Side Moulding on doors - How do you remove it?
#1
#2
They are attached with 3M adhesive strips. I used a hair dryer to soften the adhesive at one end and then just started slowly
pulling them off applying the heat as I went. A heat gun is way to hot. If you work slowly while constantly applying some heat
almost all the adhesive will stick to the moulding backing. I carefully used a plastic scraper and Goo Gone to get off what was
left on the paint.
I took off the E99 moulding and replaced with color matched 2004 moulding.
pulling them off applying the heat as I went. A heat gun is way to hot. If you work slowly while constantly applying some heat
almost all the adhesive will stick to the moulding backing. I carefully used a plastic scraper and Goo Gone to get off what was
left on the paint.
I took off the E99 moulding and replaced with color matched 2004 moulding.
#3
#4
I forgot the install part.
As a guide I applied wide blue masking tape with the top edge at the bottom of the horizontal contour line. The bottom edge of the tape was
where I wanted the top of the mouldng to be. Determne ahead of time how close you want the molding to be to the edges of the doors.
You can use a piece of masking tape to mark the starting point if you are not using the the actual edge of the door. Peel back just enough
of the top protective strip so you can stick the moulding to the body and then slowly peel and stick using the tape as a guide. Then
peel off the bottom protective strip.
If you are reusing the old mouldings find the thinnest 3M double back tape you can. If it's too thick the mouldings stick out to far and you can
see the 3M tape. Yes, the 3M mounting tape comes in different thicknesses. Haven't found the really thin stuff at a parts store but have seen
it at an auto paint store.
The mouldings I got from ED were a solid color all the way through and not painted. That is why I got the moulding for a 2004. They were
actually about half the price of the paint to match mouldings. Go figure.
The part numbers for the paint to match mouldings ended in PTM.
The plastic chrome in the middle of the old mouldings was starting to peel off so hey got replaced.
Before at top. After at bottom.
As a guide I applied wide blue masking tape with the top edge at the bottom of the horizontal contour line. The bottom edge of the tape was
where I wanted the top of the mouldng to be. Determne ahead of time how close you want the molding to be to the edges of the doors.
You can use a piece of masking tape to mark the starting point if you are not using the the actual edge of the door. Peel back just enough
of the top protective strip so you can stick the moulding to the body and then slowly peel and stick using the tape as a guide. Then
peel off the bottom protective strip.
If you are reusing the old mouldings find the thinnest 3M double back tape you can. If it's too thick the mouldings stick out to far and you can
see the 3M tape. Yes, the 3M mounting tape comes in different thicknesses. Haven't found the really thin stuff at a parts store but have seen
it at an auto paint store.
The mouldings I got from ED were a solid color all the way through and not painted. That is why I got the moulding for a 2004. They were
actually about half the price of the paint to match mouldings. Go figure.
The part numbers for the paint to match mouldings ended in PTM.
The plastic chrome in the middle of the old mouldings was starting to peel off so hey got replaced.
Before at top. After at bottom.
#5
we do them all the time . robin had new tape already there on the new moldings that is a littel easier. you can just pull them off cold but you need to get started some where if you pry do it on the bottom of one end so you wont see marks in the molding.try not to bend them out of shape . sometimes we will use piano wire or mig wire or something like that wrap around two screwdrivers and cut thru the tape.now your gonna have to replace the tape. you can cut/ scrape it off the molding down to a good flat surface then we use an adhiesion promoter on the molding apply tape to molding than to car . its easy to get to stick to paint plastic is differant . the tape trick works for line up .if your doing it at once run the tape to the top of moldings before you take them off and reapply to the edge of tape . we will also just run a piece of 2 in tape as a guide on new paint 2 inch wont sag and you can stand back and look before you stick it you only want to do that one time!!actully it might be easier for you to paint them on the truck and forget about them sticking.if i was just refinishing all body side moldings i probibbly wouldnt take them off just tape truck off good for overspray!!hope this helps
#6
Wes,
Nice to get some advice from a pro.
I have used fishing line in a sawing motion to remove emblems.
I used the hair dryer on the mouldings because it worked so well when removing the 4x4 decals on the bed.
A shop probably uses something else but I use alcohol to clean the area before mounting something that uses
an adhesive to hold it in place.
Nice to get some advice from a pro.
I have used fishing line in a sawing motion to remove emblems.
I used the hair dryer on the mouldings because it worked so well when removing the 4x4 decals on the bed.
A shop probably uses something else but I use alcohol to clean the area before mounting something that uses
an adhesive to hold it in place.
#7
Thanks to both of you. I got my old mouldings off and it's a mess. They pulled off with little effort. The front edge of each moulding was flared out a bit so it was easy to get a trim tool underneath and gently pry them off. The tape goo took some elbow grease but all the residue is off now. I decided to pitch them in the trash. I don't think there was any way of salvaging them. There was a bunch of caked on mud underneath each strip. I think I'll run without them for a while to see if I really want to replace them. I need to wash the truck now then I will post pics.
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#8
no poblem robin ,alcohol works or prep solvent , adhesive remover to. heat is ok but if hot enough to soften tape molding also gets soft and streches when removing sometimes the are ruined. no problem unless your reinstalling. usally when reusing a molding the tape will stick to paint good its the molding that comes loose ie adhiesion promotor on the molding before the tape goes on. that will stick em for good and we dont see em come back.
#9
Thanks to both of you. I got my old mouldings off and it's a mess. They pulled off with little effort. The front edge of each moulding was flared out a bit so it was easy to get a trim tool underneath and gently pry them off. The tape goo took some elbow grease but all the residue is off now. I decided to pitch them in the trash. I don't think there was any way of salvaging them. There was a bunch of caked on mud underneath each strip. I think I'll run without them for a while to see if I really want to replace them. I need to wash the truck now then I will post pics.
chris , they are about 100 bucks apiece save em . a quailty body shop can save em and paint them if you want them back on . but lay them flat if you do .
#10
Where do you get color matched new trim
They are attached with 3M adhesive strips. I used a hair dryer to soften the adhesive at one end and then just started slowly
pulling them off applying the heat as I went. A heat gun is way to hot. If you work slowly while constantly applying some heat
almost all the adhesive will stick to the moulding backing. I carefully used a plastic scraper and Goo Gone to get off what was
left on the paint.
I took off the E99 moulding and replaced with color matched 2004 moulding.
pulling them off applying the heat as I went. A heat gun is way to hot. If you work slowly while constantly applying some heat
almost all the adhesive will stick to the moulding backing. I carefully used a plastic scraper and Goo Gone to get off what was
left on the paint.
I took off the E99 moulding and replaced with color matched 2004 moulding.
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