pawpaw, is this the tool you are talking about:


Regarding my symptoms, here's what I have:

-Speedometer/odometer works when cold, then after a few minutes/miles it will start to dip like it's dying, bob up and down a bit, then finally hit 0. While driving it will occasionally start working again then die. It never exceeds the given speed. So if I'm doing 40 it isn't bouncing all over the place to say 60 or 70 or whatever.

-No CEL

-No ABS light. I did have an intermittent one some time ago but it has not appeared in some time.

-No issues shifting as I have a manual transmission

-Cruise Control doesn't seem to drop out. I can set it while 0 is indicated on the cluster and it does it's thing. I will try a long drive to see if I can get it to drop.

-No grinding or weird noises that I can hear

Last weekend I replaced the VSS with a genuine Motorcraft one to rule out that possibility.

 

Yes, this is the wireless Bluetooth model for use with your Android device.

So, seeing as how the speed-o is intermittent & you've tossed a new rear differential mounted ABS speed sensor at the problem with no joy, I'd scan for trouble code clues.

In the absence of any code clues, leave the speed sensor electrical connector, corrosion of its pins, sockets, wire run to the computer & the computer firewall electrical connector pins/sockets on the suspect list, before suspecting & jumping into replacing the speed-o gear set.

 

Just wanted to close the loop on this. After dealing with this off and on for several years and trying the various suggestions offered here, I wound up just replacing the instrument cluster with a similar mileage one, and voila! Working great now for several months.

I still don't know the actual cause was, however. What I do know is that when I pulled the original cluster out it was still quite warm even though at the time it had been sitting for 10-15 minutes. My best guess is that something internally was causing a short or something to jam mechanically. Wish I had a better answer!

Thanks to the forum (especially pawpaw) for all the help!

 

Good find, fix, feedback, closing out your thread & to hear all now seems well with the replacement instrument panel. Would be interesting to know if the ELM scan tool & running FORScan on your viewing device choice ever turned up any trouble code clues???

 

If you still have your old cluster you and want to try fixing it for a spare, You can buy new speedometer drive motors and gears.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Speedometer...8AAOSwU8RcpYox
https://www.ebay.com/itm/94-98-Ford-...cAAOSwrU1bEx0e

 

I tried that route but unfortunately one of the tabs that hold the motor in snapped when I was removing it. I managed to secure the motor down (and replace the gear) but it made no effect.

 

That's the one thing I didn't end up doing. Hopefully, someone in the future who has this issue does this and reports back.

 

Hi, everyone! My first post. I'm having the same problem intermittently with my 1996 2d Ranger XLT 2.3L automatic, especially on long drives. I'm not mechanically proficient in any sense of the word, except for adding fluids and changing tires. Is this really something that I need to get my mechanic to fix, a sign of a bigger issue?

 

Welcome to FTE.

Seeing as how this is a 96 & is OBD-2 diagnostics, use, borrow, or come by the ELM scan tool & running FORScan diagnostic freeware that's tweaked for Fords as discussed here on the viewing deice of your choice, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html as it can scan All of the vehicle computer controllers for trouble code clues. Then post All code Numbers as they can help focus a trouble shoot. Then you can decide if you want to turn your own wrenches on the repir, or farm it out to a pro. Most of these kinds of repairs we can do ourselves, if we're willing to spend some time with our vehicle to learn something new & in the process save a wad of our gold.

Some thoughts for consideration, let us know what you decide to do & how it goes.