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looks like its a bit slow around here lately, so hows about a quick question. In the wiring diagram I have for my 63 it says that there is a resistor in parallel to the alt. bulb on the dash. Anyone know where this resistor is? I can not find it!!!!
Robert
There is only one resistor I know of and it is in the ignition system, not the charging system. The resistor is a wire running from the Ignition switch to the coil.
Yeah I know about the one in the ignition system, but this says there is one in the charging system, but i don't seem to be able to find it on the truck, do you have a wiring diagram you can look at? I don't have any way of posting it, I could fax you a copy if you have a fax.
Robert
The resistor is behind the gauge panel. It is about a 1'' long. The resistor is to keep from burning up your guages . For me I did away with it because I installed auto meter gauges and they don't require a resistor.
No, I still have the constant voltage regulator on the dash, it has nothing to do with the gen/alt light. And the wiring diagram says its a 15 ohm resistor.
Robert
Guys this is taken from the 1962-63 Ford truck 100-800 series shop manual supplement. Page 92;
The field relay serves to connect the battery and alternator output to the field circuit when the engine is running. When the ignition switch is closed, battery current flows through the charge indicator light and 15 ohm parallel resistor, and through the regulator to the field. This small current is enough to allow the alternator to start generating, and is necessary, as residual magnetism in the alternator is usually too small to start voltage build-up. The charge indicator light is shunted with a 15 ohm resistor to supply adequate starting field current. When the alternator builds up enough voltage to close the field relay contacts, full voltage is applied to the field and the charge indicator light goes out.
So I assume its needed, or it wouldn't have been put there. Although I've never seen one! Also my wiring diagram for my 69 Torino shows it also.
Robert
Ya know fellas I've been told about a resistor on the ignition and I've never been able to find it on my 65. This kinda sucks, because the truck just dies once in a great while going down the hiway. It is annoying, but you know it NEVER fails to start right back up within 5-10 minutes and run like a champ. It's got a 352 with some performance mods in it. The truck has done this since the day I bought it and I have checked, rechecked, changed and researched everything anyone has ever told me about. I have put a mallory dual point ignition in it, a new coil, a new carb, various other new parts, and even some new wiring in places, but I've never found anything that points to the problem, yet the problem persists. The only difference is, now, it doesn't scare me any more because as I said, it always starts right back up and runs great after a few minutes. If anyone has any ideas, give me a holler. thanx.
its been a very long time since i messed with these but i do not believe you will find what you are looking for. we are children of the electonics age and you are looking for a resistor that can be seen or touched. i believe you will find that the resistor is actually a piece or wire in the harness and you will have to unwrap the harness and trace the wires to find it. as for the other question about the ignition resistor it is also a piece of wire that is pink and is in the main harness. resistor wire has an unusual feel to it at the casing is more like rubber than regular wire because it has to handle the heat. hawkrod
Most alternators I have seen just need a trickle (provided through the "idiot light") to get the field excitation going.
However - the resistor is useful for the following reason: if the light burns out, and you don't notice that it doesn't come on when the ignition is first turned on, the alternator will not charge AND there will be no light to warn you! Often the first clue is everything dying (at night, in the rain, miles from home) or a no-crank at the most inconvenient times...
If it's not there you should consider adding one. I would disconnect the battery and remove the bulb, and measure across the pins of the light socket with an ohmmeter. If it's not 15 ohms or so (i.e. completely open) then put one on. Worst case power consumption (only with engine not running and the key on) would be about ((12^2)/15) = 9.6 watts.
Your local Rat Shack sells 10 ohm, 10 watt units which should be close enough. Once the alt. is charging the voltage on both ends of the resistor is close to zero so the value is not critical.