When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The details - '86 Bronco, 300 w/an Offy C, Edelbrock 500, EFI manifolds, converted to DSII. It starts and idles fine with 20" of vacuum, but just doesn't drive all that well - boggy and hesitates when I mash the gas.
I went to check the timing and it's showing to be way retarded - at idle the timing mark shows back at ~0 degrees. I shut her down and turned the engine by hand until the distributor rotor is pointed at the #1 terminal and the timing mark is sitting at ~12 BTDC.
So I'm thinking the dizzy is off a tooth and needs to be reinstalled one tooth clockwise (advanced). What do y'all think?
Well, turning the rotor clockwise one tooth made things much better. 22+" vacuum now and much better throttle response. Idling way too high now, though, even with the idle screw backed all the way out. Reckon I'll pull the carb tomorrow and make sure none of the linkages are binding...
It's on the timed port, I uncap the other to hook up the vacuum gauge.
I had an Edelbrock 600 on a SBF and went crazy trying to get the idle down where it needed to be. Finally pulled the carb and the linkage on the choke side was binding, once I straighten it the throttle plates would shut completely and the idle screw would take it down until it choked. Hopefully that's the case with this one too.
If i can get the idle down I'll try dialing in a few more degrees of timing and it should be golden.
This is a quick writeup I did in another post in how to reset your distributor from zero. It'd eliminate the possibility your distributor is off a tooth.
Another way you can time the engine (which is usually how I do it after work on the ignition), is reset it. Bring the #1 cylinder to top dead center, and be sure it's on the compression stroke (by feeling pressure build up with your finger in the spark plug hole.)
Look at the timing marks on the front of the engine, and look to see if the mark on the harmonic balancer is pointed directly at 0. (This is just to double check your harmonic balancer is on straight.) After you've confirmed this, move the crank shaft until the timing mark points at the timing you want your engine to be at.
Then, install the distributor so that the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark plug wire. Do this without turning then engine. You may need to try a couple times until you get the distributor to go in, or try a couple different angles on the distributor. It doesn't matter at all which way it goes in, as long as the vacuum advance is accessible, and the rotor is pointed at #1.
Look inside the distributor at the stator (which is the six pronged star shaped part), remove the rotor if it's on, and rotate the distributor slowly and slightly until the arm on the stator if PERFECTLY lined up between the two alignment lines on the magnetic pickup. It's easy to see and do.
Tighten it down, put the arm back on, and put the cap back on. Be sure your spark plug wires are on correctly. Your timing should be perfect without any tools necessary.
Well, I didn't want to go through the rigmarole of pulling all the spark plugs and rotating the crank by hand to find TDC. But then decided that much like taking off and nuking the entire site from orbit, it's the only way to be sure. Both the dizzy and my timing mark are spot on relative to TDC, so it was definitely off a tooth before.
And I figured out the idle speed was the choke not opening fully and hanging the fast idle screw on the cam. Should have caught that but I hate taking the breather off with the engine running when leaves are falling like they are right now...
With the choke open she's purring like a kitten at 600 rpm and timing @ ~14 BTDC.
Geez Louise, it never ends. Pulled the carb so I could loosen the screws on the choke, slapped it back on and fired the truck up. After idling about 5 minutes I go to adjust the choke and it's still cool to the touch- not heating. So I break out the multimeter and the choke wire is reading less than .5 volts. Odd, I think to myself, since I replaced the alternator a week ago. Check voltage at the battery and it's only ~12.5 volts with the engine running.
So I'll be spending the first day of my week off tomorrow a) checking the fuse link/harness to make sire it's not the problem, then b) re-removing the alternator to have it checked/replaced. The old alternator burned up - and by burned up I mean the harness, pigtails, and plugs on the alternator were melted/cooked. Had to rewire the harness with new pigtails, etc. I did it according the diagram in the manual, so I don't think the problem is there...but I guess something made it burn up in the first place and I'd better track it down.
Well, took the alternator back to NAPA to have it tested and it's crapped out. One of the guys up there - since he's a sport and because I'm in there all the time - offered to upgrade me to their premium rebuilt at no additional cost. Love NAPA and the folks up there. They totally treat me right.