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All is good info so far... But something needs to be nipped in the bud, its something somebody made up, and doesnt do anything... That is backing the bolts off in sequence... I zipped my heads off without paying attention, didnt do anything, and there is many more setups out there and not that are the same way...
I idea of the sequence of torquing is to lay the head on the gasket evenly, and thats it... The casting itself is plenty strong to take the forces of the bolts... Unless you plan to reuse the HG's and not pull the heads, in which you have to do one bolt/stud at a time, the reverse sequence is over-****, and unecessary...
Just sayin'
Backing the bolts off in sequence...are you refering to pulling the stock head bolts out? Or when you back off the nut when untorquing and retorquing, on the head stud install? Sorry just a lil confused
Got my studs the other day, gonna put it in the shop tuesday...sooo. Im gonna torque the heads in 4 sequences to 110lb. like 70 80 90 110.
let me get this staight before I mess up lol. I torque to 70lbs. then back the nut off, then torque up to 80lbs. and repeat untill I get to 110. sound good?? I want to get this right the first time, thats what all the ?'s are for
In sequential order and in 4 steps, you bring the torque up to the 110ftlb. Then in reverse order you back them all down in steps. Finally you do the process all over again 4 more times to complete the process properly. This is necessary and recommended by ARP. The process not only properly seats the head and gasket to the deck of the block, but also seats the threads and brings up the studs to their yield evenly to prevent any future failure.
125ft/lbs is just fine for the studs. Mine are at 150 ft/lbs...
Remember, the more clamp load you have, the less of a chance you will have of gasket problems... Only thing that keeps me from going even higher yet is breaking a stud.
let me get this staight before I mess up lol. I torque to 70lbs. then back the nut off, then torque up to 80lbs. and repeat untill I get to 110. sound good?? I want to get this right the first time, thats what all the ?'s are for
NO!
you do each torque sequence in a row, do not do any backing off.
so you follow the torque sequence, then once you reach your 'max" torque number, you just break loose the nuts on the studs and do the whole process another 3 or 4 times?
so you follow the torque sequence, then once you reach your 'max" torque number, you just break loose the nuts on the studs and do the whole process another 3 or 4 times?
What the hell are you guys talking about.
I've read this repeatedly to try to understand what you're doing.
follow the ARP sequence and steps, and if you want to go over, go over by about 5lbs at a time.
well I'm curious if you're confusing what a lot of the oil burners, and some people here used to say..
Having to torque and loosen like 4 or 5 times to break the thread in. If you use ARP lube there is absolutely no need for that, it will hit target clamp load on the first set.
Yes double that on the arp lube. I talked to their factory rep when I did mine. he said there lube will keep the stud's in place and still alow for easy removal just get them snug with the allen wrench, as you torque the head in place some of the stud's will tighten into the block a littel more as you bring it up to your desired ft #'s, pretty easy job to do with the engine out.
Yes double that on the arp lube. I talked to their factory rep when I did mine. he said there lube will keep the stud's in place and still alow for easy removal just get them snug with the allen wrench, as you torque the head in place some of the stud's will tighten into the block a littel more as you bring it up to your desired ft #'s, pretty easy job to do with the engine out.
You NEVER snug ARP head studs with any tool. Finger tight only.
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