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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 02:04 AM
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Plumbing/heating question

I just moved to a new (to me) house with hydronic baseboard heat.
I can hear bubbles coursing through the system and there are certain areas that seem too cool.
There are no bleeders anywhere. It's freezing and I really don't have the place to purge the whole system.
Could I use saddle/needle valves at the high points to get the air out for the time being, until the heating season is over and I can fix it right?

Thanks in advance for any expert advice.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 09:50 AM
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Usually there are bleeders by the units them selves. There should be a bleeder at the boiler itself.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 09:57 AM
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pedant
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No there is no seperator or bleeder on the boiler.
Not a scoop or even the little brass can with a valve stem that looks like an oil pressure sender.
This place is built like ****.

How would I get air from the second floor down to the boiler anyhow?
It seems like the water is just flowing along the bottom half of the tubes in my bedroom.
And making lots of wooshing, gurgling sounds while doing it.
At least the thermostat isn't in there or it would never stop calling for heat.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 02:47 PM
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It seems to me that that should work. It is a water boiler and not a steam boiler, right?. I would place the saddle valves where you will put the bleeders. Best, CB
 
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Old Jan 13, 2011 | 03:03 PM
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pedant
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It is just hot water slant fin, fine line 30.

I'm used to seeing bleed elbows where the riser comes up out of the floor.

I have no idea how to get air from three floors up into the basement without isolating the boiler, opening the drain and the fill.
Maybe then I could push it all out, but then I'd be replacing the coolant with aerated water and this too would eventually end up at the top, wouldn't it?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 01:56 PM
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there should be a vent at each heat exchanger. is the system copper? I would try maybe a icemaker tap valve in the line after the fins. I did that to my one houses where the hot water heating system was improperly installed. all my systems are water fed, not coolant fed. you could be low on water, and the system can't self bleed. are there any guages on your boiler?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 02:09 PM
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pedant
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Thanks Charlie,
Originally Posted by dustybumpers
there should be a vent at each heat exchanger.
But there isn't.
Originally Posted by dustybumpers
is the system copper?
Yes, Slantfin, as stated above.
Originally Posted by dustybumpers
I would try maybe a icemaker tap valve in the line after the fins. I did that to my one houses where the hot water heating system was improperly installed.
Exactly what I'm suggesting. So, it worked for you?
I posed the Q? to see if there was a reason NOT to.
Originally Posted by dustybumpers
all my systems are water fed, not coolant fed. you could be low on water, and the system can't self bleed. are there any guages on your boiler?
There is a boiler fill and gauges. Everything seems normal downstairs, psi, temp, elevation.
I cracked the boiler drain and pink came out. I assume some kind of glycol. There's a backflow check valve so I doubt any could contaminate the drinking supply in the event of a main break or other drop in pressure.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 02:31 PM
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it's probably rv antifreeze. the only problem, would be if the rubber didn't seal on the tapping valve, you then would have a leak to fix properly. you do know when you get the air out you will have to add some water, just watch the guages, and keep them where they are now. the one rental house was never warm until I put in the tapping valves, man, after I got all the air out, it would roast you for half the oil used. win, win.
 
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