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Hey guys, I am 60 and have been keeping my antique Fords running all my life but need your advice. I have been talking to a sweet young woman with brakes that worry her and I'm guessing that she needs new brake pads on the front of her 2002 4 wheel drive F250. I havent looked at her truck yet but want to have new pads with me so I can replace them if thats what she needs. I looked at NAPA online and Advance Auto Parts and find brake pads in 4 different price ranges. She will be using the truck to pull a horse trailer thru the mountains.
Should I simply buy the most expensive or is that overkill?
Also what brake fluid do these trucks use? Please dont say DOT3. I use DOT5 in my Fords.
Thanks!
Step 1: Inspect brakes.
Step 2: Depending on outcome of Step 1, make decision to buy/not buy brakes.
No sense in spending money that you don't know is necessary. Buying pads isn't always what's needed.
Yeah, yeah, I know. Shes way out in the country and it would be dumb NOT to have pads and brake fluid when I go out there to look at her brakes.
And its EASY to return unneeded pads and get yer money back.
Someone Please answer my questions
For towing you want the best semi-metallic pads. Premium ceramic pads will be the highest cost, but they are not the best choice for heavy use such as towing.
If she is worried about the brakes because she has noticed some noise or braking problems you probably want to have a set of rotors with you, too.
I'm not going to tell you what brake fluid is required because you told me you don't want me to tell you DOT 3, even though that is what came in the truck from the factory. It is probably what is still in it, too.
For pads I recommend Hawk. I used their LTS pads and Napa rotors on my last brake job and I like this combo for power, feel and price.
I would add to what Mark said and throw in front calipers, rear pads, rear rotors, rear calipers, enough DOT 3, 4, 5.1 (not DOT 5, sorry) brake fluid to do a complete flush, and some bottles and hoses to do a gravity flush, pedal flush or a power flusher of your liking. Also keep in mind that torque on the front caliper mounting brackets is 166 ft-lbs so be prepared with proper tools to remove and mount it.
I agree with what monster said. All that stuff you can take back if not needed. You should take some slide pin lube with you too. If her calipers turn out to be ok, you will certainly need to grease the slide pins. If the rotors are warped, just replace them. Turning them tends to cause them to warp more quickly.
At the time DOT 3 was what was available. You can safely use DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 with DOT 3. I would not even attempt to use DOT 5 since it is not to be mixed with DOT 3/4/5.1 and is not to be used with ABS systems.
Presumably, you use DOT5 because it doesn't absorb moisture and has a high boiling point?
I have lived in Colo. for 20 years, and currently have 6 vehicles with DOT3 fluid. It's dirt cheap, and I open the bleeder screws every few years and bleed the clutch and brake systems. I have never seen any corrosion in these brake systems (rusty pistons) due to using (water absorbing) DOT3 fluid. I have also never boiled the brake fluid going down long hills. Perhaps these is some advantage to DOT5 in a harsh climate, or for race cars, but not for plow trucks and daily hacks, I think. I'm not sure I know of any or many that use anything OTHER than DOT3 ;-)
Agreed. I use DOT 5 in the race cars, but most of the vehicles are DOT 3/4. It is not worth the hassle draining, filling, and bleeding the entire system to change out to DOT 5 unless on a race application. I also have never boiled the fluids, and still most vehicles are running DOT 3/4 setup.
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