Thermostat Replacement - Help Needed!
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Junior User
Joined: May 2010
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Thermostat Replacement - Help Needed!
Truck is a 2003 PSD 6.0 with 156,000 miles. Temps constantly run low, so after reading 69cj's excellent writeup, I decided this one was a repair I could do myself.
Here is the writeup I followed:
Thermostat Removal Option: (Thank you 69cj)
A) Pull air cleaner assembly.
B) Drain coolant.
C) Remove upper radiator hose.
D) Remove 2 nuts on t-stat housing.
E) Lift and move press sensor bracket to the side. Not a lot of play in it but it will move.
F) Remove 2 more nuts on t-stat housing.
G) Remove housing. It will lift right off of the studs.
H) Reverse procedure to re-install. Use a new O ring (5 bucks at dealer). I used Vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
I got all the way to step D and now I am stuck. The second nut is so close to a metal line that runs to the fuel filter that I can't remove it.
I considered trying to remove that brass fixture, which might give me enough room to get in there, but I'm not sure what it is, what it does, ect. I don't want to be 'that guy' that has to take the truck to a mechanic after 'fixing' it, especially on something so seemingly simple, but right now I am at a loss as to how to proceed.
I have a new thermostat and housing ready to drop in, if I can just get the damn old one out...
Here is the writeup I followed:
Thermostat Removal Option: (Thank you 69cj)
A) Pull air cleaner assembly.
B) Drain coolant.
C) Remove upper radiator hose.
D) Remove 2 nuts on t-stat housing.
E) Lift and move press sensor bracket to the side. Not a lot of play in it but it will move.
F) Remove 2 more nuts on t-stat housing.
G) Remove housing. It will lift right off of the studs.
H) Reverse procedure to re-install. Use a new O ring (5 bucks at dealer). I used Vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
I got all the way to step D and now I am stuck. The second nut is so close to a metal line that runs to the fuel filter that I can't remove it.
I considered trying to remove that brass fixture, which might give me enough room to get in there, but I'm not sure what it is, what it does, ect. I don't want to be 'that guy' that has to take the truck to a mechanic after 'fixing' it, especially on something so seemingly simple, but right now I am at a loss as to how to proceed.
I have a new thermostat and housing ready to drop in, if I can just get the damn old one out...
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 821
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From: Nashville
That is the EBP sensor. You can remove it but be careful because it breaks easily for some reason. However, your real problem is interference from the fuel line. I had the same problem when I did mine, but I was able to remove the bolt using an open end wrench without taking the fuel line loose. If you cannot get an open end on the nut to turn it, then you'll have to remove the fuel line where it attaches to the fuel filter housing. I've also read that some folks just pry it out of the way, but I didn't want to chance that myself.
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Well, I figured out my first problem... I didn't have enough single malt scotch in me, so I wasn't smart enough to figure something out...
So, I took care of the first part which helped me figure out a way to get the bolt off. Of course I could have just waited for cheezit's suggestion, which definitely worked, but I liked my method; a glass with three fingers of The Macallan 12 year old single malt and one ice cube better. I am happy to report that I didn't break a stud, a knuckle or even a sweat.
Then I used my Scottish single malt enhanced strength to pry the press sensor up and off the studs. It was hard, it was tight, it put up a fight, but it eventually came off the studs.
And now... another problem.
Of course, the damn stud is stuck against the fuel line!
As for the EBP, I figured out while I was in there that EBP most likely stands for 'Expensive Broken Part', so I decided to steer well clear of it.
So now I am once again stuck.
Suggestions?
So, I took care of the first part which helped me figure out a way to get the bolt off. Of course I could have just waited for cheezit's suggestion, which definitely worked, but I liked my method; a glass with three fingers of The Macallan 12 year old single malt and one ice cube better. I am happy to report that I didn't break a stud, a knuckle or even a sweat.
Then I used my Scottish single malt enhanced strength to pry the press sensor up and off the studs. It was hard, it was tight, it put up a fight, but it eventually came off the studs.
And now... another problem.
Of course, the damn stud is stuck against the fuel line!
As for the EBP, I figured out while I was in there that EBP most likely stands for 'Expensive Broken Part', so I decided to steer well clear of it.
So now I am once again stuck.
Suggestions?
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 492
Likes: 2
I did mine a 05 but for some reason the line wasn't that close....but from what I have read here before I did mine... Most were able to move it out enough to get to the nut....I believe that is the ebt sensor...most loosen the nut and pry the sensor bracket out of the way.... There is plenty of give.... try a opened end wrench or a crows feet rachet...to get behind and under the fuel line if you can't move it out of the way enough.... Good luck
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Try pushing the line at the bottom where it turns. You'll get enough room to turn the nut without loosening the line.
EBP sensor--unplug the wire, remove the line from the bottom and lift it off the thermostat housing studs. Do this before removing the bracket nuts. EBP sensor assy will stay together nice and neat. Remove thermostat housing studs and voila. Reverse the procedure and all you lack is finishing up--LOL.
On Edit: From your last two pic's, all you need is a little friendly persuasion on the line with a flat bar of some kind. It ain't that tender. You might try lifting the housing up the stud a bit, screw the stud all the way out and let it tilt out a bit.
Sorry.....bad at trying to explain this.......If I could read I'd have finished college.
EBP sensor--unplug the wire, remove the line from the bottom and lift it off the thermostat housing studs. Do this before removing the bracket nuts. EBP sensor assy will stay together nice and neat. Remove thermostat housing studs and voila. Reverse the procedure and all you lack is finishing up--LOL.
On Edit: From your last two pic's, all you need is a little friendly persuasion on the line with a flat bar of some kind. It ain't that tender. You might try lifting the housing up the stud a bit, screw the stud all the way out and let it tilt out a bit.
Sorry.....bad at trying to explain this.......If I could read I'd have finished college.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 821
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From: Nashville
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Senior User
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Remember you don't have to remove the bolt just need it to let go of the intake and jus slide the thermostat with the bolt out...as one...
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Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
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From: Stuttgart, Ar
Yeah.....that's exactly what I was trying to say......Thanks.
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Junior User
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Success!!
Like my wife always tells me, 'Keep at it long enough and it'll get off." I did, and the stud did too...
Insert your own joke here.
Thanks once again to everyone that jumps in to lend a hand whenever it is needed.
Now can anyone tell me how to put this thing back together?
But seriously, is it a good or bad idea to put a little dab of copper anti-seize on the studs before putting them back in?
Insert your own joke here.
Thanks once again to everyone that jumps in to lend a hand whenever it is needed.
Now can anyone tell me how to put this thing back together?
But seriously, is it a good or bad idea to put a little dab of copper anti-seize on the studs before putting them back in?
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2009
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What were your ECT and EOT before? Both of mine hover around 180ish.
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Junior User
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Before changing the thermostat my ECT averaged 140 highway driving and 150 stop-and-go.
My EOT averaged 150 highway and 160ish in stop and go traffic.
On tonight's 30 mile highway drive, after thermostat replacement, both the EOT and ECT were right around 190, with maybe a 2-3 degree spread. In traffic, both were nearly identical to the highway temps. All of these readings are according to my Scangauge II EOT and ECT readings. It may all be in my head, but the truck felt like it drove better too, with less stuttering and hesitation... something it does from time to time. Of course, that could just be because I WANT it to feel that way.
The true test will be tomorrow when I tow my trailer 180 miles to the desert.
I have a bottle of The Macallan to finish!
My EOT averaged 150 highway and 160ish in stop and go traffic.
On tonight's 30 mile highway drive, after thermostat replacement, both the EOT and ECT were right around 190, with maybe a 2-3 degree spread. In traffic, both were nearly identical to the highway temps. All of these readings are according to my Scangauge II EOT and ECT readings. It may all be in my head, but the truck felt like it drove better too, with less stuttering and hesitation... something it does from time to time. Of course, that could just be because I WANT it to feel that way.
The true test will be tomorrow when I tow my trailer 180 miles to the desert.
I have a bottle of The Macallan to finish!
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 375
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From: W. Philly Burbs
I don't mean tho hijack the thread, so I apologize in advance but I have a question about the coolant temps.
I just programmed my Scangauge so I do not know any EOT temps as of yet, but I will update later. However, My ECT stays right around 180'F. I understand it is low, however, what about in 30 degrees and less weather? The other morning it was 21'F and the truck warmed right up to 180'F and stayed right there.
Is there any room for difference in ECT depending on the ambient temp?
I'll update later when I see if my Scangauge is programmed correctly and I see some EOT numbers.
I just programmed my Scangauge so I do not know any EOT temps as of yet, but I will update later. However, My ECT stays right around 180'F. I understand it is low, however, what about in 30 degrees and less weather? The other morning it was 21'F and the truck warmed right up to 180'F and stayed right there.
Is there any room for difference in ECT depending on the ambient temp?
I'll update later when I see if my Scangauge is programmed correctly and I see some EOT numbers.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
Likes: 669
From: Scio, OR
According to the Ford specs (for my year anyway) the acceptable range for thermostat opening is between 188-196 degree's. So it sounds like yours may be opening a bit early.
Last winter I had problems when the temps got low, and often ran down around 180. In warmer weather it would run up around 190. Last summer I replaced the thermostat and now I almost always run right at 190 to 192. When the outside temp was 10 degree's it was running between 188 and 190.
Last winter I had problems when the temps got low, and often ran down around 180. In warmer weather it would run up around 190. Last summer I replaced the thermostat and now I almost always run right at 190 to 192. When the outside temp was 10 degree's it was running between 188 and 190.