Overhead display Fix
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Ft Worth
Overhead display Fix
I don't know how many vist the other forums on FTE so I thought I would add this post over here.
I did the proceedure outlined in this thread and fixed my lie-o-meter, which was going dim on me (just wasn't bright any more, hard to see in daylight).
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ad-consol.html
Ingman posted this proceedure he got off the site a while back. I thought I would help spread the word on how to fix it.
"I have this over head console fix that I got off this site a while back. I haven't tried it yet.
Good luck.
Here is the process to remove and repair the overhead console in your truck. Click on the red links for detailed photos.
First, you must remove the outer shell (colored to match the interior of your truck). There are five tension clips that hold the shell in place. Begin by pulling downward (I just use my fingers to prevent damage) on the front (toward windshield) of the shell. You must pull VERY hard - it feels like it will break, but has never happened to me, and I've done a few now.
Once the front two tension clips pop loose, you must release two "L" shaped tension clips that lock into the storage compartment. You can BARELY see the tips of the clips when looking inside the compartment. Use a flat head screwdriver or similar tool to push out on the clips until they release. I've also tried reaching above the outer shell to pull on these clips (rather than pushing from inside the storage compartment), but my hands are too big.
Once these two are released, there is one final tension clip on the rear that comes off fairly easily.
Next, you will see the black inner shell. First, unplug the wire harnesson the passenger side of the unit. Next, you must again pull from the front (toward the windshield) with force to release two additional tension clips. Finally, tiltthe unit downward to release the "L" bracket at the rear (the "L" shaped bracket slides into a hole in the roof - no pulling required).
Once you have the unit out, remove the circuit board from the inner shell by removing the three torx screws (I believe they are 8mm but I can't recall).
Once the circuit board is removed, locate the 7 chipson the circuit board behind the display. They are labeled 620 and 680. The two I most often find loose are the two in the center directly behind the display - but check them all. Once the loose chips are located, re-attach them using a soldering pen (DO NOT USE A SOLDERING GUN AS THEY ARE TOO HOT AND MAY DAMAGE THE CIRCUIT BOARD). If there is not sufficient solder already in place (often the case for me), add additional solder as needed.
Now test the display by pluggingin just the board in your truck and turn the key. If all works, put the board back on the inner shell and then replace the inner shell and plug in the wire harness. Then snap the outer shell in place and enjoy!
Check out my gallery for additional photos. If you find the chips are not the problem and the board is actually dead, check out ebay or similar locations to find a better deal than the $500 the dealer wants. I've never had luck at scrap yards, but you might try those also. Finally, if you really can't find one, drop me a message and I'll see if I have any left from prior bulk purchases made prior to discovering the above repair procedure.
Let me know if you have additional questions and good luck! ffice
ffice" "<O
</O
<O
Very easy project and now my display is bright again!
</O<!-- / message -->
I did the proceedure outlined in this thread and fixed my lie-o-meter, which was going dim on me (just wasn't bright any more, hard to see in daylight).
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ad-consol.html
Ingman posted this proceedure he got off the site a while back. I thought I would help spread the word on how to fix it.
"I have this over head console fix that I got off this site a while back. I haven't tried it yet.
Good luck.
Here is the process to remove and repair the overhead console in your truck. Click on the red links for detailed photos.
First, you must remove the outer shell (colored to match the interior of your truck). There are five tension clips that hold the shell in place. Begin by pulling downward (I just use my fingers to prevent damage) on the front (toward windshield) of the shell. You must pull VERY hard - it feels like it will break, but has never happened to me, and I've done a few now.
Once the front two tension clips pop loose, you must release two "L" shaped tension clips that lock into the storage compartment. You can BARELY see the tips of the clips when looking inside the compartment. Use a flat head screwdriver or similar tool to push out on the clips until they release. I've also tried reaching above the outer shell to pull on these clips (rather than pushing from inside the storage compartment), but my hands are too big.
Once these two are released, there is one final tension clip on the rear that comes off fairly easily.
Next, you will see the black inner shell. First, unplug the wire harnesson the passenger side of the unit. Next, you must again pull from the front (toward the windshield) with force to release two additional tension clips. Finally, tiltthe unit downward to release the "L" bracket at the rear (the "L" shaped bracket slides into a hole in the roof - no pulling required).
Once you have the unit out, remove the circuit board from the inner shell by removing the three torx screws (I believe they are 8mm but I can't recall).
Once the circuit board is removed, locate the 7 chipson the circuit board behind the display. They are labeled 620 and 680. The two I most often find loose are the two in the center directly behind the display - but check them all. Once the loose chips are located, re-attach them using a soldering pen (DO NOT USE A SOLDERING GUN AS THEY ARE TOO HOT AND MAY DAMAGE THE CIRCUIT BOARD). If there is not sufficient solder already in place (often the case for me), add additional solder as needed.
Now test the display by pluggingin just the board in your truck and turn the key. If all works, put the board back on the inner shell and then replace the inner shell and plug in the wire harness. Then snap the outer shell in place and enjoy!
Check out my gallery for additional photos. If you find the chips are not the problem and the board is actually dead, check out ebay or similar locations to find a better deal than the $500 the dealer wants. I've never had luck at scrap yards, but you might try those also. Finally, if you really can't find one, drop me a message and I'll see if I have any left from prior bulk purchases made prior to discovering the above repair procedure.
Let me know if you have additional questions and good luck! ffice
ffice" "<O</O<O
Very easy project and now my display is bright again!
</O<!-- / message -->
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 278
Likes: 1
From: Latrobe PA
Got a fix for the compass ? it's fine in the AM when it's cold but as soon as it warms up all I have is the square around the direction. I re-soldiered all the chips and it made it bright but the compass is still intermittent.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,885
Likes: 26
From: Chino, California
I wonder if you need to recalibrate it? If I recall, there was a section in the owner's manual on how to do it.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 440
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From: Ft Worth
Chazman, I don't have a fix for the compass. I was just lucky to find the post on how to fix the display if it is dim or gone all together. I would try and re-aligning it also. Good luck! Let us know if that works. Edit: looks like DPorter didn't have luck with recaling it. I wonder if there is a loose connection in the connector? or somewhere else on the circuit board.
RMBC, thanks!
RMBC, thanks!
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 576
Likes: 6
From: midland, Ontario
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 289
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From: Miami, FL
to recalibrate, go to a big lot. hold both buttons down until it goes into calibrate mode. It will ask you to select your section (owners guide has the US diveded by sections so you know which is yours).
Once selected, slowly drive in a complete circle until the CAL light goes out
Once selected, slowly drive in a complete circle until the CAL light goes out
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 278
Likes: 1
From: Latrobe PA
The compass is not dim when it works. When the direction goes away the square box around the cardinal point stays. bright as the rest of the display.
I've checked and rechecked connections and chips.
I've checked and rechecked connections and chips.
New User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 10
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From: Marietta - Metro Atlanta
Variation for 2004 Excursion
Awesome DIY fix posted!
At first glance, the 620/680 chips looked fine :-( , but I took off my glasses, and saw one loose chip, then found three more to come loose with a gentle tug of my fingernail. Voilà! Soldered 'em all back on.
Put 'er back together, and now the LED is bright and clear now.
But I have a variation to the fix listed above - this is for a 2004 Excursion w/Eddie Baurer trim: the two center-area tension clips are now replaced with a single philips head screw in the forward storage (sunglasses) compartment. Drop the screw, then the last tension clip at rear of overhead cosole, and she came right down, hanging by the three connector cables.
Again, GREAT instructions! Now, did I unplug that soldering iron... !?
At first glance, the 620/680 chips looked fine :-( , but I took off my glasses, and saw one loose chip, then found three more to come loose with a gentle tug of my fingernail. Voilà! Soldered 'em all back on.
Put 'er back together, and now the LED is bright and clear now.
But I have a variation to the fix listed above - this is for a 2004 Excursion w/Eddie Baurer trim: the two center-area tension clips are now replaced with a single philips head screw in the forward storage (sunglasses) compartment. Drop the screw, then the last tension clip at rear of overhead cosole, and she came right down, hanging by the three connector cables.
Again, GREAT instructions! Now, did I unplug that soldering iron... !?
Last edited by BenLowers; Jul 6, 2011 at 10:11 PM. Reason: typos
