Instrument cluster swap help...
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From: Wagener, SC
Instrument cluster swap help...
Ok, I did the searches, and I've read dozens of threads, but I didn't see an answer to my situation.
I have a gauge style cluster, but with no tach. Today, I pulled a cluster with tach out of an '84 XLT.
Problem is, wiring under the hood is NOT stock. I'm running an after-market HEI dist.
My distributor had a tach port, so what do I need to do to wire up this new cluster to work? Do I fold back the the circuit traces that go to the tach and just hard wire it?
I have a gauge style cluster, but with no tach. Today, I pulled a cluster with tach out of an '84 XLT.
Problem is, wiring under the hood is NOT stock. I'm running an after-market HEI dist.
My distributor had a tach port, so what do I need to do to wire up this new cluster to work? Do I fold back the the circuit traces that go to the tach and just hard wire it?
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Washington
There is a connector near the old DS2 module that you can use to feed the tach signal (from the tach port) to the inst cluster. It will have a green wire and a black wire, let me know it you find it.
Jim
Jim
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From: Wagener, SC
Hi Jim,
Yes, right next to the module, with all the other connectors, is one with just a green wire and a black wire. One side goes to the module, and the other side leads off towards the firewall. Those are the only two wires in that connector. Is this the one you are referring to?
Yes, right next to the module, with all the other connectors, is one with just a green wire and a black wire. One side goes to the module, and the other side leads off towards the firewall. Those are the only two wires in that connector. Is this the one you are referring to?
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,566
Likes: 207
From: Washington
Hi Jim,
Yes, right next to the module, with all the other connectors, is one with just a green wire and a black wire. One side goes to the module, and the other side leads off towards the firewall. Those are the only two wires in that connector. Is this the one you are referring to?
Yes, right next to the module, with all the other connectors, is one with just a green wire and a black wire. One side goes to the module, and the other side leads off towards the firewall. Those are the only two wires in that connector. Is this the one you are referring to?
Is the DS2 module still in the truck or has it been removed, doesn't matter, just curious.
Jim
Last edited by JimsRebel; Nov 19, 2010 at 11:41 AM. Reason: spelling errors.... doesn't
Thread Starter
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From: Wagener, SC
Yes that is the correct connector, it feeds the tach. Disconnect the connector, feed the green wire with the tach signal and ground the black wire if you have a V8 engine. For now just stuff the wires in the connector holes to see if it works.
Is the DS2 module still in the truck or has it been removed, does matter, just curious.
Jim
Is the DS2 module still in the truck or has it been removed, does matter, just curious.
Jim
But Yup, the module is still there. I'm still trying to figure out what can be removed on that side fender well. The oil pressure and water temp gauges still go through that wire cluster, and I haven't had the heart to start unraveling all those wires. I will shortly though....that's now on my short list of things to do asap.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,566
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From: Washington
(does matter, or doesn't matter?? Just want to be clear...)
But Yup, the module is still there. I'm still trying to figure out what can be removed on that side fender well. The oil pressure and water temp gauges still go through that wire cluster, and I haven't had the heart to start unraveling all those wires. I will shortly though....that's now on my short list of things to do asap.
But Yup, the module is still there. I'm still trying to figure out what can be removed on that side fender well. The oil pressure and water temp gauges still go through that wire cluster, and I haven't had the heart to start unraveling all those wires. I will shortly though....that's now on my short list of things to do asap.
Sorry, should have said... doesn't matter.... I have poor typing skills.
The 4 wire plug needs to stay as it has the oil/water gauges signal and also the power to the coil/ HEI dist if you used the stock source for power.
You can remove and sell the DS2 module, if it is a good quality name brand module.
Jim
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From: Wagener, SC
Thanks. I'll post a pic when I get the new cluster installed. Should be a no-brainer, right? (Probably shouldn't of said that....now I'm sure to have issues)
Oh, would you recommend that I go ahead and take the tach apart and clean the yellow/brown glue stuff out, that I read about in another thread?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...dywhompus.html
Oh, would you recommend that I go ahead and take the tach apart and clean the yellow/brown glue stuff out, that I read about in another thread?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...dywhompus.html
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,566
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From: Washington
Thanks. I'll post a pic when I get the new cluster installed. Should be a no-brainer, right? (Probably shouldn't of said that....now I'm sure to have issues)
Oh, would you recommend that I go ahead and take the tach apart and clean the yellow/brown glue stuff out, that I read about in another thread?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...dywhompus.html
Oh, would you recommend that I go ahead and take the tach apart and clean the yellow/brown glue stuff out, that I read about in another thread?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...dywhompus.html
<O
</OSpeaking of working, have you tested the tach yet, I would use jumper wires on the 4 post to test it before you install it, I have found bad ones at the junk yard.
<O
</OIf you have an AUTO trans, be real careful of the small white plastic cable on the PNRD21 indicator.
Jim
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From: Wagener, SC
Doing the cleaning thing is major surgery and well sometime the patient dies during surgery… personally I don’t take something apart to fix it if it already works as is.
<o></o>
Speaking of working, have you tested the tach yet, I would use jumper wires on the 4 post to test it before you install it, I have found bad ones at the junk yard.
<o></o>
If you have an AUTO trans, be real careful of the small white plastic cable on the PNRD21 indicator.
Jim
<o>
</o>Speaking of working, have you tested the tach yet, I would use jumper wires on the 4 post to test it before you install it, I have found bad ones at the junk yard.
<o>
</o>If you have an AUTO trans, be real careful of the small white plastic cable on the PNRD21 indicator.
Jim
To test the tach, do I have to hook up all the posts on the back? Otherwords, on the back of the tach it goes like this?
"1" to tach signal
"8 & G" both to ground
"B" to 12v
I have to do 'em all for a good test?
Oh, and the shift selector little white cable, well, on my truck it's broken in two places and doesn't work now. When I took this cluster, I was VERY careful going in, but it was already broken in one place. I was wondering if I carefully hold the broken sheath together and hot-glue it to hold it together and make it rigid, it could work? I know I need to be careful not to let any hot-glue seep into the cable, but just on the outside chance...
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Washington
Hi Jim,
To test the tach, do I have to hook up all the posts on the back? Otherwords, on the back of the tach it goes like this?
"1" to tach signal
"8 & G" both to ground
"B" to 12v
I have to do 'em all for a good test?
Oh, and the shift selector little white cable, well, on my truck it's broken in two places and doesn't work now. When I took this cluster, I was VERY careful going in, but it was already broken in one place. I was wondering if I carefully hold the broken sheath together and hot-glue it to hold it together and make it rigid, it could work? I know I need to be careful not to let any hot-glue seep into the cable, but just on the outside chance...
To test the tach, do I have to hook up all the posts on the back? Otherwords, on the back of the tach it goes like this?
"1" to tach signal
"8 & G" both to ground
"B" to 12v
I have to do 'em all for a good test?
Oh, and the shift selector little white cable, well, on my truck it's broken in two places and doesn't work now. When I took this cluster, I was VERY careful going in, but it was already broken in one place. I was wondering if I carefully hold the broken sheath together and hot-glue it to hold it together and make it rigid, it could work? I know I need to be careful not to let any hot-glue seep into the cable, but just on the outside chance...
I would try heat shrink tubing on the outside. If the glue gets on the cable... well that would be bad...
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
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From: Lost
Hard as it is to believe, my cable is blessed with the broken housing. The indicator actually works in spite of this. The replacement cluster had the end broke off the cable at the column, so I swapped to the original broken cable. I figured the worst that could happen, is the indicator not work, and since the old one had been stuck at "R" for 13 years, it wouldn't have really bothered me........
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From: Wagener, SC
You know, duct tape is a wonderful product. I'll try to get the cable positioned just right, and then DT it to the column.
That's how the speedo cable was connected to the donor cluster :-)
Which reminds me, just exactly how do you remove the speedo cable retainer clip? I didn't have the luxury of removing it from the donor cluster, and I don't want to break mine if I don't do it right.
That's how the speedo cable was connected to the donor cluster :-)
Which reminds me, just exactly how do you remove the speedo cable retainer clip? I didn't have the luxury of removing it from the donor cluster, and I don't want to break mine if I don't do it right.