hello guys. just did this to my 1974 ford f-100 ranger xlt w/o a/c 2wd auto. yours might be or might not be same but this is intended to show a general uninstall of the assembly to get to the heatercore or blowermotor. i dont know if i did it the right way but i got it done so i took some pictures as i was going through it myself.

UNDER THE HOOD:::
you have to disconnect the following.
1)Red wire for blowermotor
2)black wire fore blowermotor
3)two heater hoses
4)three bolts holding the whole assembly on the firewall.




usually easier said then done i had to cut mine off...


3bolts 2 around the blowermotor on behind the carb 9/16th

 

INSIDE THE CAR:::
1) the vent box (has 5 screws all around it)
2) cable connectors to the duck system
3) connector





after this is done its ready to come out... you would have to play with it (thats what she said ) and wiggle it out. i flipped out my carpeting so it would be easier...
SIDENOTE watch the firewall insulation as i ripped mine to hell bec i got to pull happy...

biggest challenge is getting the duck cable connector around the dash bottom.


all this will be easier if you have access from your glove box. mine came like this so it was already out.

 

ONCE ITS OUT::::
1) heatercore's cover had 4 screws, then pull off then pull out heaercore
2) blowermotor has 2 screws and 2 bolts then pull out.







THIS IS WHAT I FOUND IN MINE.. could be why it wasnt heating properly or why blowermotor burnt out.




installation is reversed steps. lol i am still going to paint and clean out mine. and buying new blowermotor and heatercore.

 

Hey that's a great write up man. Thanks!

 

One thing you should always do is blow through the heater core after you get the hoses off, that saves you from getting antifreeze all over the floor in the cab.

 

okay so before i put it all back i decided to wire brush the metal part of the assembly. which is the side that faces the firewall. it was pretty good with the surface rust... so i just brushed it all down and laid 2 coats of one step rust stopper from a rattle can... didnt have to be perfect just enough to cover the metal and stop the rust... it came out pretty nice actually...

blower motor plate before

wire brushed

done

 

same thing with the assembly box and the heater core cover.
painted



heres the new heater core installed w/o the cover yet. (still drying)


AND heres the finished product!!!!!!

new heatercore and blowermotor.
blower motor only comes just the motor you have to use hardware and cage from old one.
heatercore there is 2 different kinds of "regular" ones... i pick the one with more fins to get the most heat from it. there another one that has more of a frame to it. so its smaller in a sense.

OH SIDE NOTE!!!!!!
the only difference there is between a "high output" heater core and a "regular" hrater core is an inch. the high output is longer. you can see in the following picture that i have a regular one and notice the space at the bottom.


i had asked that question with the NJ chapter and they just told me if it said High Output on my dash then that was the system i was using.. but i got to the bottom of what was the actual difference. the blower motor stays the same... High Output option came with and without a/c...

i also took the time to install new heater hoses and clamps since i was doing that.. i made them longer where they go from the firewall on to the fender back to the front of the motor. i always liked it away from the heat of the motor.

last thing i did was make sure everything was put back to its spot... the firewall patting that i had ripped before i put gorilla tape to hold it in place while everything was getting put back. (didnt take picture of that i was cold at this point and just wanted to finish). and ran the truck for half hour. then let it cool down then refilled anti-freeze. ran again then filled as needed. blows hot air now instead of warm... and fan works without making all kinds of noises.

 

Great job on the write up and I'm happy to see that you refurbished the parts you reused before installation. That will help it to last another 30+ years!

 

brewski... ya i usually do that with anything i have to put back together. i will always add my touch or try to improve it. its only the right thing to do. you know. like i said NO ONE is going to know its there but i do and thats comforting.

 

nicely done restoration on the box heres a link to my restore on my 71's pics are on second page i haven't put it back together as after i spray painted all the metal parts i decided to send them out to be powder coated instead since i had some other parts i was sending out already and mise well get a durable long lasting finish

 

Thank you for putting this up. This is just the info I need.