Bullet Proofing Intermediate Drive saft
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Evanston,Wyo
Bullet Proofing Intermediate Drive saft
I have a mildly built 390 in my dent and I have had problems with breaking yokes and U-joints on my Intermediate drive saft. I have owned 4 F250 Dents that were 4x4's and never had this problem until now. What is the best route other then high dollar U-joints to cure and make this week link more reliable. I thought about heavier duty yokes, but haven't known anyone who has put beefier yokes on there Dent. I use my truck for hunting, and hauling timber, I never abuse or needlessly hot rod the truck, I am just at my wits end and frustrated that when ever I need to get out of a sticky situation and have to give her a little gas that Damn intermediate yoke breaks or EXPLODES!!!!!!!!!!! Getting sick of paying six states $150 bucks for yokes and rebuilt Saft. Any opinions or thoughts would be great,
Thanks fella's
Thanks fella's
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Joined: May 2010
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Do you know what size yokes you have? Are they 1310, 1330? The 79 F250 and 350 Trucks went to 1330 joints and yokes. Maybe up-sizing if you have the 1310s.
1330 series Spicer greaseable universal joint fits all with 1330 series driveshaft(I'm not endorsing this site, it just has measurements)
You can even go to 1350 or 1410 sizes. I think the yokes are interchangable, you just need shaft size and spline and outer yoke sized where the seal rides. The disadvantage for larger joints, besides the price, is that larger joints cannot have high angles.
If they are failing without putting a load on them, there may be some other issues, like bad angles, bushings letting the transmission or transfer case move around.
1330 series Spicer greaseable universal joint fits all with 1330 series driveshaft(I'm not endorsing this site, it just has measurements)
You can even go to 1350 or 1410 sizes. I think the yokes are interchangable, you just need shaft size and spline and outer yoke sized where the seal rides. The disadvantage for larger joints, besides the price, is that larger joints cannot have high angles.
If they are failing without putting a load on them, there may be some other issues, like bad angles, bushings letting the transmission or transfer case move around.
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Evanston,Wyo
Tranny and motor mounts are brand new, probably less then 2000 miles on them, order from Jeff's Bronco Grave Yard. The Yokes hold the 1310 U-joint, so maybe I will have to look into swapping out to some 1330 Yokes and U-bolts, just would like to find someone who has done it and can verify it's effectiveness, as well as where they purchased there parts.
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Evanston,Wyo
Fordsrgrt, WOW those 1350's would be for a one ton RIGHT????? Can you tell me some part numbers or some info so I may do some priceing and find out a little more info. What year is your truck????? I would love this set up, how difficult was it to do and what did it cost you?????????
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From: Ideeho
I dont know anything about the conversion, but I'd say six-states would be able to help you out. At least in my area they are pretty knowledgable. Even if you have to upgrade yokes to accept the bigger u-joints; I'd bet they can come up with a good combo.
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It has to be something simple like alignment or otherwise. There are thousands of mildly built FE 4X4 trucks that do not experience problems.
I drag raced with a 1310 u-joint behind a near 600 horsepower 427 (454 CI) and it held up.
Josh
I drag raced with a 1310 u-joint behind a near 600 horsepower 427 (454 CI) and it held up.
Josh
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: clinton iowa
getting everything switched over on mine was not cheap.the total cost for having everything done was about a $1100.having a c-6 and a dana 24 TC. added alot to the cost as they both take a course splined yoke (10spline),which are over a $100 a piece for the 10 spline yokes x4,lol,but worth the piece of mind.
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