Instrument cluster swap help...
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,271
Likes: 2
From: Mexia, TX
Not to sound critical, but why didn't you just swap over the circuit film? 
So long as both are for the full gauge cluster and not idiot lights, it would be a direct swap, and you'd only need to wire up the tach. Just curious.
So long as both are for the full gauge cluster and not idiot lights, it would be a direct swap, and you'd only need to wire up the tach. Just curious.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Wagener, SC
I thought about that, but I decided to take the opportunity to completely clean the whole assembly during the swap-over, but most importantly I didn't want to take the chance of damaging the film by moving it.
Really, I just wanted to leave it where it was, and move the gauges I need instead. I was informed in another thread, and I quote "YOUR SPRINGS ARE SHOT", so I would rather spend my money there, than spending a hundred on something that works now...as long as I don't go screwing it up.
My wife hates paying for my screw-ups.
Really, I just wanted to leave it where it was, and move the gauges I need instead. I was informed in another thread, and I quote "YOUR SPRINGS ARE SHOT", so I would rather spend my money there, than spending a hundred on something that works now...as long as I don't go screwing it up.
My wife hates paying for my screw-ups.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Wagener, SC
Mission accomplished. Everything works, all connections done "right". No questionable rigging. I may even wind up with my shift indicator working...
You know, I just want to take a moment to thank all of you that offered suggestions in this rather long thread. Really...thanks.
So, was this little project an easy "in and out"? Nope. Was it worth it? YOU BET!
You know, I just want to take a moment to thank all of you that offered suggestions in this rather long thread. Really...thanks.
So, was this little project an easy "in and out"? Nope. Was it worth it? YOU BET!
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Most of these swaps are a lot easier than yours turned out to be. It looks good in there to have full gauges than a blank in the middle doesn't it? 
Does the ammeter gauge work though? It looks a little off from the picture.
Does the ammeter gauge work though? It looks a little off from the picture.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Wagener, SC
Yea, the dash looks "complete" now.
The ammeter works, but the needle is just off of "0". The ammeter on the other cluster was just as far off, but in the discharge direction. I assume there is a zeroing screw on the backside of the gauge, but those needles are SOOO fragile, I didn't want to take the chance of bending it by trying to take the gauge out to adjust it.
The ammeter works, but the needle is just off of "0". The ammeter on the other cluster was just as far off, but in the discharge direction. I assume there is a zeroing screw on the backside of the gauge, but those needles are SOOO fragile, I didn't want to take the chance of bending it by trying to take the gauge out to adjust it.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
As I seem to recall, during normal operation when everything is working correctly, they are
pretty much always just to the right of the center tick mark, even with the ignition shut off.
The only time it'll hang to the left is when the charging system isn't doing its job.
My ammeter seems to work pretty well, I've seen it deflect around one half of the way to
the right after starting it up with a somewhat-discharged battery.
pretty much always just to the right of the center tick mark, even with the ignition shut off.
The only time it'll hang to the left is when the charging system isn't doing its job.
My ammeter seems to work pretty well, I've seen it deflect around one half of the way to
the right after starting it up with a somewhat-discharged battery.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
With the engine off, it should be straight up and down, or to the left toward discharge. It should not read charge with the engine not running.
With the engine running, fully charged battery, it should be just to the right of the center mark.
To recenter the gauge, you will have to bend the needle. Being very carefull this can be done with needle nose pliers, or tweezers.
While I was in there I would repaint the needles with flourecent orange, or flourecent red paint as well.
But these are only suggestions....
With the engine running, fully charged battery, it should be just to the right of the center mark.
To recenter the gauge, you will have to bend the needle. Being very carefull this can be done with needle nose pliers, or tweezers.
While I was in there I would repaint the needles with flourecent orange, or flourecent red paint as well.
But these are only suggestions....
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Howd you pull your headlight and wiper ***** Im just about to start the same project
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Wagener, SC
I understand the factory ***** are a BEAR to remove. Maybe someone else watching this thread can help you with that??
Good luck with your project. I hope something here has helped you with it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,569
Likes: 207
From: Washington
Here is a thread with good info and some pictures
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...b-removal.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...b-removal.html
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,271
Likes: 2
From: Mexia, TX
You can get an angled pick tool (looks like a dentist's pick), stick the pointed end into the back of each **** and move the spring-metal retainer clip til the wiper **** comes off. You'll be working blind so be patient.
To remove the headlight switch ****, you can reach up under the dash and feel around for the headlight switch. On the bottom there should be a plastic or metal button; press that while pulling on the headlight switch **** and the **** and shaft should come out as an assembly.
To remove the headlight switch ****, you can reach up under the dash and feel around for the headlight switch. On the bottom there should be a plastic or metal button; press that while pulling on the headlight switch **** and the **** and shaft should come out as an assembly.