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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Short block?

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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 08:20 PM
  #16  
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Is this price list better? It doesnt include pistons or anything but just for machine work.


Whole motor

degrease disassembled engine..................50.00
Swap pistons on rods...6.00 x 8 =.............48.00

Block

oven clean and shot peen bare block.........75.00
Deck block (true up)...............................25.00
Align hone block...................................110.00
Bore & Hone each cylinder.....10.00 x 8 =...80.00

Crank

Clean/Shot Peen/Turn & Polish..................95.00

Heads

Clean head............................................20 .00
Vacuum test head..................................20.00

------------------------------------------------
total=............................................ ...$523.00
 
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Old Nov 27, 2010 | 10:09 PM
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should i go with Hypereutectic or Cast pistons? Im doin a budget style build with no intentions on going over 5500 rpms and around 300 hp
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 09:13 AM
  #18  
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I would probably go ahead and use the hyper's myself. You're looking at around $400 for a kit from Summit, which would have everything but the timing chain set.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 09:19 AM
  #19  
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I saw that thats y i was wondering to get those or not and if they are worth the money from what ive read online there isnt much difference unless you are going to the strip but for 409 bucks you rele cant go wrong but all said and done i have the total at about 2000 including the machine work, the rebuild kit, lifters, 1.7 rocker arms, long tubes, arp bolt kit, and a heavy duty timing set from cloyes. is that about average?
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 09:20 AM
  #20  
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o yea and a MSD 6A CD Ignition
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 09:24 AM
  #21  
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I've got the Speed-Pro hyper's in mine as well, BTW they are cast, the alloy is different, don't think they really make any more power, but they're not much more than a plain cast piston. Align honing probably isn't necessary, but gives the bearings a good surface to transfer heat. As far as decking, the later 5.8's from around the mid 70's are around .030" taller than the early ones, but if you zero deck, you may increase compression too much & end w/ detonation issues. A light skim to get a good surface won't hurt, & depending on the dish or valve relief in your piston & the cc's of your heads, you may be able to zero deck, which does help w/ quench.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 09:33 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 96ford250
I saw that thats y i was wondering to get those or not and if they are worth the money from what ive read online there isnt much difference unless you are going to the strip but for 409 bucks you rele cant go wrong but all said and done i have the total at about 2000 including the machine work, the rebuild kit, lifters, 1.7 rocker arms, long tubes, arp bolt kit, and a heavy duty timing set from cloyes. is that about average?
Thats not too bad. Considering the ARP kkit, MSD, etc you have all figured in there.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 09:39 AM
  #23  
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Ok good jus gotta wait on the tax return to get most of it or ill be waiting till next winter to get all the parts
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 09:41 AM
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I was also thinking about possibly going HEI they sell the at KMJ for around 60 bucks and i could loose the 6A ignition
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 10:37 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 96ford250
I was also thinking about possibly going HEI they sell the at KMJ for around 60 bucks and i could loose the 6A ignition

IMHO, I prefer the 6A, actually the Mallory 6AL is my personal choice. Built in Rev-limiter, and can tell the difference in the lower rpms with the multi spark
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 10:44 AM
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ill have to look into that thanks
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 12:11 PM
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Look at Northern Auto Parts: Home for rebuild kits. Way cheaper than summit.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 07:21 PM
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Ill have to check them out too
 
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