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New Voltage regulator causing nightmares

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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 06:00 PM
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New Voltage regulator causing nightmares

Hey guys, so im havin an issue with wiring on my truck. Was hoping a couple of you guys might be able shed some light on the situation. The truck is a 79 f-350 with a 89 7.3 IDI. Here is a link to the thread on the IDI diesel section. Diesel thread
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 07:22 PM
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Are you ruinning the original alternator to the truck (1G) or the alternator with the engine (2G)?

Josh
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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Its the diesel alternator, '89 7.3 F-250 and what is the difference? in the other thread a guy mentioned 1G or 3G and tbh i have no idea what that specifically refers to.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 11:11 PM
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The 1 stands for generation, so 1G is First Gen and so forth... Those diesels came with the 2G which is notorious for either not working, or working so well they start fires.

I would honestly consider a 3G upgrade, super simple and gobs of amps. There are several write-ups here in the 73-79 forum regarding the swap.

Josh
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 11:36 PM
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Oh ok gotcha... well so says dude at the alternator, generator and starter rebuilding shop my alt. is fine. So im assuming the 3G would be the one in my dads 92 with the integrated voltage regulator? I considered grabbing one off my buddies parts truck... and might yet, along with the other serpentine stuff. How would the 3G compare with the GM 1 wire? alot of guys around here are telling me thats the only way to go, but i really dont want to get into bracket building and more wiring.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 12:01 AM
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3G bolts right in and is basically a 2 wire hook-up ( the third just loops back to +)

I'm not sure, but I don't think the 2g alt will work with a 1g regulator if that's what I am assuming your doing.

Josh
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 01:16 AM
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The guy at the shop that tested my old altenator and regulator said there is only 1 regulator. The 3G unit does come from say a 92 IDI? If so i have one that i can maybe swap in, assuming that my V-belt pully will go on it as it had a serpentine pully.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 11:06 AM
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The 3G alternator is supposed to be a good upgrade over the 2G because they tend to have problems. However, consider your gauges. If your truck has an ammeter it is possible that when you get done with the "upgrade" that your ammeter will not do anything because you have wired it differently.

This may not matter to you, and there most certainly has to be a way to wire it so that the ammeter DOES work. Just throwing it out there as an FYI. Personally I hate having a "dead" gauge, it just looks extremely ghetto.

You mentioned a 1 wire alternator. Personally I would also avoid these like the plague. The ONLY benefit of a one wire alternator is that it only takes one wire to hook it up. Beyond that they are very dumb battery chargers and not very good ones at that.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 12:14 PM
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I was of the same opinion on the 1 wires thanks. As far as the gauge, and yes its the gauge not the idiot light. I definately want it to work. Sadly im pretty sure that the gauge itself is bad, but i would still like it hooked up corrrectly, random disconnected wires underhoood = more ghetto than a non operational Alt. gauge imo.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 12:28 PM
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Yeah I agree that things looking bad, like disconnected wires is worse than the non functional gauge, but who knows, you might find that one of those disconnected wires is why the gauge doesn't work.

I would suggest trying to track down all of those wires and get it all cleaned up before you consider swapping anything. Yeah it's a pain in the rear, but if you can get all the wiring cleaned up and organized you will have one less headache all along the way.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 12:42 PM
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No no no, you misunderstand me lol... The only disconnected wire i have right now IS the Alt. gauge because when i swapped the motor in it was the one thing i couldnt figure out. To be honest at the time i couldnt care less about the Alt. gauge, i needed my truck. Since then ive went back and cleaned stuff up and what not, but still dont know where my gauge needs to tie in. Also was looking on the net for wiring pics and what not. They all seem to have the Light, or no mention of gauge or light what gives?
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 12:58 PM
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Lol, sorry. Typically when engine swaps are involved you end up with a mess of disconnected junk and nobody knows what does what. It's sad that it is the exception rather than the rule that something actually be done correctly.

As far as the wiring goes, one end of the gauge wire ends at the starter solenoid and the other end ties in somewhere along the length of the charging wire so that it essentially parallels the main charging wire.

I can e-mail you that section of the wiring diagram if you think it would help you any.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 01:25 PM
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If you dont mind, might help me out a bit, i appreciate the help. Ya when i was doing this i went poked around the JY and snagged a bunch of extra factory connections, i may have more plugs now, but its cleaner, and its not all just one giant ratnest of splices where you cant unplug anything. If i actually get it runnin i may post a pic. I do need some more harness wrap tho.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 06:11 PM
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Well that went really well, i realized i forgot to unplug the regulator to be on the safe side and i went out to do so. It had already cought on fire, melted a bunch of wires and totally made a big mess.... my truck stinks to boot.. Im just glad the whole thing didnt burn down i guess. Looks like i will end up doing the 3G upgrade now. as im sick of messing with the stupid thing and the alternator is only 17-23 bucks at the pick and pull.
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 06:39 PM
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3G set-up.



What you get to remove...



Wiring Diagram...



Josh
 
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