I've been searching the forum and haven't been able to determine if I'll need to pull the turbo on my 93 7.3 IDI to remove the two glowplugs closest to the firewall. My question - is it advisable to pull the turbo or is it reasonable to do the job without pulling it?

Also, I read that the best tool for removing the plugs is a 1/4 socket and 3/8 combination wrench.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...dure-help.html
I having a hard time visualizing what was meant by this. Are we talking 1/4 drive with short extension and using a combination wrench to turn it or something else?

I'm pretty aprehensive about this job since the PO did not believe in maintenance and admitted that he couldn't get the two plugs closest to the firewall out. I'm hoping he meant he couldn't reach that and not that he couldn't pull them because of swollen tips.

I'm going lube em up with multiple applications of PB. If I can get em out I'm using motorcrafts - replacing the controller and wiring and wiring harness.

This is one of those jobs I shouldn't have put off, but I had to pick my battles last summer since there were so many things to fix and so few dollars for parts. Now I get to work in the snow (central Maine so we got it for another 3 months or so )- and this truck ain't starting till i get this fixed. Help is appreciated!

 

You can get that plug that is under the turbo with the turbo still on. You need to use a combination of extensions and a swivel joint. He is talking about using a 1/4 drive socket set, with a 3/8 sized socket, along with a 3/8 inch combination wrench. Use the wrench to have a little more leverage to break the gp loose, then use the socket to finish removing it. A longth of fuel hose that slips tightly over the gp will help to turn out the gp if it turns freely. Just slip the hose over the gp and twist away.

 

You need a deep-well socket that remains a hexagonal shape all the way up to where the square drive is inserted. If it switches to a round shape, the spades on the glowplugs won't fit in the socket. I had to stop everything I was doing and go to NAPA to buy the proper socket.

I've read some guys use that socket w/ a cordless screw gun and a fork of some sort as leverage when they're stuck in there. In other words, they shove the fork under the glowplug and use the screwgun to unscrew it while applying some leverage under the plug to help it grind itself off.

 

If he has a 93, he has bullet style GP's, not spades.

I recently did the GP's on mine, took about an hour, be sure to use anti-sieze on the threads. And if you had a fuel leak recently, make sure the is no fuel sitting in the little dip-down where the GP is, that could cause some fireworks

 

That makes sense. Is there an advantage to 1/4" drive for this job? I ask because I already have 3/8" and 1/2" drive sets with various sized extensions, ujoints etc. and I'm trying to curb my addicition for buying new tools. Can it be done with 3/8" drive? hmmm, maybe I should rephrase that - what size drive have you guys used?

Thanks for the heads up about checking for fuel. Besides fuel, there's a variety of residue and lil bits o crap. I plan on spending some time with compressed air to get it sorta clean before I start. I like fireworks just as much as the next guy, but not under the hood of my truck.

 

The 1/4 inch is not as bulky as the 3/8, giving a little more wiggle room. I have done the gps using the 3/8 drive.

 

I did mine in about 25 minutes. Had no need for a combination wrench....
Used:

• Snap on 1/4 drive flex head ratchet
• 3/8 deep 1/4drive socket
• 3 inch extension
• 6 inch extension
• and a u-joint swivel.... cant remember if it was actually needed

The 1/4 drive stuff is the only way to go. it works well for example: some plugs I remember putting the socket on, the carefully sliding the 1/4 extension in between injector lines... a place where a 3/8 extension would never fit...

Also like said above, use a little anti-siez on the threads... makes life easy down the road

And most importantly... USE MOTORCRAFT ZD-9's ONLY!

 

I'm starting to think about alternatives if I can't get at these plugs - I might start a thead about running 6 good plugs on a pushbutton....

so here's the update, it's finally been warm enough to allow me to poke around a bit. What I found is not good. My 93 7.3 with turbo was never designed to have it's plugs changed. Take a look.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/album.php?albumid=15635&pictureid=62773


Ok, so I'm exagaratting. 6 out of 8 of the plugs are a piece of cake, the #7 cylinder could be done with some knuckle bruising but the #5 is a design oversight. As you can see both the #5 and #7 glowplugs are buried in this truck. IF they were recent or motorcraft or antiseieze or not fully corroded from misuse and salt poisoning I would TRY to get at these without touching the turbo; as it is (all the bads things listed above) I think my only chance to get these guys is gonna be if I can at least see em clearly and get a socket on them with nothin in the way - take a look at the dilemma

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/album.php?albumid=15635&pictureid=62769

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/album.php?albumid=15635&pictureid=62770

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/album.php?albumid=15635&pictureid=62771


To clear some space and improve my odds I was thinking of removing the turbo inlet - I think there's just one bolt holding it down

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/album.php?albumid=15635&pictureid=62772

spinning the inlet out of the way (anyone tried this?)
and then painstakingly removing the 4 bolts that hold the turbo to the downpipes leading to (or from dependin on perspective) the turbine wheel and exhaust manifolds. The two bolts picture are the driver's side ones since they are easiest to see (as opposed to impossible without a mirror), and with the inlet out of the way the driver's side should be easy enough but the lower one on the passenger's side is a blind too tight nightmare. I'm not sure this is the best way to remove the turbo - but I looked from underneat at my drivers side manifold to turbo connection and its a bloody wreck. I don't think I'm gonna up that can of worms -
Will my plan to remove the turbo without tamering with the manifold connections work? Any other tips on how to approach replacing these glowplugs?
This turbo looks substantially different than the one pictured in my pitifully inadequate haynes manual. Even if these plugs were recent motorcraft with antisieze I think this job would have me cursing. I just don't see how a person gets at #5 without removing that blasted turbo




Any tips on how to remove some or all of the turbo system?

 

Ok, heres the update.

I was able to get at all the plugs after all I was lucky, I was dealing with removing Beru;s after all so it was a breeze. I thought I'd give a short description given the title of the thread, and maybe it will save somebody some head scratching.


Steps
1) I had to remove the air filter

2) Used compressed air to blow all the crap off from where the glow plugs meet the head. Apparently a mouse or two had called the area home at some point. You may not have to deal with that level of crap (literally) but you definitely don't want any dirt etc falling into the glow plug holes

3) I was VERY liberal with the liquid wrench. I created a pool of the stuff around the base of the plugs. I let them soak in that stuff for about a week.

4) I removed the electrical connections to the plugs. The bullet connectors fell to pieces when I did that. I knew I was gonna need a new harness, but thats a story for a different thread.

5) I used a 3/8" size semi-deep (sorta halfway between deep and regular) socket. Also a 3/8" swivel and 10" extension also 3/8". I used a piece of 5/16 fuel line to help "grab" the plugs after I had them 95% out. I went slow. The #2 plug was my first attempt cause it was easiest to get at. It was scary tight and badly corroded. Even with the liquid wrench I was worried about sheering the plug. So I'd loosen a quarter turn and tighten it back up an eighth of a turn, slowly i worked it out. Plugs 4,6,8,1,3 all came out easily for me. They are all easy to access and didn't require anything tricks or removal of anything additional. I was real careful to keep all my force rotational and not put diagonal force on the plugs, tread lightly with that swivel son! When I had the plugs loosened to the point where they would turn by hand, I mopped up the liquid wrench puddle, to prevent introducing a large amount of that to the combustion chambers.

6) Plugs 5 and 7 were a bit more of a challenge. I have the 93 with turbo, and the turbo seems like an after thought. It definitely reduces access to the plugs 5 and 7. I started on #5 by removing the fuel line stabilizer support and loosening the restraints holding a wiring harness in place (which had been blocking the plug).

I approached the plug from the right of the fuel lines (driver's side of the lines) and came at the plug from the front of the engine. I was able to slowly remove the plug.

Plug 7 was not bad once I figure out I could reach it by approaching from the driver's side by going under the turbo.



Of note, in order to get at 5-8 I had to basically lie on top of the engine, not real comfy but best way to see what I was doing.

7) Installing the plugs was a breeze. I made sure to use a light coat of graphite anti-seize (graphite conducts electricity well). I replaced with the Beru plugs - they are the only plugs that work.

 

I just ordered a full set of Motorcraft GPs from Autozone, $97. This will be my first time changing GPs, and I was wondering if there's a good guide (video or otherwise) on the net detailing the procedure?

I have the 93 non-turbo 7.3 liter.

 

Convert: Non turbo? you are laughing, my friend.

Roses: THANK YOU for your post.

 

Any why, exactly, would I be laughing?

 

sorry, didn't mean to sound flippant - just meant that without the turbo, glowplug replacement is so much easier. Just pull off your airbox and it's all pretty much clear to go. The thread above (as well as others on this site) give lots of tips and dos and don'ts.

 

Understood, and you are right - the replacement went rather easily.

Now I just gotta replace the injector cap that broke while getting my fuel filter loose.

 

Just be real careful putting the round airbox back on when you're done. It's got metal tabs that can bridge the contacts on the glow plug controller. That'll wake you up.

Not a problem if you disconnect the negative from both batteries before you do the job, though.