Carburetor problem/
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Carburetor problem/
I have a 1979 F100, I rescued from a field and will restore it, it is road worthy now, but, when it first starts up, it runs ok while the choke appears to be on, however, after it warms up, it sounds like it is sucking air, it does not have any power at all during this time. I already tried keeping the butterfly wide open, it still runs the same when it warms up, any other possible stuff I can try, i was going to rebuild the carb.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Minnesota
A carb rebuild is probably a good bet. Sucking air sound is a bit vague, but I would also check for vaccuum leaks as well. Start it up, and spray wd-40 around the engine compartment, if the idle picks up and it seems to run a bit better, start looking for cracked or missing vaccuum lines. If it has sat a long time, its a good bet some of them have rotted, or at the very least cracked. I have seen a cracked vaccuum line not leak when cold, and leak when it warms up. The rubber gets softer and the cracks open up. Good luck, and welcome to FTE.
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Could be a vacuum leak.. Check all the vacuum hoses and rubber nipples for cracks and if it is an automatic make sure the end on the bottom to the trans modulator to good and connected. If those check out good.. Sometimes it the brake booster itself, if with power brakes, the internal rubber diaphragms crack over time.. Also you can just use some starting fluid - lightly spray around the gaskets while running to find vacuum leaks, listening for a rpm increase as you go along, indicating a gasket leak.. Obviously take care when doing this as the spray is flammable.. The carb should be gone thru anyways. E-10 fuel will clean anything in a hurry if a rusted tank.. Change the fuel filter also the fuel goes bad and the new stuff even separates over time, creating water, alcohol, gas levels called phase separation... The water level is on the bottom right where your pickup tube is... Also, is the carb even dialed in correctly as it is now, could be that it just needs to be adjusted.. The simplest methods always work best in the beginning... The PO could have turned the screws causing the mixture to be off..
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i guess sucking noise is a bit vague, it runs like a bat out of h#@!! when the engine is cold, but as soon as it warms up the idle is fine but wow, when i take off, i have to really give it gas, good thing its a stick, otherwise it would just die, it spits and bucks until i really romp on it. I have it parked now, guess I will start the carb job. My first one so any great advice will be welcomed. Thanks
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Joined: May 2010
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Here are a couple of basic online tutorials on the carb tuning subject
1. Setting Idle Mixture The Right Way
2. How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge
Rebuild the carb if dialing it in doesn't help.. The sucking sound could be that carb opening up on full throttle...
1. Setting Idle Mixture The Right Way
2. How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge
Rebuild the carb if dialing it in doesn't help.. The sucking sound could be that carb opening up on full throttle...
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Well carb is done, however, I took off the check valve and found that it won't let air in or out, want to replace it before i put everything back together, BUT, none of the dealers any place have this. The part number is d8tz9e589b, any help in locating this part. Thanks
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Seems to be obsolete, and from a quick google search, nothing... Maybe a new thread with the above quote for the title... Good Luck...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern California
This is normal for this device. It will only let air pass through it under certain temperature and pressure changes. You cannot test this device by just blowing or sucking through it.
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check valve
Thanks, I'm a bit of a novice on this kind of work, used to ride a motorcycle until someone blew a stop sign, I needed something to do so I am restoring this truck, it is on the road, but needs a lot of work, figured it will be fun to drive and learn, any help is greatly welcomed, I am looking for a bed. This one is no good,
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