I am still struggeling with a persistant P1316 injector driver module codes. I have done all the easy stuff like injector wire harness, valve cover gaskets IDM module. I have also read all the resistance values of the IDM harness. All fall within spec, eg 3.6 ohms. I even did the wriggle test while checking the IDM harness.

I am down to the fact that one of four things must be at fault.
1-bad injectors (although they all ohm out ok)
2- bad engine management computer
3- bad wire harness from IDM to Valve covers
4- defective injector drive module. (although it is a new rebuilt)

Buzz test and cyl contrib test all pass.

I guess my next step is to replace the injectors. I hate to throw money at this problem but I've tried all the logical steps.

Does anybody have some input on this?

 

What codes are you getting after doing the buzz test? How does the truck run?

 

Is there an actual problem other than you get a SES light from time to time?

 

subscribing and bump

 

I would suggest you find a friend with a 7.3 and swap IDM's with him to rule out the possibility of your reman being the problem. You've had this issue since the reman was installed, right?

When you checked the IDM harness, did you check between the IDM and 42 pin connector and from the 42 pin to the valve covers? Instead of reading ohms at the injector, check the ohm reading of the wire itself.

 

if you have dun the idm mod you may get this code

 

Can't really answer that tdpower. I've done it so many times that I would have to say no codes present after buzz test. Several month ago while trying to resolve this, I did get some codes that said something like "high to low something or other". Sorry can't be more specific. The truck runs strong, no miss and lots of power. Starts right up too.

After clearing the code it usually stays off after a 20 minute drive or so. Then sets itself immediatly after restart. Sometimes it comes on as soon as I restart after resetting the code. There is not a whole lot of rhyme or reason to it.

F350-6 I have had this issue for more than a year. I bought a reman IDM to try to remedy this. I live in California and I have to get my truck smogged. They wont smog it with the check engine light on.
The ohm readings I checked were from the IDM connector through the injector back to the appropriate pin in the IDM connector. The manufacturer of the IDM provided instructions on how to do this and what pins should have what values. All readings should be 2.8-3.6 ohms and all of mine were 3.7 when hot and 3.5 when cold. I also wriggled the heck out of the harness and connectors while doing the ohms test.

leekingen I have not not made any modifications to the IDM

Thanks to all who responded.

 

I've had issues with "IDM high to low side open" and other IDM codes before and replaced my IDM with no resolution. My main issue was that I was experiencing an engine miss that was very temperamental. Sometimes the miss was dramatic and sometimes it was very mild.

I then began to focus on the injectors since I was seeing pretty high rotational velocity on cylinder 8 so I swapped injector 2 with 8 and the high rotational velocity followed over to cylinder 2. I had a new reman injector I then dropped into cylinder 2 and the miss was slightly better. There were somewhat elevated rotational velocities on cylinder 1 and 3 also so I contributed the remaining engine miss to those 2 cylinders. 1 and 3 were also making some injector noises as well.

Just a few days ago, I was suspecting issues with my alternator since I just bought brand new batteries for my truck and was noticing the idle was dropping when I turned on my headlights. Took it to an alternator shop and after doing some testing they were kinda stumped as to the results they were getting. Before putting the battery cables back on I mentioned that the cable clamp for the positive terminal was marginally bent inwards towards the post and I asked if that could be causing any issues. He pulled out a battery clamp reamer and reamed out the imperfections in all of my battery cable clamps.

Started the truck up and it was a miracle! The engine miss I had experienced for a very long time was just about completely gone! The truck ran better, the transmission shifted better, and it had more power. I couldn't believe that something that seemingly insignificant could play such a profound role in how my truck ran. There is a nearly imperceptible miss left which I confidently believe is due to injector 1 and 3.

The lesson: Make sure the battery terminal clamps and posts are reamed out with the proper tool. Not just the wire brush tool, but a razor blade style battery reamer. Just be sure not to ream it out so much that you're no longer able to get a tight enough grip back onto the battery posts. To finish up, put some white lithium grease onto the battery terminal connection.

Hope this helps you or somebody else out there!