This was a lot less confusing when I asked the details

100 or 110, sounds like it's your call. As long as you do the 4x install and loosen procedure, you'll be fine.

 

All right, i'm doin 100 pounds in 4 steps, 4 different times. The complete 4 steps for times there and back, with one final step up to 100 pounds, right? 70, 80, 90, 100 will that work?

 

Do it and you should be golden!

 

good call thanks man!!!

 

Im about to have to stud mine, but Im not pulling the engine...is it possible to do it with the engine in the truck, yes it will be harder I know but I dont have the time to pull the motor

 

I am pretty sure its possible. You should start a stud thread and post pictures of doing it! When I get my turbo, i plan on studding mine. Hard to believe I can make my stud even more of a stud but my truck just keeps on surprising me

 

Yes, that's how I did mine. I didn't have the equipment to pull my engine. You'll need to remove the insulated piece of plastic that's over the firewall, and remove the heater/AC assembly. There are some more tips and tricks to do it without any issues or mishaps, but I'm headed out the door right now. I'll post more after work.

 

thanks, I was looking at the plastic cover over the evaporator and it will defently need to be taken off. At least I think

 

A few of the back studs you will need to put them in the head and secure them with tape priior to installing the heads. Chase all your threads first and remember the studs are only FINGER tight. You can do this with just the HVAC cover removed.

 

As said above, use tape or rubber bands to hold the studs in the head.

I will tell you now; It is much easier to get a couple of buddies over, have them hold a 2x4 over the engine bay with the chain held in the middle with a nail and use that to pull and set the heads. I scratched one headgasket using a hoist, and those are not cheap. Much easier having a couple good friends lowering it while you set it in place.

Untorque and torque the heads in order, so you don't damage anything taking them off, or putting them on. As stated in earlier in the thread, I torqued mine to 110ft lbs. Planning on running a good turbo setup down the line (which life has STILL been in the way of).

Your call on how tight you want to torque them down in the end, but the worst part of doing it in the truck is you need to torque them in 3-4 steps, untorque them in the reverse, and repeat the whole process 3 times. Ends up with you clicking a torque wrench over 1000 times, and sore arms, but it's bulletproof. If you don't do this, you're wasting your money and should just install bolts. Pre-stretching new studs will make them last a lifetime.

You will need a flex attachment and a deep and shallow socket with your torque wrench to install in the truck. They will alter your torque readings, but not by enough to really affect the outcome, but double check everything when you're done.

 

All is good info so far... But something needs to be nipped in the bud, its something somebody made up, and doesnt do anything... That is backing the bolts off in sequence... I zipped my heads off without paying attention, didnt do anything, and there is many more setups out there and not that are the same way...

I idea of the sequence of torquing is to lay the head on the gasket evenly, and thats it... The casting itself is plenty strong to take the forces of the bolts... Unless you plan to reuse the HG's and not pull the heads, in which you have to do one bolt/stud at a time, the reverse sequence is over-****, and unecessary...

Just sayin'

 

Honestly, coming in to it all from working on nothing but gassers, I've just played it safe. So many random warnings and old wives tales throughout the internet, but if they're at factory torque specs, probably not going to have a problem. Never had any issues personally, but I just won't take the chance when in a bad situation where I 'might' damage something.

Hell, for the amount of folks crying wolf to manage SCAs on a 6.9 on here, when that's a 7.3 issue, I've still started out babying my 6.9, and will just play it safe as far as that goes, although after more research finding it isn't needed...

 

hanks for the info, ill let yal know if I run into any problems. Ill be getting this done asap, I dont like the idea of running my truck with a leaking HG

 

Yeah, no good will come out of running it. Mine overheated so bad it warped the head; Installed the bad head without knowing, did all the work to stud it, and blew the new HG as soon as it fired up.
Had to buy a straight edge to check it, find a replacement head, pull that apart and rebuild it, and then redo the entire installation... Major pain in the ***.

 

major pain in the *** sounds about right, mine isnt that bad yet. It hasnt overheated but I can see coolant leaking down the side of the block