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92 7.3L GP schematic

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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 03:29 AM
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Question 92 7.3L GP schematic

Hey guys, I'm brand new to the site, the IDI, how some things on it work, and tried to fight my way through that extensively long GP thread at the top of the page before any of you bust my ***** on that one. I had to stop because I found it discussed too many things for a newbee to tackle

So, I'm fairly certain the glowplugs are shot in the truck because I had a clicking with the key on, but she started harder than any diesel I've been in. I'm not use to the sound in a normal Powerstroke, but I just assumed this was normal because it's an older truck. However, my boss took the truck, where it sat in his driveway for about a week. Now that I have it back, it no longer even makes the click. It's now in the teens during the day and night, sooo I'd like to stop using ether asap.

My question to you is whether any of you can point me to a shematic of the glowplug system in the truck. I generally understand how it all works, but I'm a visual learner before I can follow descriptions. Even if they're your own pictures, any visual aid and explanation about the system would be awesome.

Thank You All Very Much,
Bob
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 11:56 AM
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When you turn the key on, you should here one click with about a 10 second pause depending on temps in your area followed by multiple clicks. Your wait to start light should stay on btwn the first click and the start of the series of clickings. If it doesnt, chances are you have some dead glow plugs. To check them, pull the connector off the top, then attach the clip of a test light to the positive battery terminal, and touch the end of the probe to the top of the glow plug. If the tester lights up, the plug is good. If not then the plug is bad. Replace only with motorcraft/beru ZD9 glow plugs.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by johnboggs21
When you turn the key on, you should here one click with about a 10 second pause depending on temps in your area followed by multiple clicks. Your wait to start light should stay on btwn the first click and the start of the series of clickings. If it doesnt, chances are you have some dead glow plugs. To check them, pull the connector off the top, then attach the clip of a test light to the positive battery terminal, and touch the end of the probe to the top of the glow plug. If the tester lights up, the plug is good. If not then the plug is bad. Replace only with motorcraft/beru ZD9 glow plugs.
I'll definately have to do that to test them, but I don't even hear a single click anymore, let alone multiple ones. I more over less would like a schematic/diagram so I can trace all the wires and check the whole system for faults. She's an old beat work truck, and now that I've got her, she's going to get some serious TLC

Bob
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 12:18 PM
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I dont have any diagrams offhand, but I know that ive seen some floating around here. Im sure someone will be along that can post them for you.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 12:49 PM
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I appreciate the help. I just went outside and got the starting issue solved. It was a circuit breaker that needed to be reset... Go figure I checked everything else, except something so simple.

As for the glow plugs, I'm going to go out and test them now. I figure I'll just keep all the first issues/questions I have into one thread as much as I can. I don't like being the guy on forums with 18 different threads for every little question haha

Bob
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 03:38 PM
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Bob,

Welcome to the forum. I suspect you might have a 2 or more burned glow plugs.

Try reading through this and see if it helps:

Ford diesel 6.9 7.3 IDI
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 11:08 PM
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I have a schematic but I don't know to post them in a thread without adding them to my pictures and then linking them.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 11:13 PM
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Thanks! That's exactly the kind of thing I was looking for. So if I'm thinking correctly, if multiple gp's are out, the system doesn't work?

Bob
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 11:24 PM
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I can't say on that part. Don't know if it senses electrical draw from the plugs to the point it is smart enough to not try to heat them up. It does sense glow plug voltage but I don't know the triggers it goes by to make adjustments.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 11:19 AM
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Alright, so while under the hood yesterday, I snapped a few shots of the passenger fender. This is where that circuit breaker kinda thing is, and the starter solenoid. What I'm not sure of, is whether my controller is part of the starter solenoid or if it's somewhere else on the engine.



This is the view of the whole right fender...






This is that circuit breaker thing I had to reset for the starting issue...






This is the solenoid on the right fender I am speaking of....


 
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 01:16 PM
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i think thats just like a power shut off we have one that looks just like that on our boat
 
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 02:04 PM
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After a little bit of research, I found what the relay looks like and it's location. You take off the air filter, and it's located in the back of the block. The glowplugs finally crapped the bed, so that's the issue, and who knows when they were last replaced. I at least hope it's the plugs, because the relay costs anywhere from $120-$200 from what I saw.

Whereabouts would be the best place for plugs? Just go to the dealer, or does anybody know of another place to buy them?


Thanks,
Bob
 
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 03:54 PM
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Get Beru/Motorcraft Glow plugs only (made in germany). Do not use drop in replacements sold under autolite or champion brands. Look for the ZD9 part number (ZD9 for 87-94 trucks and ZD1-A for 83-86 trucks)

The going rate for them right now is about $10 each but some are able to find them for less. Dealers usually charge the highest rates and some have been known to price them at nearly $30 each!

RockAuto.com carries them and their shipping time/cost are usually quite good. These days even us canadians can cash in because they charge sales taxes on their end which means no delays at the border and no brokerage fees.
 
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