That was inevitable.
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Yeah, until I can get 'em to make it more up-front in the sign-up process, this will continue.

Or, are you alluding to a double-meaning someplace?

 

I don't have an avatar but I've put the rest of my info. in, don't know why it doesn't show up?

 

Not all info in a person's profile is displayed on the posts they make, some of it you need to
find by looking at their Public Profile (click a user's name for a list of things you can do).

Does that he answer your question?

Thanks for filling out your location.

 

Mine was updated too, still looking for an appropriate avatar....is the bra over the shirt thing patented? :-)

 

I like the way he's got one strap already removed... Damn sexy!

 

Is it acceptable to hijack my own thread? I wanted to see if I could tun it into a distributor reinstall thread? I've got the correct remanf. unit now and am going to start the reinstall process. I have a couple of questions for anyone who has done this before.

1.) Module connection point - I see the new unit has a "textured" kind of finish where the heat sink part of the module goes. Kind of like it was sand blasted clean or something. I'm thinking I would get much better heat transfer with as smooth of surface as possible. Would it be worth the trouble to sand/polish that area for better heat transfer?

2.)How fussy is the timing - This has the module on it, so I'm aware it controls the timing for the most part. I carefully marked the location of the rotor and the distributor so I could reinstall. I'm wondering how much tolerance there is in setting the new one. I see it looks like they drilled a second hole in the new gear when they placed it, I'm guessing that was so they didn't have to worry about alignment. I don't know how close the new gear sits to where the old one was. I know the engine hasn't moved and I know where the rotor was. I can get the vains on the stator in a pretty close location by adjusting the distributor with a twist but if that gear is rotated at all from where it originally was I think it will throw the timing off some. I'm guessing the electronics will compensate some, but not sure how much. Any more good advice on the install?

 

1) A well polished surface is much better for heat transfer. In the PC world, it common to "lap" the heatsink for better heat transfer, I see no reason it wouldn't work the same here. Also advise using a good thermal paste between the module and dist mounting plate, to improve heat transfer that much more. Personally, I use acrtic silver. Famous in the PC world, and just as good for the automotive world.

2) The ECU can compensate a little, but it really needs the "static" timing set as close to spec (10* BTDC?) as possible. It bases it's adjustments on the theory that static timing is set to spec.

 

I set mine yesterday after finally getting a timing light, chilton's says either 8 btdc or 10 btdc depending on the calibration( which my sticker is unreadable) so I tried 8 yesterday and went through half my 16 gallon rear tank in 68 miles( 8.5 mpg). Today I set it to 10 btdc and hve put about 45 more miles on it using about 3/16 tank (14-15mpg), mind you both days were interstate driving at 70 mph. so to answer your question, yes, timing makes a big difference.
BTW, with regards to the earlier posts, this has been one of the most enjoyable threads I've read so far

 

Can I cheat a certain direction with the timing of my 460 to increase mpgs? If so what is the cost ( in terms of what I give up to get the mpgs).

 

more vac advance will help mpg's

 

I can do that with the dashpot right? Allen key and crank that sucker up? In addition I just bought a dizzy but I am thinking about recurving it, any benefit to that?

 

I would think you'd get the best mpg if you optimized your timing curve. I got a recurve kit for mine and did it but didnt check mpg before/after.

 

Superb thanks bud!

 

With the TFI-IV ignition, where is the official timing number on the truck. I looked on the vacuum diagram and can't find it. It's not on the door sticker either. The Chilton say 10 BTDC, but they have been wrong on other values. I finally found the timing marks, I just want to make sure I get the correct timing figure