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Thermostat Replacement - Help Needed!

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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 01:56 PM
  #31  
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Agreed 69cj. Once I saw that slugde, along with the reddish sludge that has settled in the bottom of the degas bottle, there's no doubt that a good VC-9 douching is in order

I have 2 quarts of VC-9, 3 gallons of Ford Gold, and many gallons of distilled water on hand in the garage, as soon as I get back in town, a coolant flush is top on my 'Honey-Do' list.

There is some debate on whether VC-9 contributes to oil cooler clogging. My oil cooler was replaced this past May, and I sure don't want to pay for that again!!

Thoughts?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 03:26 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by frenchy750
Agreed 69cj. Once I saw that slugde, along with the reddish sludge that has settled in the bottom of the degas bottle, there's no doubt that a good VC-9 douching is in order

I have 2 quarts of VC-9, 3 gallons of Ford Gold, and many gallons of distilled water on hand in the garage, as soon as I get back in town, a coolant flush is top on my 'Honey-Do' list.

There is some debate on whether VC-9 contributes to oil cooler clogging. My oil cooler was replaced this past May, and I sure don't want to pay for that again!!

Thoughts?
Since you mentioned the word sludge I think I would flush with a gal. of simple green before the vc-9. That is a procedure that cheezit, a 6.0 tech, uses. It would clear the sludge and allow the vc-9 to do it job on the metal parts.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 03:54 PM
  #33  
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Consensus is VC9 dissolves scale etc. and do not create particles that clog the oil cooler much.

The alternative, of flushing with a clogged oil cooler, mean you have a big part of the cooling system that is not flushed at all.

In a perfect world, you would replace the oil / egr cooler, flush clean, and then replace the oil / egr coolers again!
 
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 06:22 PM
  #34  
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I know this was a couple months old, but thanks to the "search" feature i found this thread and used the guide to replace a suspected bad thermostat today. It went pretty smoothly however the last two nuts holding the studs decided they were going to take the studs with them, so i replaced the t-stat and had to take the bolts completely out
 
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 06:26 PM
  #35  
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they not really studs. those nut wont come off its all one pice
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 04:52 PM
  #36  
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Just finished my VC-9/Simple green flush this past weekend. Boy did it take a lot of DI water to finish flushing the system. Fortunately i work for a laboratory and have access to unlimited DI water from our treatment system. It Still took 7 Flush/drain sequences to remove all the foaming/odor of the simple green. That was draining at the petcock/lower radiator hose/RH block plug. I wish i had read this post for the info on the bolt/stud by the fuel line. What a pain it the &*^. A few of my problems that i had to figure out.

1) the Thermostat really is pretty easy to remove and should be done to speed the flushing process. It took me all afternoon to flush 7 times. Figuring 30 minutes per flush/fill it was all afternoon. I was distracted by March Madness at times so it took a little longer. Also at about 4 gallons added/removed per flush cycle i needed 35 gallons of DI Water (I had to make a second trip to the lab to get more).

By my calculation at 7 flush cycles there is approximatly 1.2 oz of simple green and 2.5 oz of VC-9 Still in the system by dilution that should have no impact on the cooling system.

2) Get ride of the squeeze hose clamp. I put everything back together with that clamp and had a nice leak. So I had to take everything apart and put on a screw type hose clamp.


My Coolant temps before were running 178-185 with a less than 15 differentianl on oil temps. So I figured I needed to replace the thermostat. Coolant has been changed prior a couple of times. Afterwards, coolant is running 188-190 with a less than 3 differential. I am happy i did this.
 
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