Alright thanks dchamberlain, I will have to look into that and see what my EOT is also. But being that it is cold as hell outside, I may wait till spring to replace the state and do a flush, unless someone thinks it's necessary to do now or unless I see a worsening problem.

I will still update with the EOTs and see what we got.

Thanks again

 

This is perfect because I was planning on doing this as well as a VC-9 flush soon. Thanks for the pics.

 

In my Ex, the fuel line was in the way
EXACTLY like in the OP's pictures.

Just down under the EBP bracket the fuel line(s) attach to
the block with a bolt (12 or 13MM I think).
In 1 of the OP's original pictures this bolt is visible
directly behind the bend in the EBP line under the t-stat.

I loosened that bolt a few turns and then disconnected the
fuel line from the rear of the fuel filter housing.
Besure to use 2 wrenches - 1 on the housing and 1 on the nut
to avoid too much strain on the fuel filter housing.

That allowed me to pull and slightly rotate that fuel line up out of
the way enough to get a socket onto the rear t-stat nut, pull off
the EBP bracket, and then the stud underneath the EBP bracket
to get to the t-stat.

I also found using a "wobble" extension on the socket wrench
also helped because the angle was just wrong for a straight extension
to be able to fit a "deep" socket over the stud.
These extensions allow about a 15* offset in the extenstion
from the socket - very handy for tight places.

Be sure to put a rag on the disconnected fuel fittings to
keep fuel from dropping into the open t-stat housing.

Once I worked out these issues it went very smooth.

 

05 F250 FACTORY REBUILT 6.O
My Temp has been stuck on COLD for a couple weeks now so after reading what I could on here decided to give it a go.
Was very easy compared to what I read you guys went thru.
Bought the Ford part, and gold antifreeze. Hardest part was the hose clamp on the thermostat itself. Very hard to get to and keep open so I could pull hose up. It was not a screw type but spring loaded bear trap!
No studs sticking up either.....hole thru thermostat housing with screw holes. 5/16 bolt. No problems with other fuel lines or parts being in the way. I feel lucky.
Anyhoo....thanks for all your hints and kinks!

 

UPDATE:

At idle, my ECT and EOT are within a few degrees, right around 180 degrees. On the Highway(Speeds in excess of 70 MPH), my EOT climbs to 190 and no higher, while the ECT stays about the same, maybe a few ticks higher.

So:

A: Bad thermostat causing the ECT to run cool while the EOT is "normal" at speed?
B: Or is this also a sign of a oil cooler blockage starting?
C: All of the above?

Also, I feel the need to mention that once I am off the highway, it takes less than 5 minutes for both ECT and EOT to stabilize right around 180.

 

A few degrees higher EOT vs. ECT is normal and a sign of no problems.

Oil temp is always higher because it is directly in contact with parts, and get "cooked" more.

e.g. oil spray at bottom of piston to cool it.

If ECT is HIGHER than EOT, something is odd.

The laws of thermodynamics says heat goes from hot to cold... not the other way...

My immediate question --- are you sure the instrument is correct?

I would check / validate the temp sensors, etc. to start.

Where are you measuring ECT? EOT?

Factory locations? Or your own sensors?

 

Your EOT shouldn't run more than 15 degree's higher than your ECT for an extended period. However, it appears from what I've read that you need ECT's running normally before you make that determination.

Either way, you're still within the EOT differential spec, so I don't think you need to worry. When the weather improves, get your coolant flushed properly and put in a new thermostat, then revisit the issue.

 

I am measuring the temps with a Scangauge 2 that I just bought, it is a neat piece of kit I have to say. So based upon that I believe it is reading from the factory locations through the PCM.

Maybe the gauge itself is off a little? Or maybe it's just an early opening thermostat. And yes, the difference between EOT and ECT is at the most about 10 degrees, but at idle it is withing 3-4 degrees.

 

Are you sure that ECT is HIGHER than EOT?

 

Just got back from a camping trip, towed my 8000 lb. trailer almost 400 miles round trip. Watched EOT and ECT on the Scangauge, I would say the average EOT was about 210 and average ECT was about 205.

At the top of a 2000' climb, EOT was 229 and ECT was 217, but quickly dropped after the climb was over. ECT temps dropped faster than EOT.

On average when I glanced at the Scangauge, there was a 6-10* delta between the two temps.

I'd say the thermostat replacement was a success, thanks to The Macallan and Ford Truck Enthusiasts!

Coolant filter and rear diff cover are next on the list, but first off to the store for more Macallan!

 

Set your Scangauge to read ECT = EOT = TFT, and first thing in the morning see what they all read. It will give you an idea of how close the readings are to each other. And let you know if there is something that needs to be changed setting wise.

 

The Ford specific Xgauge commands to have the Scanguage read ECT instead of fWT are:

Engine Coolant Temperature (Degrees F)
TXD: 07E0221139
RXF: 046205110639
RXD: 3008
MTH: 000200010000
NAM: ETC

I found that fWT and ECT readings were fairly consistent, but I am more familiar and comfortable with 'ECT.'

But then again, I have OCD...

 

MY EOT is running a little higher, but I am willing to be it is because of a early opening thermostat. Once it warms up a little I will replace it along with a flush.

Last night for example, it was 20 degrees ambient according to the scangauge and my EOT was around 189-190, while the ECT was 179-181. This was on the highway at 75 MPH, under 50 MPH and around town the EOT is hotter (As it should be), but only by 2-3 degrees.

 

I replaced that clamp with a worm gear clamp. Makes install much easier.

 

Frenchy, From the looks of your t-stat housing you need to run the VC-9 iron cleaner thru the system.