Dump it NOW! Then get a Chevy with the duramax.

 

and thats coming from a guy that drives a ford with a 6.0 in it?? haha

 

Hmmmm, well let's do the math. New King Ranch F350 4x4 - $84,000 (actual sticker on the door up here), that's what $1500 a month in payments roughly over five years? Bill to fix or replace 6.0L engine around $7500.

New 2011 F350 84,000
Replace/fix engine 7500

Knowing your truck is paid off and you don't have another 55 payments to go - priceless.

 

As mentioned many times, people post to the forum when they have problems--those that don't have problems don't (as much anyway). I wonder what the real-world statistics on the 6.0 liter engine failure really are? It would sure be enlightening to have these data in making an informed decision.

 

Mohle,
In my situation, the truck KBB trade-in value is $25,000. I've found an F250 SD (2011 with 6.2 gasser and 4x4) at my local dealer for $30,850 (non-negotiated, flat internet price). I'm sure I could get out the door for right at 5K because I only pay sales tax on the difference (trade vs new). So, in my situation, it may make sense, and only result in payments for an additional year (about twice the amount of the warranty extension). I couldn'd afford an $84,000 truck! That's where I am anyway.

 

If you don't need a diesel that would be the way to go.

 

69cj,
just saw the 173rd Abn in your signature line. Vicenza huh? I was at Bragg during the 80s with the 321st Abn FA. All the way! Thanks for all the advice brother.

 

I don't know where the $84,000 figure came from unless you mean when you buy a 2011 F350 single axle King Ranch 4x4 6.7 diesel there's $30,000 in cash rebate sitting in the console. $54, is what a guy up the road from me paid for his a few months ago.

 

Sticker at the local dealer was 61 and some change.

 

Thanks for all the responses, still don't know what to do, also forgot to mention my 7 year old son would be devistated if I do sell it, he is so into diesel superduties, and has 20+ of them in his toy box. The truck is paid for, I have taken good care of it changing the oil every 5-7thousand kilometers using synthetic, also changing the fuel filters every 20000 kilometers, and keeping a clean airfilter in as well. I live in rural manitoba so everytime I drive the truck I put on at least 150 highway miles on it. What else should I have done as far as good maintenence for the motor? I still have warranty and I am considering buying more as a option.

 

Pay $2,000 or thereabouts for the top of the line Ford warranty to 200,000 miles, and sleep well.

IMHO, the basic motor is good for 500,000 to 1,000,000 miles --- it will outlast the chassis and body.

In your kind of use --- lots of miles on a trip (meaning it gets warmed and thoroughly cleaned out of carbon) is a good thing.

I would take your vehicle -- with its trouble free / well maintained status off your hands in a heartbeat....

Except there is no way you should take my price!


The only thing I would add for you ---

Coolant filter --- known to reduce problems.

When you do change coolant, stick exactly to the Ford procedure and use VC-9.

You are maintaining it better than I do -- synth oil at 7,000km?


Given what you would lose in a trade... and this thing is essentially paid for... you got to either like debt, be loaded, or want to be so trendy worried to want the 2011 (with its yet to be determined issues)...

Keep it.

If it was me, I would self insure knowing your vehicle history. But you want to sleep well... so buy the Ford top of the line extended warranty that covers nearly everything.

 

Where do I get the coolant filter?

 

I will let others chime in here --- as there are different views.

It is an absolute must --- for you to install, then monitor it for a few filter changes (until it is "clean") then regularly change it.

FYI, I don't have a coolant filter on my agenda, but my truck, having done 275,000 miles without it... can wait a little longer.

Previous owner did multiple coolant changes... so I am mostly covered.

I also have a big problem fitting it in a E van with very little underhood space.

You don't have that problem... so there is no reason not to fit one.


Given your vehicle is now pushing 5 years, I would do the coolant change at the same time and flush with VC-9, (note 4 to 6 billable hour job, plus parts yield a price of $300 or so to do it right at the dealer).

Or learn to do it yourself --- use distilled water.


A flash (software update) get you free ECT/EOT monitoring (lights the wrench light if it goes awry).


-------------

As you are aware, dealers will sharply discount the cost of extended warranties...

If they wouldn't I am not sure you can get a US Ford extended warranty, but no harm in asking our friend partsguyed.com and even if you can't buy from him, use his price to beat down the local dealer.

 

Get an ODBII gauge. If you monitored your ECT vs EOT you might
have saved yourself the $$$ by taking it in BEFORE it blew
(and the warranty expired) if you observed a large delta
between the 2 temps.

Even now, it's a wise investment. Plus it can MOVE to your next ride!
should you change vehicles.

 

Here is a good discussion of the major aftermarkets:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nt-filter.html



https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...er-change.html

Dieselsite's filter got dinged a bit recently:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...with-pics.html


There are people who did DIY coolant filters:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...m-bracket.html

NAPA and others sell their own coolant filter kit.


So it is really up to you how much you want to spend / how you want to do it.


The key, as always, is to find a filter kit with a readily available filter cartridge that is cheap and easy to install, and does the job.



PS I notice you are into synthetic oil changes.


See my post about PetroCanada's Duron-E oil --- it is the best thing invented since sliced bread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...announced.html