ground locations
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
All over the place!
Fender near battery.
Front header near radiator cap.
Intake.
Engine block.
behind right and left cowl panels. (panel next to driver and passengers feet)
Rear frame cross member.
Behind drivers side tail light.
That's a few I can think of off hand, is there one for something specific you wanted to know the location for?
Fender near battery.
Front header near radiator cap.
Intake.
Engine block.
behind right and left cowl panels. (panel next to driver and passengers feet)
Rear frame cross member.
Behind drivers side tail light.
That's a few I can think of off hand, is there one for something specific you wanted to know the location for?
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
i am haveing aproblem start truck up when itwarms up alittle it starts missing i have tryed every thing i know
replaced plugs wires cap roter coil then i discovered that while it is running ican unplug n0.8 injecter and plug back up it will run good until iswitch it off when i restart it it starts missing agai i just though it may be ground problem thanks
replaced plugs wires cap roter coil then i discovered that while it is running ican unplug n0.8 injecter and plug back up it will run good until iswitch it off when i restart it it starts missing agai i just though it may be ground problem thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
Likes: 13
From: Sand Lake, MI
i am haveing aproblem start truck up when itwarms up alittle it starts missing i have tryed every thing i know
replaced plugs wires cap roter coil then i discovered that while it is running ican unplug n0.8 injecter and plug back up it will run good until iswitch it off when i restart it it starts missing agai i just though it may be ground problem thanks
replaced plugs wires cap roter coil then i discovered that while it is running ican unplug n0.8 injecter and plug back up it will run good until iswitch it off when i restart it it starts missing agai i just though it may be ground problem thanks
Only #8 injector? or will doing the same with cylinders 1,4,5 have the same effect as #8?
If so, disconnecting/reconnecting all four give the same result, check pin 58 at the EEC connection, make sure its clean and making good connection.
If just 8 hows its injector connector look, clean and tight?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
That depends on how many O2 sensors you have. If you have two then right side. If you only have one then the whole ball of wax.
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New User
Joined: Jun 2018
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Ground issue
Good evening from Alabama,
Ii have a 1990 F150 with 92k on it. Several things are giving the sign of a bad ground. My door dinger is real phant, if I roll both widows up at the same time the engine shuts off. And finally if I run the fan motor on the truck for the AC/defrost the truck cuts in and out. Besides that she runs amazing.
Ii have a 1990 F150 with 92k on it. Several things are giving the sign of a bad ground. My door dinger is real phant, if I roll both widows up at the same time the engine shuts off. And finally if I run the fan motor on the truck for the AC/defrost the truck cuts in and out. Besides that she runs amazing.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Check the body ground. It is the large wire running from the NEG post of the battery to the radiator support.
I am not talking about the ground cable running to the engine block from the battery NEG post.
I am not talking about the ground cable running to the engine block from the battery NEG post.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,606
Likes: 1,175
From: San Jose, CA
But it wouldn't hurt to check that one too!
Even though it's probably fine because your engine is starting and running in the first place, it could still be slightly compromised (or just loose).
And while you're doing all this, what voltage are you seeing at the battery with the engine running? Hopefully you have even a cheap volt-meter and can verify. The dash volt-meter might be a relative tool, but if I remember the numbers are not exactly the most precise.
So a good digital readout meter is your friend. You want to see a steady 14-ish (usually around 14.5v or so) even at idle, and even if you turn on the lights, flashers, heater and all that stuff.
If you show less than 13.5 during any of that, your charging system is weak and not able to keep up. This could also cause the engine to die when you turn on an electrical load sometimes, but you'd normally also see that as a weak battery for starting. Engine should crank very slowly until it just won't anymore because the battery is dead.
In your case, it sounds more like what subford was saying about the body ground. Should also be one from the back of the engine to the firewall, so might as well check there while you're under the hood.
Good luck.
Paul
Even though it's probably fine because your engine is starting and running in the first place, it could still be slightly compromised (or just loose).
And while you're doing all this, what voltage are you seeing at the battery with the engine running? Hopefully you have even a cheap volt-meter and can verify. The dash volt-meter might be a relative tool, but if I remember the numbers are not exactly the most precise.
So a good digital readout meter is your friend. You want to see a steady 14-ish (usually around 14.5v or so) even at idle, and even if you turn on the lights, flashers, heater and all that stuff.
If you show less than 13.5 during any of that, your charging system is weak and not able to keep up. This could also cause the engine to die when you turn on an electrical load sometimes, but you'd normally also see that as a weak battery for starting. Engine should crank very slowly until it just won't anymore because the battery is dead.
In your case, it sounds more like what subford was saying about the body ground. Should also be one from the back of the engine to the firewall, so might as well check there while you're under the hood.
Good luck.
Paul
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