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Like Dan posted, a raditor that will fit without any major issues. Best part is that it has an aluminum core and you can find one for a 76 F100 460 for under $150. The part is covered by a warrenty that comes with it. Granted the top and bottom tanks are not aluminum but I am not as worried about that.
One more thing, sometimes 460 water pumps get installed without the pump backing plate. This causes an overheating problem at idle. Just a thought, is your pump installed corectly? Should be in this order; timing cover, gasket, pump backer plate, gasket, pump. The gaskets are not the same althoe they look the same they are not when you look closley. Nother random thought; do you have the correct pump? I think the ones for the single toothed belt turn in the opposite direction from the V belt setups? Not sure about that but someone here will know (Garbz).
Thanks for the replies guys & yes I got your PM, William.
I'm using the factory gauge along with a new Autometer mechanical guage. Auto Meter 3332 - Auto Meter Sport-Comp Analog Gauges - Overview - SummitRacing.com
When the Autometer shows 200 the factory gauge was in the "normal" bars, but close to the Hot end (if I remember right, been a few months since 90 degree weather).
I have a new Edelbrock #8866 water pump (as new as the rest of the engine, got it together last spring). It came with a new backing plate. My fan is a flex 1318. My shroud & rad. are typical 70s FE style.
Flat tops with D0VE-Cs, undecked 1979 block, .040 head gasket, approx 10.6:1 comp. and Hedman headers.
If you can get your hands on a laser thermometer it helps identify where the trouble spots are. I was able to narrow down my temp issues to the clutch on my factory fan. At first it was my undersize "MOPAR" radiator that was living in my truck up until 8 months ago. Then the problem persisted during the warm days of summer and I was able to track the tempertures as the engine warmed up to see if I had a choke point. Everything warmed up evenly and kept climbing. At 200* the thermo-clutch should be solid as a rock to turn but it just flopped around on the axis of the water pump. So far there are no issues with it.
On a side note, I have had many bad experiences with flex fans. Flexing to the point of contacting the radiator at high rpm. Flattening out before 2500 rpm. Or cutting myself to name a few. If you have a factory fan available, try swapping it out to see what happens to the temp.
One would thing after driving one of these trucks for over 40 years, that one might have a clue on how to operate one in 100º summer heat and heavy traffic.
But I guess experience against buying fancy parts doesn't count for much these days.
One would thing after driving one of these trucks for over 40 years, that one might have a clue on how to operate one in 100º summer heat and heavy traffic.
John
John I've just got to ask, how do you operate your truck in 100 degree heat and heavy traffic?
Its air flowing across/through the radiator that keeps the coolant temp down. The trucks have ample open frontal area that allows more than enough air to pass through, no funneling or shroud needed.
They will not sit still and idle and maintain normal temps in much any weather. When very hot you have to raise the engine rpms to 1500 or above to combat the loss of air flow. You also keep it in the lower gears longer after movement has started to help move air & water.
My truck has the 4 blade fan and a 3 row Modine radiator. The fluid is a 50/50 mix of Prestone & grocery store distilled water. The fluid looks the same as the day it was put in.
The last time that I was caught out in slow moving stop light traffic in the 100º range, I increased the engine speed when not moving (once to about 2000 rpms) and maintained a slightly elevated temp without it going out of control.
We don't have a lot of those days here in the Tarheel, but when we do that's how I get through.
But as I posted before, if the money is burning your pocket and ya gotta have it, go for it.
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