298 intake ?
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From: Sandy Level
298 intake ?
I have a 4v intake from I know a 289 It needs cleaning really good. I left the numbers at home or I would post them but what numbers are the hipo #s. My other questions how would yall go about cleaning the inside of the intake? I'm going to take a wire brush and put it on a drill to clean it? Any other sugestions.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2007
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From: British Columbia
The regular 4V 289 and Hipo 289 used the same intake manifold. To clean items like this I hook up a garden hose to my hot water tank so I have hot wash water outside. Warm the intake up with the hot water, then spray it with oven cleaner and use a scrub brush.
The oven cleaner is caustic soda aka sodium hydroxide, which is the material they used to use in "hot tanks". I recommend eye protection for this job as the cleaner invariably gets flicked about by the brush. If you get it on your skin, neutralize it with a little vinegar then rinse off.
The sheet metal cover on the bottom should be removed to clean under it. It is held on by "drive screws" which are a bit of a chore to remove.
The oven cleaner is caustic soda aka sodium hydroxide, which is the material they used to use in "hot tanks". I recommend eye protection for this job as the cleaner invariably gets flicked about by the brush. If you get it on your skin, neutralize it with a little vinegar then rinse off.
The sheet metal cover on the bottom should be removed to clean under it. It is held on by "drive screws" which are a bit of a chore to remove.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 419
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From: Sandy Level
The regular 4V 289 and Hipo 289 used the same intake manifold. To clean items like this I hook up a garden hose to my hot water tank so I have hot wash water outside. Warm the intake up with the hot water, then spray it with oven cleaner and use a scrub brush.
The oven cleaner is caustic soda aka sodium hydroxide, which is the material they used to use in "hot tanks". I recommend eye protection for this job as the cleaner invariably gets flicked about by the brush. If you get it on your skin, neutralize it with a little vinegar then rinse off.
The sheet metal cover on the bottom should be removed to clean under it. It is held on by "drive screws" which are a bit of a chore to remove.
The oven cleaner is caustic soda aka sodium hydroxide, which is the material they used to use in "hot tanks". I recommend eye protection for this job as the cleaner invariably gets flicked about by the brush. If you get it on your skin, neutralize it with a little vinegar then rinse off.
The sheet metal cover on the bottom should be removed to clean under it. It is held on by "drive screws" which are a bit of a chore to remove.
thanks for the reply How would you go about clean the inside meaning in the journals.
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From: Sandy Level
I still want as specfic. There is rust inside the intake. How can I can this out?
The intake is going on the motor no matter what as the intake is the only thing I have from my Grandfather's collection of cars he had. Granny scraped them when he died and my father got it of the car for my merc which was his then when I was two.
The intake is going on the motor no matter what as the intake is the only thing I have from my Grandfather's collection of cars he had. Granny scraped them when he died and my father got it of the car for my merc which was his then when I was two.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,071
Likes: 36
From: British Columbia
"How would you go about clean the inside meaning in the journals."
Journals are bearing surfaces. Perhaps you mean passages?
To clean rust out the part should be redi-stripped or equivalent. A radiator shop might do this for you. The process is to clean in a caustic tank, then hydrochloric acid tank, then neutralize in the caustic tank once more.
The caustic tank removes paint, oil and grease etc.
Rust is not removed in the caustic tank. That is why it needs to go in the acid tank. Residual acid is a very bad thing, so afterward the piece goes into the caustic tank again for neutralizing.
Another way to remove rust is by glass beading, but if this route is chosen extreme diligence must be taken to insure no beads remain after the part is installed. So the sheet metal cover on the bottom must be removed, and the part thoroughly cleaned to remove all oil and grease which will hold onto grit particles.
Such cleaning can be done with the oven cleaner yourself or through a commercial jet-washer at a shop.
Journals are bearing surfaces. Perhaps you mean passages?
To clean rust out the part should be redi-stripped or equivalent. A radiator shop might do this for you. The process is to clean in a caustic tank, then hydrochloric acid tank, then neutralize in the caustic tank once more.
The caustic tank removes paint, oil and grease etc.
Rust is not removed in the caustic tank. That is why it needs to go in the acid tank. Residual acid is a very bad thing, so afterward the piece goes into the caustic tank again for neutralizing.
Another way to remove rust is by glass beading, but if this route is chosen extreme diligence must be taken to insure no beads remain after the part is installed. So the sheet metal cover on the bottom must be removed, and the part thoroughly cleaned to remove all oil and grease which will hold onto grit particles.
Such cleaning can be done with the oven cleaner yourself or through a commercial jet-washer at a shop.
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