I would have to say - Do it all at once and be done with it... Again, I can sell you a very good running 1993 Pontiac Sunbird for $800...

 

Ha, nah, I will stick with my "dent". Although, I hope you're not saying that my truck is a lost cause and not worth the effort.........Otherwise, my truck is in great shape overall, I just need to get the motor straight.

 

Never said it was a lost cause, just that it can get pricey pretty quick... and, I need to sell a car... lol..... 30 mpg's....

 

You could easily spend $1000.00 on machine work. At least the same amount on parts. All depends if you want to do it right or just do it. Before doing just the rear seal, however I would check over the whole engine. If it is burning oil, leaking oil, and has a large amount of blowby; a rebuilt longblock with warrenty is probably the most efficient way to go. Don't forget you still need to address why you felt the need to adjust the carb in the first place.
You just need to decide if you want to do it once or over and over.

 

Thanks, I appreciate the realistic insight. Are there links or sites that I can go to see how much a block and everything would cost? I had even considered getting a whole new motor, I just don't know enough about actually rebuilding a motor to know where to even begin with all this. Would a top end rebuild be an option? I really admire all of you guys out there that do all of your own rebuilding, replacing, etc. I'm not ignorant per se to general maintenance and a little beyond as far as engines, I've just never had to break down and rebuild an engine. That being said, I do not want to get rid of my dent, so I guess you're never too old to learn how to do all this and I'll just roll up the sleeves and get into and learn as I go along.....it's bound to get finished someday. I never adjusted the carb, but I posted to get some feedback to see if that may be what was causing the smoke. After all the feedback I've received, I don't think the carb is the issue. Based on what I'm hearing here, I am fairly certain that rings are definitely an issue because of all the blowby. As all of you guys have said, if I need to do the rings, I may as well go ahead and do everything while I've got it broken down and do it all right then. The only place oil is leaking is from the rear main, but all the blowby is creating quite a mess under hood everytime I drive it.......hence, back to the rings again.

 

Engine rebuild kits aren't too bad depending on the quality. Stock kits, I've seen around $300-400. The labor and machining it what adds up. You just never now what kinds of things come up during a rebuild. I'd just get some quotes from shops to see what they would do. Otherwise, you can get yourself a "how to rebuild a V8" manual and go to town. You'll still want to have the block and crank looked at to see if any machining needs to be done. Also, you'll want to have the heads looked at too. In many cases, the heads may need a valve job. I had my brother (who is a mech.) help me on mine so I didn't do much myself. I've always wanted to learn how to rebuild one myself though. Otherwise, I'd also check into some crate motors too.

 

these old v8s are cake to work on. dont get discouraged. remember to mark the plug wires as you remove them(or do one at a time), take your time and pay attention as you remove things. i just finished a head gasket job on a honda civic today, made me appreciate my old v8s that much more.

 

A reference for you, I was quoted $1649 to rebuild a 360 by a reputable local shop in town, thats bringing them the engine with all the tin (valve covers, oil pan, timing cover etc) on it and they give it back rebuilt with all the tin on it

 

Here is the basics to rebuilding your 302's bottom end.
1st. Take out all the bolts to the oil pan. Put them in a baggy so you don't lose them. I always label my bags with the number of bolts in there. Where they go. And what size tool they use. Yes it may seem like over kill but when you go to put the engine back together you'll be so glad you did it.
2. now unbolt the fuel pump if its still on there. it will be on the left side of the block.
3. unbolt the timing cover. Its the metal cover on the front of the engine at the bottom.
4. turn the engine right side up on the stand and take off the carb, intake manifold and distributor.
5. take off the valve covers.
6. take of the rocker arms. IF you use the same rocker arms again then make sure you put the rocker arm back in the same spot. But if I was you I would just get a brand new set. They are about 20 bucks for stock ones.
7. pull out the push rods. Same as with the rocker arms if you re use them they need to go in the same spot. So I like to get a piece of card board and I label on side front drivers and front passanger. then put the pushrods in order on that.
8. pull out the lifters. same routine if you use them again the need to go back in the same hole.
9. take the timing chain off.
10. pull the cam. When you pull the cam inspect it for wear. you will be better off to get a new cam. You'll get performance gains and better mileage depending on how big you go.
11. Un bolt the heads. make sure when you put them on you put the right head in on the right side.
12. Now turn the engine back over. Unbolt the main caps. inspect the bearings. If there is alot of wear your going to need to get your crank grinded down. Which if you have to do that you'll need to get special bearing for them. Also your rods are gonna need resized.
13. unbolt the rod caps.
14. pull the crank out.
15. pull the rod and piston out.

You can get a away with getting the bottom end reconditioned and 9 times out of 10 thats good enough. Just make sure if you go that route that you get new rings new bearings and if your block has to get bored over then you have to get new pistons. I know looking and working on these engines its a bit over wheleming and you think to your self how in the world and I gonna do this? but you'll get the hang of it and you'll be like this is easy. But since your on a budget I would look on your local craigslist for a running 302 and swap the engines out. Then get a engine stand and build your pulled engine to how you want it.

 

Wow, thanks guys, this really does help me out alot. I've considered the craigslist route, so I may just do that and then take my time redoing my current motor (and learning in the process). Obviously, I'm still going to be needing some major guidance and input along the way, so don't stray too far.

 

Forgot to add that I've browsed sites as far as crate motors and they are WAY outta my budget. I did, however, see a 302 for sale for $500, but that does not include any electrical, tin, etc.

 

500 is pretty ex*****ive for a stock motor on craigslist. Believe me if you get a chance to rebuild your motor you will love it and learn so much. What a little trick alot of guys use? Look for a 302 or some people list 302 as 5.0 which is how many liters it is. Look for one out of like a 93 cobra mustang. Yes it is fuel injection but you can put a carb intake manifold on there. You will have performance gains efficany gains and its a roller cam instead of a flat tappet cam. Which means longer life out of your engine.

 

hey dcford, I just looked in my area of va on craigslist, and they have a 302 and trans for 500 in the winchester area. you could prob. get just the motor for reasonable.

 

Okay, here goes........last night I drove my truck over to a friend's house to drop off some stuff. Since I didn't figure I'd be long, kept my ruck running in front of their house with my parking lights on. Needless to say, I ended up staying for longer than I planned and when I looked out at my truck I noticed the parking lights were very dim. Went out and, sure enough, it had apparently cut off and I couldn't get it started again without a jump. When we jumped it, it fired up, but when I turned on my lights they were barely visible....I mean real dim. Truck then died again because it would not stay running unless I kept giving it gas. Ended up towing it home and jumped it again there and it fired up and stayed running on it's own. Took it for a drive through the neighborhood and as I was driving after awhile, the lights started dimming out again bad. Not even enough light to light up the road, then it cut off again. So........what is the issue?? Alternator, battery or something else much worse that I can't think of? Oh, and as I was driving it through the neighborhood after the second jump, every time I accelerated there was a whining noise that was noticeable everytime I gave it gas. Any ideas?

 

Loose/slipping alternator belt comes to mind..........