Finally got my mechanic to change my plugs at 98k. Went without a hitch. I've used Shell gas since day one and used Seafoam in the tank before every oil change. Don't know if that helped or not. My mechanic warmed the engine and then used an impact driver to remove them. No lubricant. He said the trick is once you start hitting them with the impact driver not to stop. He said to just bring them on out. No breaking and he said no issues at all. Too bad I'm now trading this truck because of bad VCT issues/phasers (code P0012 that will not go away despite changing the VCT solenoid on the passengers side). Been a good truck but I'm not dumping a couple grand down this trucks throat b/c of cam timing issues that require removing the valve covers and possibly the heads. Sorry Ford, I can't put up with any more crappy engineering designs. Good luck all and Merry Christmas.

 

There is solenoids on both sides. Change the other, and it will go away.

 

I would but the code reader keeps saying it's bank one, which should be the passengers side. I changed it the other day without any success. It would really tick me off if I paid another hundred bucks for nothing. I have however gotten use to no payments but I don't see good things for this motor after 100k. Too many common issues from sludge, fuel injectors, phasers, plugs, controllers, etc. for me. Too bad the reliability of this engine isn't what the 4.6 2v has been.

 

Well someone linked a link to the a site which states the same issue. It turned out to be the other side.

VCT Solenoid

This on a 5.4L 3V believe its an 05 or 04.

There are 3V out there running strong with 200-300k miles on them... I know people here tell you that the phasers making the noise like they do is an issue, but I know a guy with 230k and his has made the noise since 80k. Never had to do a tear down, and he pulls a heavy trailer all the time, since he owns his own contractor business. He usually tows a New Holland tractor, and a concrete trailer, and hes not even had to replace the transmission. As many people here that have had trouble, theres a small scale compared to how many of these trucks are on the road.

At worse you may have to spend 1200 if that depending who does the work to get the issue resolved, and the phasers themselves aren't hard to change out. You can rent the tools from your local autoparts store and do it yourself. I doubt they'd have to pull the heads off to fix it, if it was a mechanical issue. Its probably just a sensor... Keep in mind there is also a camshaft position sensor, and whose to say you didn't buy it and it been a faulty one. Things like this can happen.

I am just saying the truck is going to have some issues, any of them will. GM's 5.3L is far from perfect, and Toyota isn't going to have the body or suspension to be able to do what your current truck can, and Dodge, well they are ok, but I wouldn't wanna put one through to much stress...

 

'04-'05 5.4 3V motors were the first 2 years of these engines in the F150's, so they can be hit or miss w/ issues, but as a whole, they are good engines. An issue I was concerned of and it happened to my '05 5.4 was the passenger side exhaust manifold leaking. An expensive fix I didn't want to pay for. It was time for a new battery, front rotors and brakes, and a truck payment on top of that, so I decided it was time after 5 years and 57000 miles to trade her in. After 98,000 miles and more than 5 years, it may make good sense to move on up to another truck. Sounds like it doesn't owe you anything.

 

I have 164K on mine 5.4 with no issues.. Just change the oil every 5k..

 

Thanks guys for the advice. I think I will try to check into these sensors a little more. The engine runs very good despite the engine light being on. No knocking that I have heard is so common with bad phasers. My mechanic did say to try an engine cleaner in the oil to try and clean up the upper cylinder areas. I put a can of seafoam in the oil and the plan is to run the crap out of it on the interstate going to work for a few days and then change the oil. His comment on this was that the VCT parts depend on oil passages that can and will clog up if the oil isn't changed regularly (though I change it every 3-4k religiously with motorcraft oil and filters). I'll try this and see before loosing all hope in easy repairs. I didn't mean to jump off the topic of the plugs. I've been fearing this plug change thing for a long time. It was actually funny to hear him say it wasn't much to do. Didn't charge me but 75 bucks on top of that. I really think this plug sticking thing has many variables, ie. short trips, easy driving, crappy gas, even how they are removed.
Guess I got lucky. Oh, almost forgot. Went back with Motorcraft plugs, at his advice.

 

so to clear up your sludge issue, and to clean up the oil passages and such like that, i use a little trick ( i can already hear someone calling me an idiot) about every 30,000 mi, i drain the oil pan like a normal oil change, but i make sure its still hot so i its a bit thinner and get the max amount of oil out of the motor, then i seal her on up like normal , and dump tranny fluid in place of the oil i'd normally run. i let it run for about 15 minutes and drain it out completely, then i put some junk oil (cheap oil, but new) and run it for about an hour, then i drain it, change the filter and add my normal oil. you will see a lot of crap come out with the tranny fluid and the oil right after that to ensure you flushed the rest of the tranny fluid out. tranny fluid had a lot of detergents and conditioners that motor oil doesnt, so it help break alot of this sludge down. ive had a few cars over the yearsthat ive used this method with and have never had an issue, my '05 has 99,000 on it and runs like a mare. so give it a shot if you wanna prolong your ownership of your ford, but if not, no worries

 

You said your mechanic used a impact diver are you talking about one used to hit or with a compressor, just find it odd he would use that option.

 

There is a guy that specializes in these motors down here, and he uses an impact as well.. The hammer and vibration beats the carbon off the threads and pulls the plug out.... While when you go slow with a regular ratchet, and socket it breaks the plug off.

 

Ok thanks like I said found it odd that he would do it that does sound logical though.

 

Yeah this guy has never broken a single plug doing it this way.

Oh for the original poster, my truck has the rattle of the cam phasers and its still going strong... That could be a camshaft position sensor, or any sort of sensor would cause that. Sometimes the lights themselves malfunction. Honestly if the truck is running great, it has to be an electronic issue almost. Try pulling that VCT Solenoid you replaced, and re-seating it.

I've bought bad parts to... and if its not a motorcraft part the PCM may not be accepting it either. I've heard of a few having to have their PCM reflashed after replacing sensors by the dealer to make them compatible.

 

If you don't mind me asking where do you live

 

Henderson, KY

 

Oh ok I was hoping it was around here I'd have him change mine .