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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

firewall dimensions please

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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 09:45 AM
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firewall dimensions please

I am replacing the firewall on my 55 F100. I welded a brace across the cab below the firewall before doing any cutting, but I believe the PO patched over a gap on the toe board without pulling the sides in to where they belong.
I bought the two piece firewall from Mid Fifties but I have a gap at the bottom of the firewall instead of an overlap. I have a slight overlap at the top of the firewall.
To make it short, what should the width of the firewall be at the point where the floor pan and toe board meet and maybe at the top of the tranny hole?
Hope I made myself clear. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 10:28 AM
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I don't know the dimensions but this old thread might help you. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...acement-2.html
 
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 10:45 AM
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Thanks Topmoo. I'll read thru the thread.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 01:07 PM
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I guess I'll square it up as best I can. Just thought someone might have easy access to a cab they could measure for me.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 07:41 PM
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Here is the drawing I provided to Direct Sheetmetal to fabricate the flat firewalls that I use in my project trucks...
 
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 07:53 PM
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Thanks CharlieLed,
 
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 07:55 PM
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Here's what it looks like when installed...
 
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 01:30 PM
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Charlie,
I have a template I made in the garage to do just this so I will use your dimensions to double check. I have been thinking to replace the whole piece under the cowl but in you rendering it looks like you leave a portion of it to overlap/or butt weld (I would guess that you overlap and glue as you have talked about that in the past) your one inch top lip onto a portion of the stock rolled portion, is that correct?

I want to replace it all is what I am thinking, but in looking at it again the other day Henry's boys where playing with the spot welder on that lip, there must be fifty spot welds along that curved lip. Well it is only time and probably a half dozen spot weld bits.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 03:36 PM
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Good eye Dave. This was my first install and what I ended up doing was fitting another section of metal under the cowl overhang to bring that section flush. In subsequent firewalls I had Direct Sheetmetal add that curved section to the firewall so that I did not have to add it later. As for removing spot welds...there is no reason to do that unless you are going for a concours restoration. A piece of 16 ga will fill that recess perfectly and leave the lower section of the cowl perfectly flat...the lip disappears. Here is the best pic I have on hand that shows the underside of the cowl lip.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 06:07 PM
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Guy,


Check your PM.
 
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