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I keep all old parts for trophies. You have to understand that someone with my mechanical credentials (which are none), gets quite proud when they do something at this level.
I did smear that grease evenly on the back of the ICM. Thanks for the inquiry.
Now, I'm off to see if the new ICM solved the glowing orange exhaust system, or if that was a separate issue. I theorized that by having 2 cylinders not firing, most of the fuel was being sent out of exhaust valves unburned and being combusted in the exhaust system. If I drive it for 10 minutes and there is no glowing orange, then I was right. I had to wait until night time to run this visual test to be able to clearly see the color of the exhaust system.
Great Job!! excellent persistence...... here are a few links to show how to pull the cluster and replace the bulbs ie. check engine light
Yeah hang on to those trophies. Ever have a problem in future you got parts to swap out (except ICM). Or if you need some cash peddle em on Ebay. If you are firing on all cylinders your glowing exhaust problem should be history. Keep an eye on your fluid levels and you should be good to go.
Exhaust System PASSES! No discoloration in the least.
Took Ranger on road to get gas. First time on road in probably 3 months! The only problem now is I have to give the 98 Jeep Wrangler back to my father-in-law. I got to liken' that jeep! He let me borrow it until I got the Ranger up and runnin'!
I am going to tackle this issue next week. Right now, I am just overjoyed the thing is runnin' good. I will take probably take the bed off and have a look. I will consider Rock Auto. I am not scared to order online.
I am going to tackle this issue next week. Right now, I am just overjoyed the thing is runnin' good. I will take probably take the bed off and have a look. I will consider Rock Auto. I am not scared to order online.
Daniel.........you will want to approach this in a calm organized fasion.......figure it all out and then tackle the project.(like you would tell one of your students) Mesure your wheelbase. your wheelbase is measured from the center of the front and back wheels. do you have a reg cab, ext cab? Dorman makes good products and rockauto.com(search the net for a 5% off coupon) is a great company, if you can get the part for a $100 that is a good price........ALSO YOU WANT TO CHECK YOUR REAR LEAFSPRING SHACKLES AND HANGERS. THESE ARE THE THINGS THAT HOLD THE LEAFSPRING TO THE FRAME. THEY RUST OUT. I BELIEVE YOU NEED TO EITHER DROP THE TANK OR LIFT THE BED TO CHANGE THE FILLER NECK(SOMEONE WILL CORRECT ME IF I AM WRONG. IF YOU NEED HANGERS AND SHACKLES YOU MIGHT WANT TO CONSIDER DOING IT ALL AT THE SAME TIME WITH THE BED OFF......something to think about
*you probably should start acting like you know what you are doing. I bet you have done more work on your truck than 80% of the members..........Excellent job!!!!
After passing the wiggle test, I took off the ICM and had it tested at Autozone. It failed. I probably could have saved some dough if I would have sucked it up and bought a code reader to start with, but I look at it as now I have about changed out the ignition system. I bought a new ICM at Autozone for big bucks.
But I'm happy as can be. I knew right when I started the engine up it was firing on all cylinders. Then as soon as I took off I knew I completed the task! The acceleration felt like it used to back in the day.
Thanks for all ya'lls help, and don't worry I'm not going anywhere. I have a feeling I'll be a normal part of this forum because its fun to learn!
Way to hang in there & see your trouble shoot to a successful end, danielwd.
Daniel.........you will want to approach this in a calm organized fasion.......figure it all out and then tackle the project.(like you would tell one of your students) Mesure your wheelbase. your wheelbase is measured from the center of the front and back wheels. do you have a reg cab, ext cab? Dorman makes good products and rockauto.com(search the net for a 5% off coupon) is a great company, if you can get the part for a $100 that is a good price........ALSO YOU WANT TO CHECK YOUR REAR LEAFSPRING SHACKLES AND HANGERS. THESE ARE THE THINGS THAT HOLD THE LEAFSPRING TO THE FRAME. THEY RUST OUT. I BELIEVE YOU NEED TO EITHER DROP THE TANK OR LIFT THE BED TO CHANGE THE FILLER NECK(SOMEONE WILL CORRECT ME IF I AM WRONG. IF YOU NEED HANGERS AND SHACKLES YOU MIGHT WANT TO CONSIDER DOING IT ALL AT THE SAME TIME WITH THE BED OFF......something to think about
*you probably should start acting like you know what you are doing. I bet you have done more work on your truck than 80% of the members..........Excellent job!!!!
Good idea to check the spring mounts while you are under there.
Thanks for the advice, and I will check the hangers and shackles. I have spent so much money ($500 - $600) on this Ranger in the last 3 months doing all the repairs mentioned in my signature, I am not sure I am willing to shell out too much more unless I completely have to. Can you test the hangers and shackles/spring mounts to see if they are okay before repairing them?
Also, I am going to start a new thread with some new codes I pulled today - again, thanks for all of your help!
Thanks for the advice, and I will check the hangers and shackles. I have spent so much money ($500 - $600) on this Ranger in the last 3 months doing all the repairs mentioned in my signature, I am not sure I am willing to shell out too much more unless I completely have to. Can you test the hangers and shackles/spring mounts to see if they are okay before repairing them?
Also, I am going to start a new thread with some new codes I pulled today - again, thanks for all of your help!
as Maz mentioned you might not have an issue with your shackles and hangers depending on where you. I don't know where you live. it is not in your profile. just look at the hangers and shackles. a lot of times the shackle is so rusted that is disintegrated. you could poke them with a screw driver also to see if they are rusted.
The codes you have are probably EVAP codes from the filler neck issue
Unsuccess. This is my first chance to join in and truly enjoy the friends of this wonderful club. I have read all the post on this matter and as a fleet mechanic with 50+ rangers I have a couple of questions for diagnosing purposes. First, When you are accelerating and holding it to the floor will the truck give you a sudden burst of power after around 2,000-2,500 RPM range? If so something to check is your Casmshaft Position Sensor. Try this to see if any improvement will occur. Take a can of carb cleaner and kneel down beside your drivers side front tire. You should see the cam sensor mounted on the block right behind the oil punp that is driven by the timing belt. Spray it down with the carb cleaner and see if it improves idleing immedietly.If so, you may have a seal leak in the oil pump causeing your problems.It sounds crazy but give it a try. Let us know the results.
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