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I installed my MBRP down pipe, notching the firewall and all. Unfortunately I couldn't get the rest of the system in, not sure if there is a bad bend or something, but I could not get it installed.
I took it to an exhaust shop, and they are installing the rest for me.
One question, should the downpipe still be touching the firewall? I think I am still just touching. Is it going to rattle? Hopefully the shop does a good job...
When you guys installed yours was there clearance between the firewall and the DP? and the transmission and DP? I have the ZF tranny. It is so tight, and when the DP is fastened to the turbo properly, there is maybe 1/16" to the tranny and just touching the firewall.
I have installed a couple MBRP downpipes and will not do another because of fitment issues.
No, the downpipe should not continue to touch the firewall. In the past I have had to replace body mounts or shim them slightly to gain the additional clearance required.
No, your downpipe should not touch the firewall or the tranny. And yes, it is because you bought the MBRP downpipe. They seem to have fitting issues on our trucks.
Well I got it back from the exhaust shop and it rattles at the firewall....maybe just abit of the tin heat shield on the firewall touching it, not sure yet....
So they welded up the system...now what do I do? I'm thinking of looking for some high heat teflon or neoprene to wedge between the firewall and DP.
Or brace the DP against the trans, and stick a wedge in there and start prying to try and either dent the DP a little or the firewall...
Air hammer with a blunted chisel. Use it to peen back the firewall on each side of the downpipe, and as far behind the pipe as you can reach. The idea is to beat the firewall towards the rear, rather than cutting into it.
On my install, I peened the firewall when trial fitting showed interference, so the downpipe wasn't in place. I could fit a short little Kobalt (Lowe's house brand) hammer and short blunted chisel between the firewall and head. Since your downpipe is in the way (agreed, welding sucks there!), you might need to use a long chisel and keep the hammer on top of the engine.
Make sure the chisel is very blunt and broad, with rounded corners, so you don't cut into the firewall.
OK, I'll get a better look at it tomorrow. Could I just add a washer or 2 to the cab mounts? I've never done that before....even unbolting cab mounts is new to me.
someone had posted a while back about putting a port-a-power ram in between the firewall and engine block using that to push the firewall in. (i think it was jose)
I have shimmed the body mounts on a few occasions. My personal '95 got 1/2" shims all around. No problems there. Usually, it helps line up the body lines from worn mount bushings anyway.