject. Also, check hotrodders.com and search home made lizard skin. It's really cheap and easy to make. I'm a cheap skate, so I applied home made lizard skin (hmls) on every surface inside the cab. Like real lizard skin, hmls is a thermal barrier, but I'm sure it has some sound reduction as well. Tinman mentioned roofing products, like peel and seal, which is available at Lowes. Peel and seal is some sort of rubberized tar with a foil backing. It's self sticking, but you can use some spray adheisive on trouble areas. It comes in 6 inch wide rolls, 25 feet long, for about $18. The six inch width means it easy to bend around tranny humps and such, and it's easy to cut. I measured it's thickness at .060, which I think is the thickness of dynamat, but correct me if I'm wrong. I'm going to cover the entire cab with it, and may put a second layer on the firewall. I started applying it last night. The trucks not on the road yet, so no personal feedback, but it's pretty well recommended on other forums. BTW, I don't smell it, but it's not very warm here yet.

 

B-Quiet sound deadening material

I used this on my Econoline.

 

I am not ready to install any insulation in my 51 f1 yet but i have
a 53 merc convertible with a 5.0 & aod in it & the floors get so hot that
your feet get hot.what can i use to get rid of the heat ?

 

LizardSkin is touted to give a 40% reduction in heat with a 2-coat application. rhopper mentioned above that you can mix your own and save $$$$...essentially LizardSkin is a mix of ceramic microspheres suspended in a latex paint. The more microspheres you mix in the denser the liquid becomes. Application requires a Shutz style gun...kinda like the bedliner folks use. I guess that you could roll it on if it is just the floor.

Here's a link that you may want to check out: http://www.ceramicadditive.com/work.html