1986 F250 4x4 Conversion

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Jan 11, 2011 | 11:19 PM

#31

dohc_chump

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From: In the garage

I went and did my own measuring and a 1/2 ton coil sprung D44 should fit under a 2wd F250. So in short, if you want to do the Chevy knuckle conversion, you can fit a factory F150 axle under there and retain your 8 lug wheels. You could even skip the knuckle swap and switch to a 5 lug 8.8 or 9" rear. I took measurements off a 4wd '85 Bronco, an '81 2wd F150, and a 2wd '80 F350. Here are the pics as well.

1980 F350 2wd

1985 Bronco D44

1981 F150 2wd (Sorry I don't have a good pic for this, but the p.o. bent the front cross member down using it for a tow point)

Hope this clears some of this up.

Jan 12, 2011 | 08:59 AM

#32

82F100SWB

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From: Dryden, ON, Canada

In theory the F150 TTB should bolt into a TIB F250 or 350, with the chevy outer swap you will get 8 lugs, but the chevy calipers are about equivalent to F150 stuff, so there is a minor downgrade in front braking capacity associated with this.

The only reason I say in theory is I don't know of anyone who has done the swap yet.

Jan 12, 2011 | 09:14 AM

#33

bashby

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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va

Quote:

Originally Posted by Franklin2

I always knew there was a problem with the front, but didn't know what it was till I looked on the web a little bit. Someone I think already mentioned it in this thread, the frame is boxed on the front of a 4x4 frame, and a 2wd frame is a open "C". So the front shackel has nothing to swing from with no support on both sides without welding in some sort of support.

I think I would seriously look at the shackle conversion kit and see if it would work ok. Unless you can mount the factory shackle and add some support to it.

Thats what I was saying in my post on page 1, if you mount the front spring shackle like factory, (cut the frame and have the shackle inside the "C" of the frame) it looks like a lot of work, but if you you mount the shackle under the frame or do the flip thing where you put the front shackle in the rear it would be easier, but then you get a couple inches of lift. I think you would have to do the entire swap, put wheels and tires on and see how the truck sits to determine how much to raise the rear to match. I want to convert my plow/dump truck but I dont want any lift.

Jan 12, 2011 | 09:31 AM

#34

Franklin2

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From: Virginia

Quote:

Originally Posted by bashby

The biggest thing that turns me off with the 2wd frame is strength. I found a picture on the web where someone did cut the "C" and mount the shackle up in the frame, without doing any boxing or re-enforcement. Even if you did some sort of flip or did something and mounted the spring mount on the bottom of the "C", I don't think it would be strong enough long term. You are supporting the whole weight of the frontend, and steering the truck around turns on the highway with that mount. If you look at the rear portion of the frame where it is a open "C", all the cross-members have bracing that tie both the top and bottom of the "C" to the cross-member to keep it from twisting and spread the load more evenly on the frame "C".

I think I would add a homemade cross-member going from one frame rail to the other if I was converting a 2wd frame, to give it strength in that area in the front.