Clueless on carb adjustment . . . .
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Senior User
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Clueless on carb adjustment . . . .
Okay, hey guys, got a question about carb adjustments. I have a '79 F100 Ranger with the 302. Issue is that it smokes heavily from the tailpipe even after it's warmed up. What is the procedure for adjusting the carb to see if that is what the issue is? How many turns left? How many turns right? Air / Fuel ???? I'm clueless here, but I really need to do this to see if this is what is causing the smoke cloud. Any help would be truly appreciated.....and much needed !!!!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,574
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From: Cranbrook, Ont., Canada
Okay, hey guys, got a question about carb adjustments. I have a '79 F100 Ranger with the 302. Issue is that it smokes heavily from the tailpipe even after it's warmed up. What is the procedure for adjusting the carb to see if that is what the issue is? How many turns left? How many turns right? Air / Fuel ???? I'm clueless here, but I really need to do this to see if this is what is causing the smoke cloud. Any help would be truly appreciated.....and much needed !!!!
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No idea how to check the choke adjustment either, can you help me out with that? The smoke looks to be blue mainly. I know that I need to put in a new rear main seal, but just don't have the time or cash to do that at this time. Would that be contributing to the smoke?
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Well, hate to sound so ignorant on this.......quite embarrasing actually, but how do I do a compression check, wet and dry?? I know general maintenance and a little bit beyond that, but I'm afraid that I'm a little limited in my knowledge and know how beyond that, Any help and guidance would be appreciated...after all, that is why I joined this forum over five years ago, you guys have been GREAT !!!! So, how and what do I need to do from here?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Ideeho
1st You'll need a compression tester. You can buy or rent one.
2nd Remove all spark plugs.
3rd Install compression tester in #1 cylinder.
4th crank engine until highest reading is acheived. Record the reading.
5th repeat 1 thru 4 for each cylinder 2-8.
These results are your dry readings. to acheive wet readings add about 2 or 3 tablespoons of clean engine oil to each cylinder and repeat steps 2 thru 5 above this will give you your wet readings.
Compare your wet and dry results cylinder by cylinder. If your wet and dry readings are close to each other you can assume that your rings are good. If your wet reading is considerably higher than your dry reading you can assume the rings are bad. The oil you added to each cylinder will help seal the rings as you crank. Hope this helps and if I forgot something.......the rest of you can feel free to add to it.
2nd Remove all spark plugs.
3rd Install compression tester in #1 cylinder.
4th crank engine until highest reading is acheived. Record the reading.
5th repeat 1 thru 4 for each cylinder 2-8.
These results are your dry readings. to acheive wet readings add about 2 or 3 tablespoons of clean engine oil to each cylinder and repeat steps 2 thru 5 above this will give you your wet readings.
Compare your wet and dry results cylinder by cylinder. If your wet and dry readings are close to each other you can assume that your rings are good. If your wet reading is considerably higher than your dry reading you can assume the rings are bad. The oil you added to each cylinder will help seal the rings as you crank. Hope this helps and if I forgot something.......the rest of you can feel free to add to it.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,574
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From: Cranbrook, Ont., Canada
Great post 78PEB. I'm not a mechanic, but if the rings prove to be OK then wouldn't you look at the top end ie: valve guides, valve seals. These items could also be contributing factors to the oil burnig
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Canada
If you are seeing a blue haze, you will likely see deposits on the sparkplugs. I'm not sure you will need the compression test. Another spot to look is the valve seals, pull the valve covers, check the seals. They are inside the valve springs, they often break up, end up in the oil pan stuck to the oil pump pickup. That will cause a lot of oil burning, often seen at startup. After they plug up the oil pump, the end comes relatively fast........ Don
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,574
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From: Cranbrook, Ont., Canada
DCford, Hey man, don't get discouraged. Just take it one step at a time and it'll all work out
I can't remember the last time I worked on my old 77 and things went just hunky-dory Most times with these old girls you just HAFFTA take your time. Patience is a virtue. There's lots of help around here. These guys are virtual wizards when it comes to these trucks. If one can't help you someone else will chime in.
So relax and we'll try to help you thru this, ONE STEP AT A TIME.
I can't remember the last time I worked on my old 77 and things went just hunky-dory Most times with these old girls you just HAFFTA take your time. Patience is a virtue. There's lots of help around here. These guys are virtual wizards when it comes to these trucks. If one can't help you someone else will chime in. So relax and we'll try to help you thru this, ONE STEP AT A TIME.
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Thanks, Popajon, no doubt I'm going to need it alot. Thanks to the rest of you guys as well, I look forward to "picking your brains" as much as possible. If it weren't for you guys and this forum......I would literally be lost.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: South west Idaho
You will get it fixed with all the help on this ford forum. Be thankful it's here with the help. When a lot of us started working on trucks , we never hardly new what a computer was let alone a forum. Oops i just told how old i am. L.O.L. 
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,674
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From: Ideeho
Don't pick mine too much.............I don't have much left!!!! Seriously if there is anything more I can do to help, just ask and I know that goes for the rest of them on here.