can someone tell me if the replacement floor pans LMC and NPD sell are big enough to go back to the rear seat bolts?

I was cleaning up rust and found a small bad patch that caused an annoying front bucket "rocking chair" syndrome... Not good, it seems to have a 4 inch crack that causes the seat to recline a bit when you sit in it.

 

NO. they will barely make it to the front seat bolts

 

Somehow I knew that was going to be the case.

F#(k


What would you do with that area? Patch under it with some thin gauge steel, or cut it out and just custom cut up a patch panel?

 

I personally would just weld thin steel in. I would do it under the whole section for strength purposes.

 

Get rid of the rot, it's like a cancer.

If it's really that bad you might look into a clean used cab or find a JY where they'll allow you to cut up a solid wreck.

 

Agreed Jet another cab or get a clean cab floor form a wreck. Cabs are the same till 96(minor differences)

 

I agree with Jim & Brad, although I have to say it took me about 4 years to come to that
realization.

I just recently (2 weeks ago?) got an entire cab from the JY, I figured that's lots easier
than trying to replace floors & already-Bondo'd rockers & corners.

There were two things holding me back... 1) Availability, rust-free cabs aren't real
common out here in Colorado; and, 2) I didn't want to deal with the bureaucracy of
VIN-switching & New Title Generation.

According to what I've read out here, I'd need to bring the titles to both vehicles to the
DMV and they'd issue me some sort of hybrid VIN-title combination. Not only that, but I
want the VIN associated with MY truck, not one from a truck that was built 3 years later.

But I have a friend who is doing a frame-off restoration of a 1970 Camaro, he gave me
the idea of cutting out the panel at the base of the windshield (or a portion of it) that has
the VIN attached and welding it to the replacement cab. After a little bit of grinding,
Bondo & paint, nobody would notice.

I understand the rivets that attach the VIN plate to that lower windshield support are
somehow special and are not easily obtainable by consumers (dunno if this is true, never
looked into it) and I don't want to do anything that would raise a cop's suspicions.

Officially, swapping VIN plates like that is illegal to do and and neither I nor FTE/IB are
endorsing doing it yourself, but there HAS to be a way to do it - say, if the roof is replaced
after a roll-over.

 

Grind the back of the rivits off and JB weld it on the other cab. as long as the heads are NOT tampered with, and you are not nervous, no problems. Also toss some dirt,paper ect in the area makes good camo! Now the cab jam sticker missing sometimes causes issues here in Fla for some reason...probly just the Cape Coral cops being jerks to pickup drivers.

Those rivits are special and Cops do look at them when they check the VIN. My friend did auto glass and many times he had to pull a windshield out(and yes most of not all broke!) for the cops to check the VIN. He gleamed some good info about that.

 

Drill the rivits out and put your vin tag in and take a sharpie and color the rivits black. DONE
I have seen more vin number swaps than i can remember. And who is looking at a 80s truck to see if a vin has been swaped. Its not like we are taking about a $200,000+ MASERATI that may be hot. The only difference to the rivits are they are black.

 

I just looked at mine there a little octogonal to. I agree more with the cuttin and weldin the panel around the plate.