UNSUCCESS - my problems continue.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 966
Likes: 1
Do two freebies. The wiggle test( and eye test for obvious wire damage) and heading to library for those online repair databases and do the step by step diagnosing with voltage readings at various connectors listed to find the cause. There is no shortcut you have to go through the steps to narrow down the exact cause. Don't waste more money on throwing parts at it. Only one gaining anything is Autozone.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
Could this be related to the ignition control module, or do you know if it is more specific to the electrical wiring? I still cant believe that my Ranger is not equipped with a heat shield over the exhaust manifold. It gets hot under there and wiring that leads around the engine to the coils packs travel right above the exhaust manifold. Granted it is not touching the exhaust manifold, but I could see where after years and years of heat, that the wiring harness could be partially damaged.
Would a wiggle test work in this case? I think my scanner does them. I could wiggle some of the harnesses and see if anything happens.
I think I will do 2 things at this point, both of which are FREE. I am going to carry out a wiggle test and remove the ignition control module and have Autozone test it.
Would a wiggle test work in this case? I think my scanner does them. I could wiggle some of the harnesses and see if anything happens.
I think I will do 2 things at this point, both of which are FREE. I am going to carry out a wiggle test and remove the ignition control module and have Autozone test it.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Um, okay, I just went to remove the ICM and there was NOT a bolt head on the upper left corner of it. I think the bolt broke off, and the rest of the bolts are rusted and look pretty bad. Other than prying the ICM off, I am not sure how I could possibly get the thing off!
Plus, to make things worse, there are tight working quarters here because of the A/C compressor, and the bracket that the compressor and power steering pump is attached to. I already took that bracket off once while replacing the timing belt and it was a major pain in the you know what. But I could take the compressor off because I already drained the A/C system.
What should I do to get this thing off with that broken bolt?
Plus, to make things worse, there are tight working quarters here because of the A/C compressor, and the bracket that the compressor and power steering pump is attached to. I already took that bracket off once while replacing the timing belt and it was a major pain in the you know what. But I could take the compressor off because I already drained the A/C system.
What should I do to get this thing off with that broken bolt?
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Come to think of it, couldn't this cause a grounding issue? I dont see any ground wire coming out of the ICM, so I wonder if it does like the coils and grounds on the back of itself with a plate or something? I wonder if I could just ground the thing somehow without taking it off and seeing if the coils work and I get spark.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 966
Likes: 1
Pic in link only shows three bolts. Should be able to use a 3/8 drive socket wrench with proper size socket to remove. Could try hitting bolts with JB Blaster penetrate spray to help remove them. As Powersmoked stated it is grounded with the bolts and requires that special grease on the backside
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...96b43f802c545f
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...96b43f802c545f
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
Come to think of it, couldn't this cause a grounding issue? I dont see any ground wire coming out of the ICM, so I wonder if it does like the coils and grounds on the back of itself with a plate or something? I wonder if I could just ground the thing somehow without taking it off and seeing if the coils work and I get spark.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,533
Likes: 1
From: Dexter, MI
While you are at AutoZone, get your coil packs tested and pick up a set of Autolite AP104-PP double platinum spark plugs. They are Motorcraft with a different name and seem to run better than any other make of plug in Ranger engines.
By the way, could you include a picture of the special extension tool you use to change plugs. I am about ready to change plugs on my truck. Anything that will get those hard to reach plugs will be most welcome.
By the way, could you include a picture of the special extension tool you use to change plugs. I am about ready to change plugs on my truck. Anything that will get those hard to reach plugs will be most welcome.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 966
Likes: 1
While you are at AutoZone, get your coil packs tested and pick up a set of Autolite AP104-PP double platinum spark plugs. They are Motorcraft with a different name and seem to run better than any other make of plug in Ranger engines.
By the way, could you include a picture of the special extension tool you use to change plugs. I am about ready to change plugs on my truck. Anything that will get those hard to reach plugs will be most welcome.
By the way, could you include a picture of the special extension tool you use to change plugs. I am about ready to change plugs on my truck. Anything that will get those hard to reach plugs will be most welcome.
Michigan: Think he has already replaced the coils.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 0
From: Boston, MA
While you are at AutoZone, get your coil packs tested and pick up a set of Autolite AP104-PP double platinum spark plugs. They are Motorcraft with a different name and seem to run better than any other make of plug in Ranger engines.
By the way, could you include a picture of the special extension tool you use to change plugs. I am about ready to change plugs on my truck. Anything that will get those hard to reach plugs will be most welcome.
By the way, could you include a picture of the special extension tool you use to change plugs. I am about ready to change plugs on my truck. Anything that will get those hard to reach plugs will be most welcome.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
While you are at AutoZone, get your coil packs tested and pick up a set of Autolite AP104-PP double platinum spark plugs. They are Motorcraft with a different name and seem to run better than any other make of plug in Ranger engines.
By the way, could you include a picture of the special extension tool you use to change plugs. I am about ready to change plugs on my truck. Anything that will get those hard to reach plugs will be most welcome.
By the way, could you include a picture of the special extension tool you use to change plugs. I am about ready to change plugs on my truck. Anything that will get those hard to reach plugs will be most welcome.
Of course, really, if you already have a spark plug socket, with the rubber stopper, you could simply make your extension using your existing extensions - just stick em' together and use the special spark plug socket.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
After passing the wiggle test, I took off the ICM and had it tested at Autozone. It failed. I probably could have saved some dough if I would have sucked it up and bought a code reader to start with, but I look at it as now I have about changed out the ignition system. I bought a new ICM at Autozone for big bucks.
But I'm happy as can be. I knew right when I started the engine up it was firing on all cylinders. Then as soon as I took off I knew I completed the task! The acceleration felt like it used to back in the day.
Thanks for all ya'lls help, and don't worry I'm not going anywhere. I have a feeling I'll be a normal part of this forum because its fun to learn!
But I'm happy as can be. I knew right when I started the engine up it was firing on all cylinders. Then as soon as I took off I knew I completed the task! The acceleration felt like it used to back in the day.
Thanks for all ya'lls help, and don't worry I'm not going anywhere. I have a feeling I'll be a normal part of this forum because its fun to learn!
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 966
Likes: 1
Glad you got it fixed. Would have been a shame to spring for that ICM and have no improvement and be stuck with the part. Hate to ask but did you save any of your old parts (coils etc)? If so would keep around for spares. Never hurts to have a spare. Also were you sure to smear that grease on back of new ICM prior to install? Don't want to kill that new part.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Glad you got it fixed. Would have been a shame to spring for that ICM and have no improvement and be stuck with the part. Hate to ask but did you save any of your old parts (coils etc)? If so would keep around for spares. Never hurts to have a spare. Also were you sure to smear that grease on back of new ICM prior to install? Don't want to kill that new part.
I did smear that grease evenly on the back of the ICM. Thanks for the inquiry.
Now, I'm off to see if the new ICM solved the glowing orange exhaust system, or if that was a separate issue. I theorized that by having 2 cylinders not firing, most of the fuel was being sent out of exhaust valves unburned and being combusted in the exhaust system. If I drive it for 10 minutes and there is no glowing orange, then I was right. I had to wait until night time to run this visual test to be able to clearly see the color of the exhaust system.