Ok 3in Dp on 95 psd I bent the firewall and it's hard to get the dp in help me out make it easy

 

Don't think there is an easy way!

One or two piece? Mines a 2 piece MBRP that I installed from the top.
Had to take it out a few times to adjust the firewall.

 

Diamond eye 2 pcs

 

BFH is very handy. Just keep massaging the firewall it fits

 

Man never again but on good note the truck sounds like a jet now love it

 

BFH is ok, but a portapower is KEY!
I cut the seam on fire wall in two spots, and went to my local bodyshop, and borrowed his portapower for 2 hrs.
I put a piece of 2x4 between transand porta, and it gave me the leverage needed to clearance firewall.
Gave the owner $ 20 to buy coffee for the crew, money well spent.

 

...is a short, little air hammer with a short, blunt chisel. The hammer + chisel needs to be short enough to get between the head and firewall. Then you just peen a long dent in the firewall.

Evidently the assembly tolerances on the truck vary the cab and engine locations enough that a few truck have less clearance and are real PITAs to fit a downpipe. Is sounds like most folks get away with just slitting and bending the firewall/trans tunnel flange, and most of the rest get away with adding a bit of port-a-power.

Mine was the PITA variety. I tried big hammer and port-a-power, then got the air hammer. I used a little Kobalt from Lowe's, and blunted a chisel with a grinder. That made the job fairly quick and easy.

For folks starting from scratch, my suggestion is to test-fit the top of the downpipe before bending the firewall flange. If you need to make a dent, it will be easier before bending the flange. And I would go with the little air hammer before the port-a-power, as there is less chance of messing up something by using as backing for the port-a-power.

 

Glad you got it in there. Every time someone says they installed a DiamondEye system, I feel more and more like I got hosed by DiamondEye.

Here's my rant:

I ordered (or thought I ordered) the Stainless Steel turbo-back system. The part number I wanted had "SS" as the last digits. DiamondEye would not send it directly to me. They would only send it to a shop and would not sell me the cat and muffler delete pipes. The shop installed it (on a Saturday - by appointment) for me. This was on the day of my daughter's birthday party so I was glad the shop finished the install on time. I still had to pick up the cake and ice cream. The next day, I filled out the warranty card. When I checked the box for the part number, the last digit was an "A" as in Aluminized, not Stainless Steel. On the next workday (Monday) I contacted DiamondEye. They said to contact the shop. I did that and left a message. Longer story shorter...several attempts to contact DiamondEye and the installing shop led nowhere.

At this point, I must say there is nothing wrong with the system the shop installed other than it isn't what I wanted. The "SS" system had a Lifetime warranty and the "A" system was a one year warranty. That is now expired.

When (not if) I replace the DiamondEye system, I'm getting an MBRP setup. I'll keep my current cat and the DiamondEye muffler, but I want the cat and muffler delete for when I'm running at the local dragstrip.

End of rant...Thanks for listening.

XBAJBUSX, did you do the straight pipe setup or did you keep the cat and muffler? And I agree with you, the turbo whistle does sound like a jet. I do enjoy the turbo song, especially on those long uphills when pulling a trailer.

 

That's why you buy from a vendor. They'll usually ship to anybody.

I have had nothing but fights with MBRP downpipes. When the downpipe will not even clear the passenger side up-pipe, you know there are fitment issues.

Diamond Eye 2-piece is the bomb.

Oh, and worn cab mounts (squished flat) will cause a ton of problems. It's gotten to the point where I just install 1/2" shims on top of the cab mounts when I do a downpipe. Usually, this helps to line up the body lines on the cab and box anyway.

 

The previous owner of my 95 said he loosened the cab mounts and jacked up the pass side and the pipe slid right in, dont know if he massaged the firewall or not.

 

That's the way I do it as well, but the firewall seam STILL needs to be clearanced. No two ways around it unless you install a 3" body lift.