I'm rebuilding a 360 out of a '69 F-100, and would like some suggestions on how to keep the keepers intact. This is the 2nd 360/390 I've taken down (out of 5) that had a broken wrist pin keeper. The first was in my first Ford about 25 years ago, it was a short block that I had rebuilt by a reputable shop. That one broke 4 keepers in 2 cylinders within 10k miles. It ruined the block since they went all the way to the water jacket before I figured out what happened.
This one was pumping oil into #8 when I bought the truck and I was afraid it was the same thing. When I striped the block down last night - sure enough #8 had broken the keeper on one side and scored the block enough to need a sleeve (not all the way to the jacket though).
This is just a project truck, I'm building it back to a 390. It's a short bed 4x4 and I want to put on a small 4bbl with an "RV" type cam. It has a 4 speed granny box and will never see 4,000 rpm but I want to make it last another 35 years (too bad I won't).

So, first question: How do I keep the keepers in?

Second, should I:
1) Put a sleeve in this block (assuming everything else is OK)
2) Bore out a 352 block that I can get for a six-pack
3) Find a rebuildable block already 360/390 bore

Thanks

By the way I love this site except for all the links to places where I spend "all the groceries and half the rent"

 

mblack again, sorry, ignore option #2, I didn't read the previous post on boring a 352

 

The two sides on the keepers are different. One side has a slight rounding off to it and the other has a sharp corner. The side with the sharp corner needs to go owards the outside of the piston or it is likely to jump out.

 

Also, when installing squeeze them just enough to fit into the hole. Over-squeezing will cause them to fit loose.

Barry

 

Mblack, options one and two are both fine, especially #2. If you can get a block for a 6 pack, do it. When you get to the pin locks, have you considered using spiralox instead ? They are a hassle to remove and install, but I can assure you they will not come out unintentionally. DF

 

1. Make sure the groove in the piston is square, clean, and not to0 big/small/wide/narrow or flogged out.

2. use spiroloks instead

3. make sure piston pin is not to long not to short

4. make sure the rod is "straight" and aligned

5. use circlips only once

6. place eyes up

7. sharp edge out

 

Thanks for the input. I checked out the Spiralox web-site and they seem to be the better mousetrap, just what I was hoping you guys would come up with.
Since I'll be using new rods / pistons to make this a 390 (just stock replacements - nothing fancy) should I assume every thing is straight and tight? How do I check whether the rods are straight?

Thanks
MB

 

Any engine machine shop should have the jig to check rod alignment(3 axis).

At home it might be a challenge.
If you have theold pistons the maybe tell tale wear patterns on the skirt.