Daniel. GET THE. CODES READ!

 

I will replace the plugs today - any advice on what brand? Shouldn't they be double platinum?

Could I test the plug that leads to the primary coil somehow - I own a voltmeter?

And I'm going to get my hands on an OBD1 reader, even if I have to build a time machine and travel back in time.

 

Daniel you can safely read the codes with a jumper wire and the Cel flashes

STOP THROWING PARTS AT IT AND DIAGNOS FIRST. READ THE CODES

 

From what I read on waste spark ignition the spark travels thru two plugs at a time in a series (see link). If some of your plugs are fouled maybe the circuit can't be completed. If you have a Walmart near you buy the basic Autolite plug . It's APP104 on my Duratech 2.3 so check the chart for your's. Check Amazon for a reasonably priced code reader. Would be money well spent to narrow down the problem (problems). Next expenditure should be a Ford shop manual with wiring diagram to troubleshoot with the code reader. Random part replacement to fix vehicles is costly when doesn't solve problems.

Ford DIS/EDIS "Waste Spark" Ignition System

 

Maz..I respect your opionion I just tink in this case he should go back to the basics and Dx first. He has spent hundreds of dollars and hours of time, he should at least invest in a $30 code reader or use this method -> here is a link showing how Ford Ranger/Bronco II EEC-IV Testing

Maz on the 2.3/2.5 that the OP and I have changing the plugs is a little bit of a PITA. it is not as simple as on your 2.3. I have a feeling his plugs are not the issue and that it might be the ICM or maybe even something to do with the timing belt install( I need to reread those posts). IMHO The OP is all over the place and should start at the ground and spend sometime DXing

*my truck uses the APP104 also....you can get them at walmart like you said for less than $4 each

 

I agree he has alot of money/time invested in this machine and throwing parts at it is pricey and not the answer. I realize plug install on your 8 plug setup is a PITA. Only recommend it as it would be a shame to invest even more in major parts(cam sensor/computer etc) and have it end up being something as simple as the plugs. I also recommend a code reader. Has to to be for OBD1 however since he has a 94. Amazon has an Equus for 25 and another 25 for extension cord as the hookup is apparently under the hood . He could read codes with the Check Engine method but he needs to tear apart cluster first and find out why bulb isn't even lighting momentarily while starting and that's another problem in itself. I also think a Ford shop manual would be helpful and worth the expense. Maybe someone can throw out where to get for a good price.

 

good point I forgot about his CEL being out.........I pulled my cluster last week to replace a few bulbs. it was the first time I did it and it was not to bad at all......took less than 1 hour of easy work

 

Thank you all for the great advice, but I want to tell you something that you'll probably laugh at. I am not a mechanic - I am a school teacher. I've always wanted to be able to have some knowledge about the inner workings of a car. I love my 94 Ranger - it has been with me the whole way, through the thick and thin, and been a great vehicle. I really dont mind that I've spent the 400 or 500 dollars on parts thus far. I've actually enjoyed the work and getting to know how automobiles work. So its not like I'm pissed that I've spent that money, because to me it's been for more of a learning experience.

Now with that said, I am not made of money, so I would like to figure out wrong with it, and even though I'm not "pissed", I am frustrated because I feel as though the engine is solid - at least that's what the compression test indicated. I dont feel as though the head gasket is blown and I have no fluids leaking in the least bit. I should have replaced the rear transmission seal though when I changed the clutch, because I have seen a drop or two of fluid every once in a while on the drive shaft and transmission, near that seal.

The bottom line, is like most of your advice directs, I need to read the codes. Enough of this guessing game. One thing that worries me is that if the CEL is not working, that there is an issue with the EEC or PCM. That could also explain why the primary coil is not firing. That would be a big money issue, I think.

Another question I have is, could this be an issue with camshaft positing sensor. I think the PCM works in conjuction with the CPS to determine firing times for those coils. Remember, this is a distributorless system. But I am not even sure if my truck has a CPS. The Haynes manual makes it seems as though 94 Rangers, unless models from California with manual transmissions, do not even have these sensors. I am not so sure why California models are so special, but whatever.

I am going to continue my search for a code reader. There is a NAPA within range, but it is a little bit more of a drive. Autozone and Advance already said they did not have one.

 

And putting new plugs in is a cinch for me on this truck. I have a special extention that allows me to get to the ones under the intake pretty easily.

 

keep us posted.....

 

As has been strongly suggested, scan the computer for trouble codes & post All of the code Numbers, as they can provide good trouble shooting clues.
There are instructions for doing this by using an analog multimeter, 12 volt test lamp, or the CEL & or how to replace the instrument panel lights, so you could use the inoperative CEL, to count it's blinks & retrieve the codes & all this is in the "Tech Info" thread, located atop this forums thread listing page.

If you don't want to do the above, then as has been suggested at least invest in a OBD-1 code reader, or better yet a scantool that'll read & dispay live computer PID feeds, as this can save lots of laborious back probing with your voltmeter.
The Actron CP9145 scantool with the Ford hook up cable, or CP9150 scantool kit, has cables for USA made vehicles from about 85 to present, so it'll hook up to OBD-1, 2 & scan the newer CAN OBD systems. It's internet upgradeable, so it won't go obsolete, so as we come by newer vehicles, it can scan them too. Even though it's a lot more expensive than a code reader, it'll do way more & be useful over a loooong time, so we can maybe justify it's higher cost.

Also as has been suggested, if your going to begin to turn your own wrenches, a good repair manual, or repair CD can quickly pay for itself too.

If you don't get this problem fixed ASAP, you're going to be replacing the new cat converter again, as it's dangerously overheating from an overly rich exhaust. It's ceramic matrix may already be damaged, or melted down from the overheating events you've posted, so after you get the dead primary coilpack problem squared away, use your vacuum gauge to check the new cat converter for excessive exhaust backpressure!!!! Yes a vacuum gauge can do this test.

If you know the new primary coilpack is dead, using your voltmeter, at KOEO, check for B+ 12volts at it's electrical connector. If you don't have B+ there at KOEO, back up to the computer firewall connection & back probe it to see if you have B+ on the coilpack lead there. If you do, then you have a wiring problem between the firewall & coilpack connector or the connectors pins/sockets, if no B+ there, then the problem is in the firewall connector, or on the other side of the firewall.

A number of things can cause an overly rich air/fuel mixture & the trouble codes can offer up good clues on where best to look next & shorten your troubleshoot. If your air/fuel mixture is overly rich, you'll be fouling up the new plugs!!!! It's all a vicious circle!!!!!

Yes we need at least double platinum spark plugs & the new finewire iridium enhanced center electrode with platinum side wire plugs, fire at a lower voltage & last even longer than double platinum plugs, in our waste spark ignition systems. So the specified Motorcraft or Autolite plugs & wires are designed to take the double duty work load & work best on our Rangers.

More thoughts for consideration, keep us posted.

 

Agreed the learning process is priceless but can run into big money fast, be frustrating/stressful and exceedingly time consuming . If you allow it that stress/frustration can start to affect your performance at work (not a good thing). You probably get enough stress daily with your profession.. Hope you have a backup vehicle. Sometimes in spite of your best efforts you have to turn it over to a mechanic with all the tools/manuals available to find the cause. Know that is hard to do when you are determined to find the cause yourself but keep that thought in the back of your mind. Even with the code reader there is alot of troubleshooting involved once the code is spit out. Many times it's not the sensor but the wiring that feeds to the sensor. If you insist on solving yourself buy the code reader/or pull cluster replace check engine light bulb and read codes with bulb (see link below on cluster removal) and Ford shop manual with wiring diagram before shelling any more dollars out for parts. Also agree with Pawpaw on killing your cat with that glowing red exhaust.

1995-Current Ford Ranger Gauge Cluster Removal

 

Finally!! I broke down and spent a few dollars. Codes as best as I could tell. This is the first time I have ever used one of these devices, but here goes, in detail:

This is from an Actron Code Scanner:

KOEO TEST RESULTS:

3 beeps PAUSE 3 beeps PAUSE 3 beeps PAUSE

1 beep, and I think a pause, but not for sure

then a distinct 2 beeps PAUSE 1 beep PAUSE 8 beeps PAUSE

then another distinct 2 beeps PAUSE 1 beep PAUSE 8 beeps PAUSE

(I did this test twice and the same beep sequence occurred)

KOER TEST RESULTS:

9 beeps PAUSE 9 beeps PAUSE 8 beeps PAUSE

2 beeps PAUSE

1 beep PAUSE

8 beeps PAUSE 9 beeps PAUSE 9 beeps PAUSE

8 beeps PAUSE

2 beeps PAUSE

1 beep PAUSE

8 beeps PAUSE

Engine reved up real high.

(I did this process twice and got the same results. I couldn't try a third time because by that time the exhaust started turning orange as I have described before, and I would really like my new cat. converter to survive)

I think I can take from this code "218" from the KOEO test and maybe codes "998" and "899" from the KOER test?

Hopefully we can make sense of this, and I could always do it again!

 

Here is trouble code list. Code 218- IDM(Ignition Diagnostic Monitor) signal open or high or left coil pack failure. Code 998- Did not pass Key ON Engine Off test. Since you already replaced coil you need to concentrate on the IDM circuit troubleshooting . Next step getting your hands on a good manual (preferably Ford shop manual with wiring diagram). Another option head to your library and check their online auto repair databases. Check with the Reference Dept.for assistance. Most have either Mitchel's on Demand or Alldata. Hopefully either one would have the diagnostic steps to check that circuit.If not order a Ford shop manual. Possibly someone on here that has a manual can give you the step by step diagnosis for that circuit. Wouldn't be at all surprised if you find a wire with burned through insulation shorting to ground/or dead wire somewhere in that IDM circuit.

3-Digit Codes

 

Could this be related to the ignition control module, or do you know if it is more specific to the electrical wiring? I still cant believe that my Ranger is not equipped with a heat shield over the exhaust manifold. It gets hot under there and wiring that leads around the engine to the coils packs travel right above the exhaust manifold. Granted it is not touching the exhaust manifold, but I could see where after years and years of heat, that the wiring harness could be partially damaged.

Would a wiggle test work in this case? I think my scanner does them. I could wiggle some of the harnesses and see if anything happens.

I think I will do 2 things at this point, both of which are FREE. I am going to carry out a wiggle test and remove the ignition control module and have Autozone test it.