first of all i bought the truck yesterday ran great now today couldnt get started look at my first post to see details heres the link... any help with that is very much appreciated

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-think-2.html


second of all i need to know what a good battery set up is? (such as the cold crankin amps and whatever) i dont need them right now but i would like to get some now just cause they are older and not the best

third i would like to know as much about my truck as possible so here is a few question... what is the rear gear ratio? what size are the axles? and what is my automatic trans is it a 3speed?

the truck is 87' f250 4x4

 

congrats.
diesels need to turn over really fast to start good.
start with 2 matching batteries that are rated at least 850CCA(1000CA)
followed by cleaning all the terminals,the other end of the wires as well such the block grounds and the starter connection.
you'll know when the engine spins fast enough,because you wont be able to count the revolutions while cranking.

on the drivers side door jam is a sticker.get the axle code and look it up here:
http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cata...s_it_posi.html

the 3 speed auto is the C6 trans.
a temp gauge and an external cooler is a good place to start with that trans because the converter doesn't lock up.since its always slipping,this generates heats.

 

You need two 850CCA (or larger) batteries, and they need to be a matched pair (same age and overall condition).

Your 3-spd automatic transmission is the C6 model.

The gear ratio should be listed under "axle" as a number-letter code on the driver-side door jamb sticker. You can also locate the metal tag that is attached to one of the differential cover bolts on the rear axle, it will read something like "3 55" or "3L55" or "4 10" or "4L10".

On the no-start conditions someone else will elaborate, as I am having one helluva headache from the 36-pack I killed in the afternoon, and I just cannot focus right now...

 

To test the lift pump, unhook the wire on top of the ip so that it will not start. Then with a clean container check the flow rate at the schrader valve on the fuel filter head. Have someone crank it over as you catch the fuel in the container. It should have 1/3 of a pint in 10 seconds. The pressure should be around 7 pounds I think. Before you do all this tho, pull the filter off and see if it is full to the top with fuel. If not you have air intrusion problems. Most likely the return lines, caps and o-rings. Not an expensive fix. If the fuel pump and filter check out fine check for fuel at all the injectors by cracking the line nuts loose as you turn it over. Don't run the starter for more than 30 seconds and give it about 10 minutes to cool down after each try.

 

15-20 seconds max crank duration.2 min cool down between cranks.

objective;
everything working like new should = well under 10 seconds first crank attempt around 0 degree's without block heater assist and remain running smoothly with white smoke clearing from the exhaust in just a couple mins.

 

Thnx for the fix.

 

I have heard good things about International batteries.

Are you sure there is fuel in the tank and the fuel gauge is not lying to you?

 

we didnt know for sure if there was fuel in the tank the filter was full but we went out and got some anyways but it still didnt fire

 

Wrong place, sorry.

 

so i tested the schrader valve or whatever it is. should it be pumping fuel out right as i start cranking it or should it come out after a few rotations? because thats what it did

 

I would imagine it would start flowing fairly soon after cranking it. Should be a few seconds at most after you hit the key. How was the fuel flow?

 

seemed fine but i couldnt do it to long because it was just me doing it and i couldnt tell that easy. once i get help ill do it again and see what happens

 

If it was running fine the other day and suddenly won't start then a few things come to mind.
1. Air intrusion entering the lines. Did ya look in the engine bay any happen to move the rubber fuel lines running between the injectors? If ya did, chances are you moved the lines enough to break the o-ring seal. If so, the solution is to buy an Injector Installation Kit. 6.9 Ford Diesel parts Fuel Injection Turbocharger
But, IF and only IF your plastic injector caps and return lines/hoses are in great condition, then you could just replace the injector o-rings with Viton o-rings. I'm sure somebody can tell you the size, otherwise there is another thread running with the size I think. I don't know, I didn't read it yet...
2. If you had about 1/4 tank of fuel, chances are the fuel pickup broke off the fuel sending unit and is laying on the bottom of the tank. No worries, it's common, my 2 IDI's had that issue. Solution is to cut a length of rubber fuel hose to slip and clamp over the sending unit and be just long enough to reach and collect fuel from the bottom of the tank. Be sure to cut a V in the bottom of the hose to prevent the hose from sucking itself to the tank.
I say add another 5 gallons of fuel and it will probably make a difference. I was working with Turbill on his truck about a month ago and we were struggling. We added 5 gallons of fuel, then tried starting it. We tried everything to get it going, then DUH, light-bulb went off! We added another 5 gallons and she fired right up...
3. Check to be sure you have power at the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid on the IP. It must have power when the key is on. When the key is off, it should not have power. The power opens it up and allows fuel to flow through the IP and to the injectors. See here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...captioned.html
4. Do you have dual fuel tanks? And if so, did you flip the switch?
5. How long does the Wait to Start light stay on? Should be about 10 seconds on a cold start. Check your glow plugs. I'm not positive on the operation of the 87-94 GP harness, but read through the sticky at the top of this forum and that should get you straightened out. But, take a test light and check each glow plug. Put the alligator clip on the positive terminal and probe each glow plug. If it lights, chances are it's good. If it doesn't light, it's a dead plug. With the newer system, if you've got 1 or more bad plugs, the Wait To Start lights doesn't come on long...which means the Glow Plugs aren't firing for long either.

 

holy crap! i have been waiting for someone like you to come along with all this info thank you so much! on #1 i didnt mess with the injectors or lines at all so probably not that one. #2 sounds perfect seeing that my gas gauge was reading about 1/4 tank at the end of the day. i have already added 5 more gallons so maybe ill try and see if that hose fell off in the tank. that would be nice it thats all it was! #3 i will check also #4 i do have dual tanks but i left it on the first one seeing thats the only one with fuel in it. #5 my wait to start light dosent come on but im pretty sure that because the plugs are set to a button and im pretty sure some are burn out but they are autolites and im scared to take em out. thank you so much blueovalbud! i will try everything you said tomorrow and let you know how it works out

 

you need a good set of 8 motorcraft (made by Beru) glow plugs which glow for around 10 seconds cold start (above freezing) and roughly 14 seconds at 32 degrees and less.
otherwise,she wont fire up easy,and you'll be wearing out your starter needlessly.