When I was in my 20s I was working for a farmer, we were doing minor repairs on farm equip during the off season and he wanted me to rebuild a GM 350 in a C-60 farm truck. I had never tore down and rebuilt an engine before but he insisted I could do it. I got a manual, and they had all the tools and proceded to tear into it. When it was finished it ran like a top, total stock rebuild, nothing special. I talked to his son the other day, still a good friend and I asked him if they still had the old truck. He told me that he had sold it recently and that the motor was still going strong, some 20 years later. Boy, I wish I had the use of their shop to work on mine and if I wasnt 900 miles away they would tell me to bring it in......

 

Didn't even think of that. Due to the blow-by and rear main issues, there is quite a bit of "oil slick" in the engine compartment, especially on that side. Would make sense that the oil could be coating some of the belts making 'em slip. I'll do some degreasing and check the tension on that belt and see if that does the trick.

 

Yeah, I've been looking on Craigslist for a 302, but I'm not sure exactly what "type" of 302 I would need to get. I see long block, short block, flat tappet....the list goes on. Would any of these work? Would any of these just hook right up to my current tranny without any problems? I plan to rebuild mine, but was thinking I'd get another that is not leaking, etc. to put in my truck while I tear down and "school" myself on rebuilding a motor.

 

Hmmm, you could get a running one from a junkyard/craigslist to keep truck running while you work on yours..... but seems like aweful lot of work, I would only want to do the whole engine pull/install once. a shortblock is just the block and bottom end rebuilt, you supply the heads, intake, oilpan and tin etc, a longblock is a complete motor minus I believe the accesories, alt, starter etc .

 

Now it makes sense, thanks for the info. How long should it / could it take to do a rebuild on the motor? Is that something that could be done in three to four days for instance?

 

Been looking on Craigslist and see a number of 302's on there, but I still need to know...do I need to look for a specific type of 302 or will any of them bolt right up to my current tranny? Do I need to get one that is specific to my model year ('79) or one from that time frame? I just don't know what it is I should be looking for specifically, guys, and I need some help. Financially, with all involved, I need to keep my truck going so I have decided to get another motor to drop in while I learn the rebuild process on my current motor. It is going to be a long-term process for me to do the rebuild, so I need to get another motor to drop in for the meantime. Guys, give me some guidance on what it is I need to get / look for as far as another motor to drop in, otherwise, I could end up with something that doesn't work right, fit right, bolt up right, etc.

 

it could be done in three to four days minus machine work. they usually like to take a week or so.

 

Any 302 will bolt up to your tranny. Because they all have the same bell housing. Also certain long blocks are complete minus the intake carb and distributor. Which you could just put on from your old engine. Look for one that is 93 or older. Now something most people don't think about. If you decide to go with say a mustang 302 thats fine and will work. Just make sure to use the exhaust manifolds from the 302 in your truck. You might need to use your trucks oil too. But other than that any 302 will drop right in. As for building the motor. Like 83sd machine work takes about a week. but once you get it all back and you have everything to put the engine together you can do it in a day. For example. My family used to drag race. I ran dragsters and my dad raced a chevelle. From just the block we built a 350 race engine in 6 hours. Just make sure you take your time double check everything.

 

Thanks for the info, guys, I appreciate it. Just threw that out there about the motor since I wasn't sure if a motor from a newer model year than mine would be an issue due to the adding of "computer" gadgetry that started getting added to motors in the 80's. Since mine has no computer stuff, I didn't know if I would run into issues adding a motor that came from a vehicle with a computer brain added into the mix.

 

On my last post where I put you might have to use your trucks oil to I ment oil pan. But with the computer stuff thats why I said 93 or older. Because yes they were using computers then but you can put a carb on them and they will run fine.

 

Okay, here goes........last night I drove my truck over to a friend's house to drop off some stuff. Since I didn't figure I'd be long, kept my ruck running in front of their house with my parking lights on. Needless to say, I ended up staying for longer than I planned and when I looked out at my truck I noticed the parking lights were very dim. Went out and, sure enough, it had apparently cut off and I couldn't get it started again without a jump. When we jumped it, it fired up, but when I turned on my lights they were barely visible....I mean real dim. Truck then died again because it would not stay running unless I kept giving it gas. Ended up towing it home and jumped it again there and it fired up and stayed running on it's own. Took it for a drive through the neighborhood and as I was driving after awhile, the lights started dimming out again bad. Not even enough light to light up the road, then it cut off again. So........what is the issue?? Alternator, battery or something else much worse that I can't think of? Oh, and as I was driving it through the neighborhood after the second jump, every time I accelerated there was a whining noise that was noticeable everytime I gave it gas. Any ideas?

.......Above is from the post I put up previously....... Here's my situation now !!!! Went out and tightened up the alternator belt, even though it really wasn't that loose. Then went to start my truck and...nothing, acted like it wanted to start to turn, but no go. Figured the battery must not have enough juice from the last incident mentioned above, so I jumped it with my other truck and still nothing, again acted like it wanted to start to turn but still no go. Left it hooked up with cables for a little bit in case the battery was "really" dead, but still nothing. Put a test light to the coil on the fender wall behind the battery and there is juice, so would that mean that it's good? No idead what I need to look at or for from here guys, so I need some input and guidance. Starter maybe? Tried whacking it with a hammer a few times, but still no start. Hope I haven't completely fried something.

 

Any input or guidance regarding my last post earlier this morning would really be a big help guys. I just need to know what else I need to check here.

 

No replies or assistance at all ???????? That truly is amazing, is everyone just sick of reading my thread or something ??????

 

Your gettin way off your original topic headline... If it starts, check the voltage at the battery terminals, If it's over 13 volts when you rev it, then the alternator is working.. Check the connection to the voltage regulator and it and make sure it's tight, cheap to replace if need be. For a start.. Give the battery a good charge and have it load tested at a random auto parts store to make sure that's not the problem..

 

The questions are very general in nature, these guys need more specific info, I wouldnt be much help to you anyways. Your problem doesnt really sound very serious but of course I could be wrong. I'll give you a suggestion; check Craigslist in the automotive section, there are always mechanics in there who will come to you and work reasonably, this way you avoid a shop with their high rates and overhead to pay for, you may need professional help diagnosing and fixing your problem. Good luck