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Search the Inline Six forum on this website for a thread entitled "A few more ponies please" or something like that and you will find significant information on modifying for increased power.
One: Find a truck in at JY with the 8.8" rearend and the limit slip installed. Most of them I have seen are 3.55 gears. Then it's a simple Saturday bolt in swap.
Two: You can buy a new limited slip carrier plus a ring and pinion gear set and install that in your rearend. Lots more work and a little hard to do. If you have never done it before I suggest a professional.
I did the first option. I found a 97 Cobra that was wrecked but hade a freshly rebuilt rearend, about 20K miles on it. It was a 4hour bolt in job. Took a while because I was teaching my son about rearends and suspensions as we went along.
I would not go over a 3.73 gear. From what I have read here in the forums most guys advise 3.55 for a good all around gear on the 300. I hope someone with a 300 and a limited slip will speak up about the acceleration.
1st find out what gear ratio your truck currently has , then go to a JY and pull the center chunk out of a 9" that has the gear ratio you are looking for
then put it in your truck
1st find out what gear ratio your truck currently has , then go to a JY and pull the center chunk out of a 9" that has the gear ratio you are looking for
then put it in your truck
i wish i could do something easier, im 14 and im more than half way done i jst want it to be faster
All these guys are on the right track. A lower rear ratio will certainly help with acceleration.
The factory was very fond of using extremely tall gearing behind a 300, most 80-86 models were equiped with gearing in the 2.47:1 thru 3.08:1 range. This was done to maximize MPG by taking advantage of the 300's famous low RPM torque (peaks in the 1700-2400 RPM range). MPG was rather good, but pulling power and acceleration both are less than what a lower rear gear ratio can deliver. Of course, the lower gearing does hurt MPG. This is where you have to choose, max MPG, max power/acceleration, or compromise between the 2.
Ditch the stock intake and exhaust. Put on a Clifford or Offy intake w/ a small 4-bbl carb, and either get headers or EFI exhaust manifolds. It will really wake that engine up!
i wish i could do something easier, im 14 and im more than half way done i jst want it to be faster
It takes 2 hours to change a center section in 9" axle and about 100-200 at a junk yard. That is going to be the most bang for the buck you are going to get. If you cant afford that, then you cant afford to go faster
at the junkyard, you aren't likely to find much in the way of engine mods we talked about, but for upgrading your gearing you will find plenty. your first step would be to look under your truck and determine which axle you have. its either the 8.8 or the 9". the 8.8 is of the "integral carrier" type, which means to you that there is a sheet metal cover on the rear of hte diff that unscrews with a number of bolts (i don't know, 12 or so, don't quote me on teh number). the 9" is of the "removable carrier" type, which means that the differential assmembly is bolted into the front side of the axle.
depending which axle you have, you will have different options for moving forward. if you have the 9", you can simply take the carrier from another 9" axle (truck/van, not car. some cars have a 9" thats not compatible), and installing it isn't too hard.
however, if you have the 8.8, you have different options. i would not recomend trying to take just the gears from a junkyard axle and rebuild them into your axle, as that gets complicated, so that leaves you to getting a whole axle from your junkyard. due to my experience with breaking 8.8s (twice in 10k miles), i would choose a 9" if you go this route.
as for what gear ratio you choose, thats up to you, but in my experience with a truck i used to have (86 F150 4x4, 300-6, 4-spd, 3.08 gears), i found the 3.08s to be plenty. (in a 9" they offer 3.00 gears not 3.08, close enough) the biggest performance problem i had from it was trying to keep traction when taking off on rainy days (every day in seattle), as i was unable to keep my tires from spinning even while easing the clutch out in 3rd gear from a dead stop... did somebody mention what a torquey SOB this engine is
i'm sorry, i talk too much...
but one more thing before i shut up, if your truck is a 4x4 (not mentioned), you should NOT change your gearing unless youre able to change it in both axles at the same time, or at least before you dare to think about shifting into 4x4
ok, i'll shut up now
The truck in question is said to be an 81. The 8.8 didn't appear until 83, so all 80-82 models came factory equipped with the 9". Of course, that doesn't mean an 8.8 could have been swapped in, but rather doubtful. The swap is usually the other way around, a 9" to replace a 8.8".
Look for a tag held to the center section of your truck by one of the bolts, it should tell you what ratio you have. There is also a code on the drivers door jamb sticker if you can still read it.
Keep in mind no matter what you do you still have an old truck that will handle and stop like an old truck at high speeds. Nothing you do to it is going to cut you 1/4 mile time in half unless you throw a bucket full of money at it. If you want something fast and dont need a pickup, get something else. If your parents got you this or advised you to get it for a first vehicle, then good for them, drive it a while, learn to work on it a little if you have a place to do so and some tools.
Like the rest of the guys here said, more than likely you have the 9" rearend. Judging from personal experience I would bet your truck has taller gears in it (2.47, 2.73, 3.00), both of my I6 powered F150s had highway gears in em... the 84 4x4 had 3.08s and the 96 4x2 (now 4x4) had 2.73s. Where do you live? I have a 9" center chunk loaded with 3.55s open diff I pulled from my Bronco when I regeared it. I am willing to sell it if you're interested. Gearing will really change the attitude of a vehicle, when I swapped out the 3.08s to 4.10s in my 84 4x4; it was like a whole different truck. I went from barely being able to chirp tires to being able to cut it sideways on dry pavement! No different with the 96, I went from 2.73s to 3.55s, way more guts and better acceleration. As far as gas mileage goes I would say if it didn't stay the same, it actually got better in both trucks. Why? I think it's because with my gear choices I found that happy medium to where the engine is not lugging all the time. It's not working as hard to get the vehicle moving and has an easier time maintaining speed. The end result it freed up some power and a bit of a fuel savings. Now, how do you decide what gear ratio is right for you? It depends on the application and what size tire you are running. With the stock size tires on your 1/2 ton, a 3.55 might be a bit on the low side for fuel economy, but it will definately liven things up a bit.
The early 80s carbed 300 sixes were so choked down it wasn't funny. The best thing you can do is get rid of the stock exhaust system and go to a free flowing system. Even if you did that and ditch the 1bbl carb for a 2bbl, adapters are available to bolt a 2bbl Holley to the stock intake. You will be amazed how much it will spunk up the six. I have been playing with these trucks and motors for around 12 years now, they respond well to mods.
If you are interested in the 9" center section, send me a PM. I may also be able to help you out on a 2bbl carb and adapter plate.
John
Yeah i think im jst gonna throw in a custom turbo kit in it. I have some neighbers that are all racers and most of them have turbos, so im going to see if they could find me one or sell me one maybe they can show me how to make it and all. So yeeah its my first truck i dont want it to be a fast truck i just want it to pick up fast cause its not too slow but I would like it to be faster. What do yall think bout a turbo?
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