First I would like to thank this forum for helping over the last 6 months do so much work to something that means so much to me - my Ford Ranger. I am going to recap all the work I've done so the big picture can be digested in hopes that the new issues can be understood:

1994 Ford Ranger 2.3L Manual

1. Clutch smoking - replaced pilot bearing, clutch and pressure plate, slave cylinder/throw-out bearing, and had flywheel resurfaced.

Problem alleviated, although there were some frustrating times with bleeding that freakin' slave cylinder.

2. Engine running very rough, stalling intermittedly. Upper radiator hose was swelling and about to burst - changed timing belt, drive belt, upper radiator hose and thermostat. [did NOT change water pump - which I slightly regret] I did drain my A/C system to make things easier to get to with the timing belt change.

Problem alleviated (Upper radiator no longer swells)

3. Engine still running very rough, no acceleration, and stalls intermittedly - changed out spark plug wires, but not plugs because they had been replaced about a year ago before these symptoms appeared.

4. Engine still running very rough, stalling, no acceleration - change out catalytic converter. SUCCESS! Engine settles down now, no jumping around and stalling any more....

HOWEVER, the low idle is STILL rough, and after taking the truck for a spin around the block for about 10 minutes, I notice the acceleration is still just as bad as before. The truck no longer stalls and the engine is running WAY smoother than before the catalytic converter swap. One more thing - I test drove the Ranger at night - just now - and I got under the truck to check my catalytic converter for leaks and I about CRAPPED my pants - the whole exhaust system from the very top of the catalytic converter all the way back to the muffler was GLOWING ORANGE freakin' HOT!!!!!!

Is it normal for the exhaust system to get this hot? I hope it didn't damage my new catalytic converter!

Anyways...I appreciate the continued help many of you have given me, it has truely made me so much more capable to do all this work on my own. Now any new ideas given the new symptoms?

 

Also, I'd like to add that I changed the fuel filter, and tested the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve which checked out okay. I didn't check with a gauge, but the fuel spurts out pretty good when depressing the valve.

Also, I checked the fuel injectors with a stethescope and all 4 are 'ticking' away and seem to be working fine!

I cannot detect a vacuum leak, but there very well could be one. Also, I have always suspected a dirty IAC valve, but that wouldn't explain the poor acceleration and glowing exhaust system.

 

Is your check engine light on? For all the problems you are having, if the light is working it should be on. In any event, take the truck to an auto parts store (AutoZone, O'Reilly) for a free readout of trouble codes. Post the numbers here and we can begin to help you out.

 

You must have a major ignition misfire going on for that exhaust to glow red. I see you replaced timing belt. Any chance you didn't get everything lined up properly on the reinstall? That would throw timing way off and make it run poorly. Is your temp gauge indicating an overheat condition ? It should run dead center if running properly.Pull the plugs to check their condition even though it has only been a year and check compression while they are out. When you replaced the plug wires did you replace them one at a time to avoid getting the mixed up? Another thought is a bad coil pack here is a link to check them with an ohm meter. I agree on scanning for codes. The check engine light should come on and go off when you first turn key to ON prior to starting. If not the bulb is burned out or has been removed by previous owner.

| Repair Guides | Distributorless Ignition System | Ignition Coil Pack(s) | AutoZone.com

 

You can verify that everything was aligned properly during timing belt install by the procedure in this link:

| Repair Guides | Engine Mechanical | Timing Belt And Cover | AutoZone.com

 

To be honest with you, I haven't taken it to Autozone for fear that it wouldn't make it up there.

The Check Engine Light has never been on. But I suspect it is not working.

I do suspect the coil packs like you. I thought about that last night and will check when I get back from work. What I think is happening is that a coil is bad and there is only spark going to 2 or 3 cylinders. This would explain the severe loss in power. What this would do is make the fuel situation very, very rich and the fuel would go unburned in the cylinder(s) and be sent out through the exhaust system where it would finally combust. This would explain why the exhaust system was glowing red hot!

 

As stated it is running rich or ou have sever misfiring.

1)was there fuel in the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose
2) WHAT BRAND AND TYPE SPARK PLUG DID YOU USE
3) when you turn the ignition key and all the dashboard lights come on. DOES YOUR CEL COME ON? MAKE SURE SOMEONE DID NOT PUT TAPE OVER IT?
4) CLEAN THE MAF,
5) You can buy code readers for $30 now.

 

1.From what I can tell, it is getting fuel. I dont remember there being any fuel in the fuel pressure regulator. I took the hose off and it just sucked air, which is what I am supposing it should do. I was more worried about the fuel injectors than anything else in terms of the fuel system because the fuel filter was so nasty - it was the original from 1994.

2. I cant remember the brand, maybe Autolite, but I am fairly sure they were double platinum. The plugs were changed a year in advance to any of these issues and the truck ran fine up until recently when these issues surfaced.

3. I will check to see if the CEL comes on when turning key. Does it briefly come on?

4. I cant see the MAF causing the exhaust to do what it is doing. But as you probably have figured out, I am NOT an expert at any of this.

5. Yeah, I have been looking for a code reader, but I've held off on buying one because I was going to manually check for codes with a voltmeter connected to batter and EEC test box (with jumper cable). However, I never fully understood the process, especially what a jumper cable was and how to use it in conjunction with the manual test. I think it is supposed to make the voltmeter pin spike and give you a code with spikes.

I still really, really think it is a coil pack. Other than testing resistances, is there a way I can test the coil packs. I have a little pen-like device, it reminds me of a noid light, that if you place it on a spark plug wire, if there is current draw, the light turns on. I haven't tried to do that, but it would make sense that if a coil is out, then the light should not turn on for whatever plug wire is not receiving voltage. I will use this "pen-light" when I get home to see if I can pinpoint a plug wire that is not sending a spark, then I should be able to figure out if one or both coil packs are malfunctioning.

 

I would be very leery of reading codes using voltmeter approach. One wrong connection and there goes the computer/battery electrical system. Either limp it to autozone or if not mistaken you can loan out or pay a small deposit for some tools from them so check to see if they loan/rent out code readers. If you have a timing light with an inductive lead (clamps over spark plug wire) you could use that in the same manner as your noid light to get a general indication of whether plugs are firing. The check engine light should turn on and go immediately off at engine startup. If not bulb is burned out removed or tape put over it to hide defects when it was up for sale.

 

You can use the jumper wire and read the flashes from the CEL if you are worried about a Voltmeter.I think this was mentioned already. If you swap the coilpacks and nothing chamges it is not the coilpacks. If the truck runs differently it is a coilpack

 

AutoZone and other parts stores can check your coil pack for you - usually at no charge.

 

More bad news!! I am so frustrated. I thought for sure it was the coil packs, but I replaced both with new packs and primary coil it NOT firing - at least that is what the device is telling me that I am using to detect firing. The device is a pen-style thingy with a transparent middle section that illuminates when placed on the spark plug wire. It lights up on all plug wires on the secondary coil, but none on the primary coil.

I replaced the packs and took it for a ride - engine still runs rough - but still way better than before I changed out the catalytic converter. I could not get a reading at all on the pen-style device for ANY wires from the primary coil.

I also noticed something new - a NEW symptom. Actually, it may not be all that new, it happened on the last test drive of about 15 minutes the other day, I just forgot to tell ya'll. After riding for almost 10 minutes on this trip, I noticed that the temperature gauge in the dash stayed cold the whole ride - it may have gone up a little, but very little. I also turned on the heat and it was NOT very warm at all, barely lukewarm. It was definitely not normal.

The exhaust system still swelled bright orange, but not as bad as the last ride as I dont want to do damage to any of the exhaust system.

The bottom line is, the best I can tell, I am not getting spark from the primary coil and even a new coil did not fix the situation.

A huge question - if the plugs were bad or not gapped right, would the coil and wire still do their job and transfer spark throughout? Would that pen-style noid light light up if the plugs were either bad or not gapped properly? I just dont suspect the plugs though because they were changed about a year ago and the truck did fine until these symptoms surfaced.

I also think it is time to get more serious about finding an OBD1 reader. But both Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts do not have one either for rent or to use at all. My check engine light is inoperable. When I turn the key, the battery light illuminates, but NOT the check engine light.

 

Don't automatically dismiss the spark plugs just because you replaced them recently. They do occasionally go bad.

 

But, would there still be voltage from the coil packs to the plugs that would be picked up by my noid light, say if the plugs were gapped incorrectly or just plain gone bad? It seems like even if the plugs were bad my noid light would still be firing when connected to plug wires (the plugs just wouldn't send the spark across the gap), or is this a bad assumption?

Right now, I am not picking up any firing from my noid light from the primary coil, yet the my device picks up firing from the secondary coil - this of course after replacing both coils. Could this lack of voltage through the system actually be caused by the spark plugs being bad, or perhaps even wrongly gapped, or would bad or wrongly gapped plugs still register voltage across wires but just not cause spark in cylinder?

 

As mentioned before replace the plugs to get the most inexpensive option out of the way. From the time you put them in depending on internal condition of engine they could be totally fouled. If that doesn't help then investigate your wiring leading to coilpack.